'87 300 SDL

I understand the IP is self priming... This vehicle has been sitting for months... I changed the fuel filter... why they made it so tight when so much room exists everywhere I don't know... but that's not the point...

I hooked up a hand held vacuum pump to get the fuel up thru the lift pump... But it seems to me I still have so much air in the fuel system it will not start.

I did get a cough out of it last night. But had to shut her down when I realized I never connected the return line (oopsie!). Now I'm back to just churning and churning on the starter.

Any suggestions?

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'87 300SDL, intensely modified Greasecar setup, with nickle plated heat exchanger, 3 valve setup, 312,000 miles
'95 Suburban diesel, Greasecar basics, 16 plate heat exchanger, mercedes fuel lines, Racor filter
'85 Renault Alliance converted full electric vehicle

Did you fill the new filter with fuel or Diesel Purge? If not then do that first.

Loosen each injector line at the injector. Crank the engine for 10 seconds then check for fuel at the injector fittings. Tighten any fitting when you see fuel. Crank for another 10 seconds and check for fuel in the remaining lines. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Sixto

I can't fill the filter because I have to turn it on it's side to get it in place...

BUT... I did place the vacuum pump AFTER the fuel filter and was getting some air, but plenty of fuel with it. So I would think that would be enough to get it started.

Even if I do have an air leak in the lines I SHOULD be able to get the engine to sputter... I think there may be air in the pressure lines or something... but that should get pushed out by now...

I may hook the vacuum pump up to the return line and try that but I think that will just pull from the banjo bolt and defeat my purpose.

Bill

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'87 300SDL, intensely modified Greasecar setup, with nickle plated heat exchanger, 3 valve setup, 312,000 miles
'95 Suburban diesel, Greasecar basics, 16 plate heat exchanger, mercedes fuel lines, Racor filter
'85 Renault Alliance converted full electric vehicle

Get the filter in place then fill through the center hold before you fit the big bolt.

Loosen the injector lines like I said. It will start pretty quickly.

If you want to do it per the FSM hold down the pedal and crank for a minute at a time allowing the starter to cool between tries.

Check that the stop lever pops up when you turn the key to start.

Sixto

Is there any way to add a primer pump to these engines? I really think it must be hard on the starter to run it for a minute at a time.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

You may have bad glow plugs as well. Perhaps your fuse is blown and none work. I remember having to crank an extra long time on my wifes car after fuel filter change. Barely able to get it fired up before the battery ran out of juice. Come to find out , the glow plug fuse was blown. Since then, it fires right up after a fuel filter change. I'm thinking that even though its summer that extra heat is helpful since the fuel is not getting there in correct quantities or spray pattern.

I'd fix what is wrong. Make sure you are getting fuel out of each injector line when you crack them at the injectors. Open em all up a half turn and crank for 30 seconds. then close them. Then open em up one at a time if need be until it runs. That should get all air out of the lines.

If you suspect bad fuel, make a little fuel tank under the hood out of a 2 litre juice bottle and try with fresh fuel.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

I have to wait for a 2nd hand... Saturday... I don't appear to be getting fuel at the injectors.

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'87 300SDL, intensely modified Greasecar setup, with nickle plated heat exchanger, 3 valve setup, 312,000 miles
'95 Suburban diesel, Greasecar basics, 16 plate heat exchanger, mercedes fuel lines, Racor filter
'85 Renault Alliance converted full electric vehicle