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#1
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Please help, On the road with problems (CV Shaft)
My cv boot decided to fail while driving on a 3000 mile road trip. I decided to replace both sides while I'm at it. Here's the question; the parts store gave me one flanged and one non-flanged. Are these compatible? In other words, can I put one flanged and oner non-flanged on the car?
Thanks for the quick responses, I need to have this back together by this afternoon. baja
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#2
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Not sure what you're saying. Replacing the boots is not a "roadside" job. You need a press and you have to be able to crimp the can, which can be done without special tools, but requires at least a vise. Your best bet is to buy a complete rebuilt halfshaft, which is not that hard to put in. Actually, this is the one situation where you would be OK to use a split boot, you can do that in place - BUT - make the permanent repair ASAP.
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#3
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I'm saying, that I did buy rebuilt half-shafts, and they gave me two different styles. One older and one newer. I'm asking if there is a problem intalling two different styles (like balancing issues).
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#4
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Can you compare the old shafts to the new ones side by side? Balanceing should not be the issue, but mating up and clearances I would worry about.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#5
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the two shafts are the same part number and all, the only difference is that one is the older non-flanged version, and the other shaft is the newer flanged version...
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#6
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You are out on a 3,000 trip and you are going to replace your half-shafts with the tools you carry in the car...........(there has to be more to it than that).
You have an 1982 and that car should NOT be using the flanged style shafts. Each shaft should have two splined ends. You need to take the differential cover OFF to replace these shafts. This is not just a clean bolt-in job. You need a floor jack, jack stands, a 14mm hex driver, a long breaker bar and other assorted tools. The axle style with two splined ends is called a homokenetic. The axle style with one splined end and one flat bolted on end is called annular style. See link, yours should look like this: http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/K400097645LOB.JPG
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#7
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Yes, they are interchangable, the crimped style is earlier; they do have different style joints, but both will work. They are not that hard to put in, just drop the differential, it will give you the extra clearance you need to get them in.
John |
#8
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No, I am not on the side of the road (at the inlaws in the driveway), but I am using the tools I brought along (I always bring a well stocked tool box). I got one homokinetic and one complete annular. So I can put both in, I was just unsure about putting two different parts in a rotating assembly...
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#9
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Good luck with the repair. Man, ask a simple question and all of a sudden you are the target for all kinds of chiding. Just make sure to use the spacers from the old half shafts with the new one. And don't over tighten the bolt in the end. Trust me on that one......
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#10
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You are better off replacing what came off, with an exact match on each side. If you do drop the diff, make sure you mark it and the driveshaft so that you can bolt it back in the same position it was before it came off.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#11
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what could please happen if they are overtightened? i may have over tightened mine with pnuematic gun.
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81 300sd 81 300td 87 300dt |
#12
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You could bind the wheel bearing up. I would check the bearing, and this time use a torque wrench when tightening.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#13
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Bolts will eventually stretch then break. Don't ask me how I know.
if you are still having trouble, post where you are at. Maybe one of us is nearby. |
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