(1980 300TD)
Recently my key was sticking so after searching here (and hoping it wouldn't come to following diesel giant's grinding tutorial) I was able to get the key turned and replaced the lock cylinder. Guess that wasn't my problem because even with the new tumbler the steering lock still wouldn't let go.

A little more jiggling and I was able to remove the new cylinder but now I'm wondering if there's a way to rig the steering lock assembly rather than replace it. Several posts have mentioned tricks but I don't quite understand what people have done. I also don't quite understand how the steering lock mechanisms work. Will drilling that pin out make make the key turn smoothly. Can I disable that gummed up springy triangular piece behind the tumbler? Any tips (esp with pics) would be great.

Thanks!
Christine

well posed post. i too am eager for enlighttenment on subject. have not removed my key in months. maybe years.

Sorry I forgot to mention- this is on a 1980 300TD ...she's way to classy to be started with a screwdriver

Some people gut the lock, others depress the lock pin, then wedge something next to it so it can not extend. I believe when the lock is gutted the key in buzzer does not work any more either. I chose to replace mine with an aftermarket unit from fastlane. $70-something later I had it working great.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Read from: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=58636&highlight=diamond+lock

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

I did read that post and it sounded like something I might like to try but what is the locking bolt -- does it look like a regular bolt? Where is it w/in the assembly? etc. I suppose I could just play with it and if I have no luck bite the bullet and buy the new part....

Christine

What model MB are we talking about?

jbaj007... Thanks, good info, this is a problem, I know awaits some time down the road So are 126s and the 123s about the same in regards to your write up?

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

The part I call the Locking bolt is the piece at the end of the lock assembly that engages the steering wheel and retracts (or should retract) when you turn the key.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Stevo,
Its an 80 300TD. I'll edit the first post...
After fiddling a bit, I think I'll call Phil tomorrow and order a new assembly- The likelyhood of me destroying the thing trying to "fix" it is high.
In the mean time, I'll just start her ghetto style... I live in a not so nice part of Baltimore- my neighbors are always warning me that their cars have gotten stolen etc. but I figure if someone wants to drive away in my old wagon, I could just chase them down on foot
Thanks shopforum- at least I was able to get the tumbler out!!!
Christine

Christine,
Like bgkast said, I'm referring to the locking bolt as just the steel cylinder that slides into the steering column. 90º to the tumbler. Remove it as descibed. If you're starting it with a screwdriver anyway, you CAN'T mess it up, because you can always order the part later. It's easier than it sounds.

Stevo,
126, 123 similar. Yes

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

jbaj007,
Thanks for the words of encouragement
Tomorrow, I'll take the whole thing apart and see what I can make of it. If I fail, I'll order the part. Success = a smaller dent in my wallet and some sense of accomplishment i suppose.

Conclusion: I just ordered the new assembly $78.

In following jbaj007's instructions I ran into a few glitches (though it is all very clear now that I've done it wrong). I had some trouble with the little window- Attached to that window is a ring that goes down into the assembly- the cylinder that turns passes through it. Not knowing this, I just kept prying at it and snapped the ring off (photo attached). I think the proper way to remove it would be to slide that turning part out first- if you can.

So I got the locking bolt out (pic attached) and I was just going to reinstall the window anyway. But I didn't remove all the pieces inside- meaning that little triangular piece and all it's friends. In the end these parts were the root of the problem because once reassemled, the thing locked up again and no amount of smashing, throwing or hammering would release it.

Ultimately, a good morning project- at least now I know how all the mechanisms work. It really isn't difficult - just takes someone more patient and meticulous than I am

Attached Thumbnails

   

Well done. Sometimes a job well done isn't successful (some surgeries come to mind), but you did it right; on mine the cylinder and related pawls holding the ring fell out.

At least you know how to steal my car now .

__________________
The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

[QUOTE=ricardon5945]Conclusion: I just ordered the new assembly $78.

Congratulations, feels good, huh

You have inspired me to go out to a parts car I have with the dash removed and practice.

I used a paper clip which measures 2 inches long and is 1.15 mm in thickness. I tapered the end about 45 degrees on the grinder, (which was suggested in another post) which seemed to help retract the pin.

This was on a 82 240D

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"