I have to replace the driver's door seal on my '80 300SD. I have the new seal but when I tried to remove the old seal from the top of the door, it started to tear apart. Then I thought: If the old one is in so tight, how will I get the new seal back in?

Has anyone done this? Any hints to make it easier to do?

P E H

Its not much fun. Typically I think you start at the upper back corner, the only one that is a 90 degree angle. Start putting in the seal from there across the top of the door. You have to set in the lower side of the seal into the door groove, and then press in the upper side with a tool. This can be your fingers, or a blunt wood ruler or some such flat edge. You compress the seal enough to push it fully into the groove.

I also used the trim sealant in a tube.

My results were pretty good. The door seals completely and doesn't leak any air or water. The only difference I notice is that the door must be firmly slammed to close it. Something to do with the seal installation along the door hinge surface - it sits higher because its new, or because I did something wrong in the installation. I can't see anything I did wrong though.

Not easy, but I'm enjoying the results a lot on that car.

Ken300D

__________________
--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Ken,

At the front of the door there is a strip that looks like it is secured by some "push in pins" that holds the seal in place. Do I just pry the strip out to remove the old seal and does the strip stay in place when I put it back in? Or do I have to get some "push in pins"?

Thanks for your help.

P E H

I can only answer for a 123, but yes, a strip of aluminum held in by several push pins. Remove gingerly - you don't want to break the pins, although I think you can get them from ********az.

I didn't find the job too difficult, more tedious. Use a good trim adhesive, like 3M - it's black. On a 123 there is only a partial section that you need trim adhesive for, the rest of the seal is held in a channel or by the peice of aluminum with the push pins.

I too have to shut the doors firmly - I assume it's due to new rubber that sits higher. Good seal all around. A good project that's not too expensive and yields great results if your current seals are suspect.

__________________
'85 300D - 206K (sold)
'81 240D - 149K (sold)
'03 Jetta TDI - (sold)
'79 300D - (sold)

You're probably going to break those old plastic push pins that hold the strip. I found replacements at Tractor Supply. They are not particularly unique. Once you get the first one out you can take it to compare with generic replacement parts.

I decided to use the trim seal adhesive all the way around the seal. I felt it would keep water out better. But I can see how it is not required anywhere except the front hinge area. The door I resealed also required POR-15 along the bottom seal groove because water had collected there and caused rust. This is a typical rust location for any door that has a leaky seal.

Ken300D

__________________
--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

"You're probably going to break those old plastic push pins that hold the strip. I found replacements at Tractor Supply. They are not particularly unique. Once you get the first one out you can take it to compare with generic replacement parts."

You know, come to think of it, I did order the pins when I ordered the door seals. You're right, most of them probably can't be re-used.

They are not as heavy duty as say, the door panel pins are. I pulled all 4 of my door panels to convert from auto to manual windows and didn't break a single push pin.

__________________
'85 300D - 206K (sold)
'81 240D - 149K (sold)
'03 Jetta TDI - (sold)
'79 300D - (sold)

Guys if you get tired of slamming the door you can achieve gentle thunk-like closing action by adjusting the striker plate. Did this to the driver's door and it closes nicely. Trouble is getting the allen screws loose without stripping them. May need a hammer drill and allen bit for that one, and a lot of PB. Slamming might cause broken windows which is why it may be valuable to not have to slam the door anymore.
What's this about the bottom seal on the doors causing rust? I get a little water coming out of the inside front of the rear doors when I first open them after a rain.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

Anytime you're working rubber into tight places, clean that groove out real good, then use a spray bottle with water and a bit of dish washing soap and lube it up a bit....even Windex or glass cleaner will help it slip into place.

__________________
Mark
1983 300TD Wagon
Even a broken watch is right twice a day

PE -

Shoot me a private message, I have one of those yellow fog light things for you.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I am doing this soon on the fronts. I have the OE seals ready to rock.

How do I get the seal around the door check? Do I remove it? I really dont want to cut it :-)

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

yes...pull pin out of door check and it'll also make pulling the push pins out easier. I used needle nose pliers to get the pins out after ripping out old seal. If you don't squeeze them correctly you'll do needless struggling to get them out.

I believe FSM says (and I definitely do) to use a silicone (or some type of MB specific lubricant) spray to initially lubricate the seal. I usually spray it on a shop towel and then wipe it on to the seal, then install. This makes the job infinitely easier and conditions the rubber.

it's not that tough of a job and shouldn't take more than 1 hour for remove and install...when you get good no more than 30 minutes .

__________________
1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

i'm having a very difficult time removing the door check pin off my 87 300DT. the pin had what looked like a snap ring on the bottom of the pin, which i found odd. also, the pin is not just pin. it looks like a...ummm...a male appendage. thus, it is impossibly to hammer this pin upwards like any other home or auto door check pin. is this a stock pin? and if so, how do i get this bastige off?

where can i buy aftermarket door seals/weatherstrip for mercedes w 124 and what is the price? this is for my car in india. genuine is quite expensive
kumar
white69@rediffmail.com

I know All Parst Express and Fast Lane, the buy parts tab at the top of the page doesn`t sell out of country. there may be other on line parts suppliers that will.
Or try E-bay http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=mercedes+w124+door+seals&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Just did this on my driver's side to see how it would go. I think it seems to be common that it is now *hard* to close the door. It closes and it seals, but it is hard to close.

I picked up some 3M gasket seal adhesive for the front hinge area, and it ain't sticking. Probably epoxy would kill the rubber.

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com