Just get the console cover (plastic) off the switch assembly. Then grip the switch you want and pull. The switches have prong-type connectors that fit into the switch assembly. On my W124, there was no "securing metal prongs" as 83mercedes describes for the W123 and W126.

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'87 300E - 140K

Are there bulbs to replace in the W123 switches? Thanks.

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

Yes, but how do you remove the console cover (plastic/wood). I don't see any screws.

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1987 300D wvo on the way!

If its like the 83 300SD the light comes from a fiber optic system with the bulb at the center and located behind the radio.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

Thanks. I'll have to check that location.

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

anyone done this recently?

the window lock will not engage, there is only one tiny plastic clutch that moves in a labrynth on the side of the switch once removed. Is there something missing?

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My w126 driver's switch wasn't working i took it apart to clean, and it was broken (plastic piece inside was cracked) i found a parts w124 and bought the switch for $20...

I did it last year to rear window lock switch in "Candy" ---- and I was not prepared for the spring to fly out. Took me a while to figure out how to put it back together.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

hey david,

do you remember the little piece of plastic in the side of the switch? was there only one?

does yours work or stay depressed?

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can the switches with the chrome trim around them be cleaned the same way? i cant seem to get the rocker part off?

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95 E320 24k
07 E550 4matic 20k Soon to go
1977 240d 481k
2013 SL 600


Non MBs

02 Ford F250 Lariat 4 Quad Cab 7.3 Diesel 95k
01 Chevy Suburban 249K LT 5.3 V8
88 Saab SPG Convertible 32k
06 Lincoln Mark LT 59k
62 VW Bug
52 Bentley Mark IV
53 GMC half Ton Pickup
08 VW Beetle convertible 2k
07 bmw x5 4.8i 17k
03 bmw x5 4.4i 40k
08 Range Rover S 9K

1.Pull up front of carpet covering the "Tray" that's under the Driver's Armrest
(in the "Down" position) there's one Phillips head screw...Remove it.
2.GENTLY pry up the Black Plastic Surround at the Gear Lever/Wood interface.
3. You may have to put the selector in Neutral.
4.Swing the Rear of Wooden Console Up + Forwards (Until it's Vertical)...This will allow you to disengage the Two Plastic Hooks on it's front side that tuck
under the Non-Horizontal portion of the console.
5.All the Electrical Switches may now be gently Pulled Upwards...
Do Not Pull On the Operating portion of the Switches! (Example: little square
Toggle that moves the right side mirror)(or the underside of the window "Rockers)
Pull on the body of the Switch ('Fore and Aft) with a gentle "rocking"motion.
If they've been in there 10 to 20 years it may take some patience!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I just canNOT bring myself to buy a third driver's side switch this year. Why do they fail so fast? One set I bought didn't last three days. And of course no refund from the seller.

Anyone have a driver's side with lockout for a 1980 300sd? I am going to try to refurbish the ones I have based on these instructions but I've I can never really seem to get them to work fully, as the ummmmm brass flapper dealie never seems to sit firmly in the little holder after you take it apart.

And argh, that day when the switch feels all crunchy and you know it's about to fail is never far off.

They always become impossible to depress and all stiff and crunchy and hard a few days before the rocker gives out entirely and your finger pushes all the way through the switch. Could corrosion and goop really cause that? Or something else? Or is it crummy design on the new switches? The new ones I have bought do not have ball bearings, they do have tiny springs and I have noticed in the new ones, the springs seem hard and not bouncy, which makes me think that's why they fail so fast.

Not loving buying a new switch every three months. Grrr.

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1980 300SD 220,xxx
somewhere, nc

also it is a good idea to polish the contacts with an eraser and clean all of the soda out with rubbing alcohol. i need to do this to the seat switch

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Hello, thank you for yr good explanations and pictures.

My headlights work ok when in low position. However, the high position doesn't. It used to work well, but little by little it was turning harder and harder to position the lever as to connect the high beam lights. They are there, they are working, but at present, it is almost impossible making them light. And if I can, the lever do not stay in position, and everything turns dark, no light is on.

It is evident to me, that there is a fail on the combination switch. So I have to drive with low light only. This will not pass my next tech revision now in April. They will reject my car.

I got a picture on how to take out that switch from a manual I bought from the US on a CD.

My question is: what do you think about taking it out and try to fix it myself?

It looks to me as a little mechanical problem.

Any ideas, pictures? Anything that may help?

Thank you very much.

Old Beaver

P.S. : I am sending a copy to the Forum.

I just removed the center console from a W124 for the first time ever. (For me).
Amend above for W124:
There is a screw at the rear.
It is not necessary to remove rubber around shifter.
Heated seat switches will stay with console, all other switches are bolted to the chassis (sort of).
The console has two tabs under the center dash, so it will be necessary to lift up from the rear. Be careful not to damage the wood veneer as the switches behind the shifter will all stay behind. If the Veneer is tight against a switch, a chip could be taken out of the finish. Be careful.
The 2 center switches will come up with the console, but effort is require to lift the console as you are also disconnecting these 2 switches. be careful not to flex the console as this may also cause cracking of the finish.

I was surprised to find the switch assemblies screwed down. In some ways this is cool as switch replacement is easy at this point.

I am trying to get the right rear window to work. I swapped a known good switch (they all appear the same) and the window did not function.

I took the switch that previously operated the right rear nonfunctioning window, and placed it in another spot to test the switch. I found that it would raise the window, but not lower. This leads me to believe that maybe there is a bad motor or bound assembly that may have burnt out the switch.

Following instructions above, I will rebuild the switch and again test it in one of the spots of a functioning window.









I am not exactly certain what you are describing here, but I can only guess that the main headlamp switch is difficult to turn? (rotate). Perhaps you can take it apart and clean it. This may help. Your other option is to replace it with a used assembly.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.