my car was converted to 134a and no one put the federally mandated sticker to let me know it was, so i dont know what the correct charge is and the oil charge should be too..

currently i put one can of the 134a stuff in from wal mart. it was cool but not that cool 75 in the car and 95 outside.. checked it the next morning and 85 in the car and 75 outside(tested in the morning) after a 10 mile drive car was at operating temp and so should the ac have been.

im only asking the correct charge for 134a so i can find any leaks with a dyed 134a.. im wanting to go to freeze 12 (anyone doesnt like that let me know, i cant afford r-12 if it leaks out )

ill buy a new drier, expansionvalve, seals, manifold seals, etc tell me what else i might need


one more thing my compressor sounds very clattery, someone told me it might be a missing segment on the belt.

Using 80-85% of the R-12 recommended charge is a typical approach for R-134a conversions.

You will need to do a complete flush of the system since the oils and refrigerants are not compatible. If you have the R4 compressor, make sure you put I believe about 3 oz. of oil in it before you close it back up and evac it. Good idea to replace seals. Clattering compressor can be anything from a loose belt all the way to impending melt down.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

ok .. dannym has the stuff i need but id probably have fun looking at the guages than using them.. lol.

so 85% of 2.9 lbs.. so about 2.5 lbs of 134a?

remove the compressor to add oil? what kind of oil? new manifold seals while im there?

Read the label closely. Many list several different chassis types. Mine says 2.6 lbs for a W123, 2.9 for a W116.

ok .. well the part number on the compressor is 1134354 i think ill call the local cheby dealership and see how much a new one is... just in case

holy crap 500$.. i was told 200$ at most for this crappy type of compressor..im rebuilding this one..

I am getting very POOR performance from Freeze12.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

you think 134a would be colder.. dieselgiant showed his being like 38F...

Be very careful, The Don...

First off, to get all mineral oil out of the system before charging with 134a.

My understanding is that the R-12 compatible mineral oil can badly damage your compressor once you change to 134 juice. So, the process should be:

Evacuate system with 'a machine' to remove as much mineral oil as possible. Mercedes procedure suggests you do this twice, in fact. Might be a good time to check for leaks; hopefully you have some UV testing dye in there.

Then, open the system by removing the dryer bottle and compressor,

Remove all residual oil from compressor (some will simply pour out...)

Replace any seals as necessary (my understanding was you must have new green (or red?) seals for 134; older black ones will not seal against 134 refrigerant - in my case, I replaced every seal in the system before conversion). I understand the new 'PAG' oils will mix OK with the inevitably-remaining micro amounts of mineral oil.

Replace dryer bottle with new. My understanding was that the new 134-compatible oils will sludge with the older mineral oil, usually in your dryer bottle and often - worse - in your compressor. Get all the mineral oil out of the system you can!

My system's been working great - in our 100 degree heat here in the east. Knock on wood (or walnut veneer, as the case may be...)

Lou

R134A appeared to work better in my wagons than Freeze12. I could get 42 or so degrees with Freeze12 in the middle of the night, but during the heat of the day it blew..... and not very cool.
New compressor, rec/dryer, exp valve, total flush, yada yada....
Just has performed poorly. R134A in same car was cooler, it would just leak out over a couple of days.
All those who can't wait to type how much better R12 is, yea we know........

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Evacuating does nothing to remove oil.

Flushing is how oil is removed. Flush, flush, then flush again.
After flushing, seal all the opened joints with new O-Rings and
Nylog (be sure to use the right rubber material and the
correct Nylog - Red for R-12, and Blue for R-134a).

Just before sealing, add the appropriate amount of the correct oil.
For the W123 I used 170ml Castrol 500 Vis mineral oil and 1/4
ounce of UV dye from Napa.

Then evacuate. Evacuation if for removing water, air, and non-condensable
gases. If your system holds good vaccum (i.e. 29+ inches HG) for hours, you
have a better than reasonable chance of no leaks. Mine held 29.5in overnight.

Dieselgiant has a good step-by-step on his site. I agree with everything he
did except the Freeze-12 part.

In my opinion, nothing but R-12 is going to work well enough for you to be satisfied, especially in Florida.

Vent temperatures are absolutely meaningless unless the ambient temp is also specified. I can get 20 degrees at the vent without even turning the a/c on. But not in July.

dannym like i said has the stuff i need vac pump, guages, uv light safety glasses, nylog, the rubber orings, ill buy the new manifold seals. hopefully he can give me a hand since like i have no idea what to do even with DG's write up


so how can i get 99% of all of the oil out of the compressor, or would it be easier to just spend 300$ on a new one. when DG flushed the entire system out he used an air compressor to blow everything out.. i take it i should do the same

dieselgiant if your reading this where did you buy the AC system flush you used in your tutorial?

The typical auto parts store sells "flush" by the quart.

awesome.. looks like ill be borrowing my schools air compressor that is in the woodworking show.. i need a belt for it. it kind of snapped