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#1
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POR 15 Experience..wow
I heard all the stories about POR-15, how great it is etc..
I personally thought it was another horse$hit snake oil "stop rust" scam. Well...I have been proven VERY VERY wrong! This stuff is simply insane...brushes on like a normal paint, and hardens into an impenetrable substance! Someone told me you could put it right over foberglass mat, and it would harden...I tried it on a pin hole I had in my trunk...WOW it hardened right up! I coated the entire inside of the trunk, after I had prepped some of the surface rust with a wire brush, and it looks factory new! Hard as nails too. I fooled around with the little bit left over in the baby food jar on a piece of old sheet metal, to see how good of a finish it was... Well after smashing with a hammer, pouring gasoline, water, salty water all over it, I brushed it off and it was still the same finish.. I am going to use the rest of this pint to completely undercoat the car, and possibly by another to do floors inside..to give it the factory fresh look All I can say is if you have been thinking about getting some, try it out! My dad, the doubting Thomas about everything (and rightfully so with most of my stupid ideas and products ) Was even impressed with the capabilities. I will get some pics of soon.
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http://www.betten.mercedescenter.com...n_banner_1.jpg 1976 300D 190,000 Miles Colorado Beige 1975 300D Parts Car 78,000 Miles Rustbucket Also Colorado Beige 1984 190D 2.2 (Dad's) 156,000 miles Champagne Metallic Clearcoat |
#2
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can you paint over it? .. ill have to get a color close to mine so i can fix a small rust spot i have from a leaky antenna grommet.. its right behind the wheel under the arch kinda in the trunk.. hard to explain..
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#3
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Yes
Yes it can be painted over.
http://www.por15.com has all the PDF files for what can be done with it.
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http://www.betten.mercedescenter.com...n_banner_1.jpg 1976 300D 190,000 Miles Colorado Beige 1975 300D Parts Car 78,000 Miles Rustbucket Also Colorado Beige 1984 190D 2.2 (Dad's) 156,000 miles Champagne Metallic Clearcoat |
#4
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I agree, it's great stuff but be careful, it expands.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#5
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I just got a POR15 starter kit two days ago to fix around the jackpoints on an '87 300D Turbo. The left one is rusty, but the right side has rusted all the way through so theres a hole around it. Any experience with the putty?
Thanks, Brad |
#6
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the putty is great for small pits and holes. when it hardens though it must be ground with a disk grinder. not good for exterior finish work.
on the other question of painting over, you need their tie coat product. the achilles heel of por is that the uv from the sun will cause it to degrade.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#7
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The other achilles heel is that it peels off after a while.
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#8
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just dont get it on your hands! ask me how i know
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#9
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Nasty stuff
Yes, it is nasty stuff, but it works. I went half with a friend on a quart container & poured it all in glass baby food jars. Try to use it as fast as possible. If you seal it in a container & it's not quite full, it will harden with the air that's inside.
Yes, it may peel if applied over a smooth surface. It's made to go over rust, so don't grind the rust down to shiny metal, leave some for the POR-15 to stick to. Make sure to rough it up before applying paint or primer. As for exterior finish work as WODNEK mentioned, it is not the easiest thing to smooth out, goes on pretty thick. Would work though for filling in a low spot from heavy rust. Paul.
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1984 300CD red/blk 290,000 partial resto 1980 240D 4 sp Brn/palomino gone 1997 Mazda Miata STO edition wife's baby 1988 Lincoln Mark VII LSC next resto 1986 Subaru GL wagon daily 1993 Isuzu pickup field beater 2008 Honda Civic EX-L 5sp wife's new car 1978 Honda XL350 1974 Honda XL70 my Calif. ride in HS |
#10
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It can peel if the surface is not prepped properly. If there is some grease or residue of some kind, it may peel. However, if you use their Marine Clean and Metal Ready prep products, there should be no problem. They are good products too. I've had some on for ten years and it still looks as good as the day it went on.
Len |
#11
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Quote:
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#12
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I can also attest to the durability of this stuff. Had 9 years experience on a car and 8 years on 2 pair of patio doors. The patio doors are steel and original finish lasted 4 years before pitting. Bad humid environment in the shade in Florida. Did the exact process, with POR's products, including sanding out all pitting down to bare metal. After 8 years, not one new pit. No peal, no pitting, no nothing. With Latex paint!
Cannot just put it over rust. This material keeps oxygen off the metal. A rust base will just crack the POR material and o2 will get in. In fact the cure of POR is anerobic. It consumes o2 (ie any on or near the surface of the metal) as well as the outer surface . The final finish of the stuff is a very shiny and hard, like glass. Re painting, you have to use a special primer. Case in point. I tried applying some latex to the doors before prime for fun and it just slid off like a omelete in a pan. Incredible. Best to scuff the POR before applying the primer Good luck Lots of prep time |
#13
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Hmm
In my POR 15 kit it says that you can paint directly over rust with the paint. It says the paint itself seals the rust from oxygen and moisture, thereby stopping ot from spreading.
In any case I did this in my trunk, and it looks good. Here are some pics: (Not the rusty material seen on top of the POR finish is "left over" rust residue that stuck to trunk plastic carpet thing, not rust reoccuring after one day!)
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http://www.betten.mercedescenter.com...n_banner_1.jpg 1976 300D 190,000 Miles Colorado Beige 1975 300D Parts Car 78,000 Miles Rustbucket Also Colorado Beige 1984 190D 2.2 (Dad's) 156,000 miles Champagne Metallic Clearcoat Last edited by KylePavao; 07-08-2006 at 02:37 PM. |
#14
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If it cures in contact with air it would be aerobic, right?
Sealants designed to seal between metal parts are anerobic so they don't cure until they are pressed between surfaces without air ... or, am I missing the point?
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George Stephenson 1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet) former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car former 1985 300 CD - great car former 1981 300 TD - good car former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg |
#15
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I stand corrected, its aerobic. My point was that there is no solvent in the stuff to dry out. It reacts with o2 and molecularly changes from a liquid to a hard surface.
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