83 240D Trouble engaging manual transmission
 

OK, I'm a total newbie, and I couldn't find any previous posts that address my problem...

I have an 83 240D with a manual transmission. The clutch appears to be functioning (i.e. it feels 'normal' when I depress it), but I can't get the car to engage in any gear. It wasn't as if this was a worsening issue - it just stopped working. It's not an emergency situation, as the car is sitting in my garage, but it obviously isn't driveable.

Based on this description, does anyone have a potential diagnosis, or can anyone provide suggestions for me to hone my search keywords?

Any help is appreciated!

You've got some rubber bushings in the transmission linkage right under the shift lever that sometimes will deteriorate to the point where you can't shift anymore. Very cheap and easy fix.

Len

sokoloff,

Will the transmission go into any gears with the engine not running?

P E H

Does it grind when you try to shift?

IF the car is running, it does grind if I try to put it in gear. As far as shifting freely when the car is not running, I think it does shift (although it's a little difficult). I'm at work, but will verify that when I get home.

How many miles on your car ?
Has the clutch ever been replaced ?
Have you checked the level of brake fluid or hydraulic clutch fluid ?
Have you changed out or checked the level of the transmission fluid ?

There is a return spring on the clutch that makes it feel like the clutch is still "working". However, what has probably happened to you is a slow leak of hydraulic fluid has progress far enough to prevent the hydraulic clutch from working. Along with that, you may have let the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir get below the level of the supply line to the clutch system.

So, what you need to do to get going again is bleed the hydraulic clutch system and keep the brake fluid topped off. If it continues to slowly go down, you have a leak in the hydraulic clutch system and will eventually need to replace or rebuild the two cylinders.

This is one problem that might be causing your issue - and I would say it is the most likely.

Ken300D

How long has the car been sitting?
 

if exposed to the elements for much time, the flywheel can develop rust and bind to the surface of the disk. if you find the fluid levels to be correct, and verify that the slave is actuating the Pressure plate, try starting the car in first gear, then drive around a little while with your foot on the clutch pedal, if it is rust, it will eventually break free.
John

Hmmm, the car was sitting for over a year (although it did start right up with a recharged battery). I will first verify the fluid levels as suggested, and (if they're OK), I'll try starting in 1st gear.

Also, to answer leathermang's questions, the car has about 220K miles, and as far as I know, is original. I bought the car 3 years ago with the intent of making it somewhat of a daily driver (as I've always loved 123s) but got side tracked with a house restoration. Now that the house is more or less done, it's time to refocus on the car...

Oh, if the car's been sitting that long it probably is the frozen plate - had that happen on mine with less time sitting.

Push the clutch in, shift into first and then crank the starter. Hopefully it will break loose for you easily. Reverse is also an option if forward would take you into the house or another car...... :)

Ken300D

If it was me I'd bleed the clutch hydraulics first before jumping to any wild conclusions. Could even be something really simple like the slave cylinder.

Another thing to check is the clutch master cylinder, pull the fwd end of the drivers side "foot well"carpet down and reach up and find the steel line coming down from the clutch master cyl...is it wet?, brake fluid under the carpet?

Brian,

If the car is in gear, will the engine run with out the car moving?

If the engine runs with out moving the car, the clutch plate is not frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate.

So then its probably low fluid in the clutch reservoir, air in the line/cylinder or a leaking slave or master cylinder not releasing the pressure plate enough. This is a common problem on older MB. The bores of the cylinders get pitted from rust and leak fluid. Hint to MB quality engineers: Use a brass or stainless steel sleeve in the cylinder bores.

U can rebuild either of these cylinders with a repair kit and cylinder hone.

Check back for bleeding info if U have to rebuild the cylinders.

P E H

i am betting on the empty brake fluid res.

tom w

Success!! After verifying that the fluids were topped off, I decided to just start it in 1st gear, as suggested, and let her go...After driving in 1st gear to a school parking lot down the street, she finally broke free, and now runs -- and shifts -- as good as ever!

Thanks to vstech, Ken300D and everyone else for the advice.