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  #1  
Old 07-08-2006, 09:05 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
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Location: NE Ohio
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recommendation request...

Just today, while i was out with a buddy running to a tools shop to do a favor, i discovered that my front driver's side tire was low. After futher examination i discovered that it had a nail in it. I went to get my spare then rememeberd that my jack was @ home. Luckily i was at a tool/dye/fab shob. I borrowed a large floor jack and threw on my 24 year old spare. I had filled it with some air in the fall but without weight on it i didnt know how much to put in, as i didnt have a gauge. Once I got that on i discovered that it was low too. I had to use the shop's air compressor and pump some 20psi into the tire.

Now i need your recommendation:

the front tires are worn unevenly due to a broken ball joint. So instead of just fixing the tire should I get a new set of tires? Just the fronts or both?

I'm told Michelin is the tire of choice for Mercedes. I have 15" 8-Hole Rims. I've heard that 16" tires provide better handleing. Anyone have any recommendation as to a size? I'd like ALL SEASON tires as i do not have a spare set of rims for winter...


thanks

kris

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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2006, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10
Fix the suspension problem, then get New Bridgestones

Fix the suspension - ball joint issue first, then I prefer the Bridgestones. Michellins are nice, my 1981 300SD has Michellins on it now, they are OK, but I still prefer the Bridgestone Turanza Tires, much better for the MB and a better value! Enjoy!
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smartpoageSD
1981 300SD with 316k, Shell Rotella Motor Oil, soon to switch to Synthetic, Michellins and running Willie Nelson's Biodiesel B20
1987 Mazda pickup 111k on Mobil1
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2006, 09:42 PM
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First things first

As smartpoageSD has reminded us, the front suspension comes first. Not only is it potentially dangerous, a car with steering problems is no fun to drive and it will continue to ruin tires.

Once the front end is in good shape, you can move on to new tires. If the rear tires are still useable, you can replace only the fronts. If so, you should use the brand and model that is already on the rear, or something as close to it as you can. If that is not possible, replace all four.

As to the brand and type, that's like asking which oil is best. Everyone has their favorite tire. Michelin and Continental, I believe, have long been the factory's choice. My car came to me with Pirelli's and they seem to work fine. How long they will last is another matter -- I've always been told that Pirelli makes a fairly soft tire, good handling, poor wearing. I'll see.

For all season wear, someone who also lives in snow country will have to help you. Here in California, snow is illegal, so I know nothing about snow tires.

Changing to 16 inch rims needs to be done at the same time the suspension is adjusted for the new wheels. The amount of oversteer/understeer is partially a function of tire/wheel size. If you got a complete set of 16 inch rims with tires, you could take the whole thing to the alignment shop and have them do the repair and set up the suspension for the new wheels. My personal opinion is that it will not make a large amount of difference and is not worth the expanse. However, I've never done it; others may not agree.

Jeremy
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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
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Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2006, 10:02 PM
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the suspention was fixed a long time ago. this is just the aftermath with the tires. thanks for the consirn
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848
For all season wear, someone who also lives in snow country will have to help you. Here in California, snow is illegal, so I know nothing about snow tires.
If snow is illegal in California, someone needs to be arrested. I got semi-stuck in the snow in California over the winter (Lake Tahoe area). This brings me to my first relevant point: Bridgestone Potenza suck on snow and ice.

Quote:
Changing to 16 inch rims needs to be done at the same time the suspension is adjusted for the new wheels. The amount of oversteer/understeer is partially a function of tire/wheel size.
Jeremy
I don't agree. While it is true that a change in tires and wheels can affect understeer/oversteer characteristics, almost any alignment shop you go to is going to adjust the car to stock alignment specs*.

The actual camber and caster angles of a suspension aren't going to change with a change in tire or wheel size**. Toe angle will not change, but toe distance will change slightly depending on wheel size, since it's measured at the edges of the wheels. This will be a small change, and really a moot point since alignment machines in common use work by measuring the angle and not the distance. In other words, you can align a car with 195/60R14 tires on it, change to 225/60R16 tires, check the alignment again, and the numbers will be the same.

*Some (mainly racing-oriented) shops will get into custom alignments. If you're going custom, the tire construction and sidewall height will affect the optimum camber. A short sidewall tire with high cornering stiffness needs less (negative) camber than a tire with more sidewall and lower cornering stiffness. The type of track you're running on, the temperature, and the coefficient of friction on the track will also affect the optimum alignment settings. You can determine optimum alignment for a given course by measuring tire temperatures at the inside, middle, and outside of the tread. When all three are the same, you have it right. Many racers adjust their alignments differently for every track they run. If the car isn't used for serious oval track or road-course racing, I would just stick with the stock specs.

**The exception is if you put different diameter tires on the front and rear. This will change the overall rake of the body, and with it the caster angle. This would also be a relatively small change, and I wouldn't worry about that either.
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2006, 10:12 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Alignment, etc.

Clearly, you know far more about this subject than I do -- we need to reverse roles. And as for the snow in the Sierra, yes, I've been stuck in all-day traffic jams, white-outs, and the like, up there. It was actually easier driving in the snow in northern Wisconsin -- people were more likely to be prepared and know what they were doing.
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2006, 10:14 PM
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Back to the original subject of good all season tires for a 300SD, and how many to get, I happen to like the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 for all-season use. It doesn't look anything like a snow tire, but the snow (and mud) traction are surprisingly good. Dry traction is on par with the much more expensive Bridgestone Potenzas both my Benzes came to me with. Wet traction is also excellent.

If you have the cash available to replace all four tires, it's best to replace all four. However, if only two are worn and money is a concern (and when is it not?), it's generally ok to run two different tires, though handling characteristics may be compromised. For a while I was running three different tires on my Lincoln (Indy 500 on LF, Firestone PV44 on RF, Les Schwab mudders on the rears). It didn't handle quite as nicely as when I had four Indy 500's on it, but it was fine for daily driving.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #8  
Old 07-09-2006, 12:33 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
my dad took the car down this morning. apparently all 4 were pretty worn. 4 new michelins. i think the last time the tires were replaced was when the wheels were changed which was like 99? 00?
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #9  
Old 07-09-2006, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smartpoageSD
Fix the suspension - ball joint issue first, then I prefer the Bridgestones. Michellins are nice, my 1981 300SD has Michellins on it now, they are OK, but I still prefer the Bridgestone Turanza Tires, much better for the MB and a better value! Enjoy!
bridgstone?????? i wouldnt put bridgstones on a ford exploder. same goes for firestone.
the problem with michellin is that they are soft,they dont last as long.
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  #10  
Old 07-09-2006, 06:49 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
ended up with Michelin 205/60H15 tires. had to replace all 4 tires. spare was still good thou..24 years and counting....haha. Warranty'd for 50,000 miles. Magically my 5-cyl 617 grew to an 8-cyl diesel...lol according to this "vehicle info" on this sheet from Sears.....


Kris

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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