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  #1  
Old 07-23-2006, 04:05 PM
Beckenbauer's Avatar
Om mani padme um
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 23
1983 300D front passenger door lock actuator

how does the vertical shift rod disconnect from the front passenger door vacuum element? I've tried unscrewing it but it seems to spin within the element's clear plastic sleeve. Also, the old (and bad) element's female plastic casing completely surrounds the shift rod, but my new element's casing only goes about 280 degrees around.
I've searched here, at braingears(it showed the older vacuum element), in my chilton's, nuthin'!
This is probably one of those "it's so easy, there's no need to walk people through this" tasks, but I would appreciate any help.

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"Garner"-1983 300D Turbo (285K)
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2006, 06:22 PM
RAYMOND485
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CALIF
Posts: 508
Door Actuator

1984 300d Turbo 139k
It Pops Off With Side Way Motion And Snaps On The Same Simple Diy
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2006, 06:53 PM
Beckenbauer's Avatar
Om mani padme um
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 23
Thanks!

Yeah, I finally got my head around the design of the new(er) actuator! It was just that every DIY article concerning this made it seem that you had to disconnect the safety clip at the top of the rod, pull the actuator with the rod attached, disassemble, etc. I guess for 1983s at least, this is not the case.
Also, I found that in removing and installing the door panel itself, the front left corner of the map pocket has a sideways (open toward the rear of the car)tab that attaches behind the sheetmetal of the door. So, as has been said elsewhere, to remove the panel, you must slide it up(after popping all the white tabs), with careful attention to the upper left map pocket area. Installing involves getting the upper lip of the door panel over its cradle, while simultaneously pushing in on that upper left map pocket area so it seats in its slot. Maybe it's just hot out, but it took me awhile
But it's back to the drawing board for my vacuum leak because as it turns out, the old actuator was fine
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"Garner"-1983 300D Turbo (285K)
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2006, 10:55 PM
miner's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 73
I had a huge leak in a hard line going to the trunk actuator. All of my actuators/elements were fine.

Try pulling up both floor mats and removing the black plastic covering that goes over the vacuum lines and electrical wires. They are on the outer sides of the front seating areas. Inside from where the kick plate is. There are connectors there that you can undo to check at least what side the leak(s) is on.

I love that I now have a tight vacuum system. Now on to the electric windows....
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1984 300d 223k
1994 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L 88k

"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've added some special modifications myself." -- Han Solo

"Would it help if I got out and pushed?" -- Princess Leia
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  #5  
Old 09-30-2006, 01:24 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: wichita
Posts: 3
need help in this area

i have a very similair problem with my right front door lock. thought it may be the pump/switch, but turns out that works fine. Somehow the connecting rod isn't working right, i've taken apart, but can't figure it out. i could use your advise. i'll send a pm in case you don't check this post anymore.

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