Sady and I have been very busy.
-This thread will serve as an Update as to what we have been up to.
-I am also needing some help, so if you dont care what I have spent time on her doing recently, skip to the bottom and see if you can help me out.

Contents:
1. Why I needed to replace gaskets etc.
2. The oil pan ordeal
3. What I did (replaced) on the passenger side of the engine
4. Test Drive, differences in sounds etc.
5a. Small Catastophe!
5b. Wow, that was luck.
6a. Why I need an updrade alternator.
6b. Fitting a 120 amp Saab alternator off of a 1997 900
7. *** Tranny woes, please help with this part, if nothing else. This is really the only thing about this thread I really need help with.

1. Not too long ago I replaced my shutoff valve because the old one quit working very well. Anyway, I didnt put the gaskets on right (or something) because it leaked badly. I made a large parts order including most of the gaskets on the drivers side of the engine, new seals and a new air filter for the passenger side. Thanks goes out to DougO for sending me a new air cleaner housing for my birthday. (There was an aluminum aftermarket one I originally had thought would be 'cool' but after researching decided otherwise) I got all the parts in and set out to work. First I drained all the oil and removed the oil filter housing (again) Then I removed the shutoff valve and discovered that I had not only put the gaskets on wrong, but the plate that you bolt the shutoff valve to the IP was all warped. I took the hammer and put it back into its place. Now its nice and flat. I put the gaskets on the right way this time and used some gasket sealer. Then I put all that back together.

2. Next I dropped the oil pan. (the lower pan gasket was leaking) I noticed as I was taking the pan off that there was a large gap in screw intervals on the drivers side. I thought it was odd, but continued to work. I cleaned it up nice, sanded it and painted it flat black. It looks much better. When I went to put the new gasket back on, I found that someone had broken off a bolt which caused the leak and the odd screw intervals. The hole were the bolt should have been was filled in with black muck, which blended in with the pan. There was nothing left of the bolt to grab onto at all. (which means no hope for vise-grips etc.) Then I started thinking. I went and got a center punch and made an indent in the middle of the broken off bolt. Then I used the drill (and a small bit) to drill a hole all the way though the bolt. Next I pounded an allen wrench that was just slightly bigger than the hole I drilled into the remaining part of the bolt. Then I turned the wrench, and the remainder of the bolt came out perfectly! And there was no damage to the upper pan. I sure got lucky. I then sealed up the lower pan with a new gasket.

3. Next I replaced the grommet and o-rings for the turbo drain (and a gasket). Then I put the stock air cleaner bracket back into place, along with a new gasket for the turbo feed line. I also put new sealing rings on the oil pressure sensor and the turbo feed line. Then I put new mounts on the bracket (with heat shields of course) and mounted the air cleaner housing. I put on new o-rings for the CCV system drain. I put the air filter on, closed the cover, added a new (updated) breather hose, and finished up with new sealing rings for the u-tube. I was in business. or so I thought.

4. I started her up (she started right off of course) Made sure there was full oil pressure. Gave the engine a once over, and checked for signs of leakage beneith the car. Then I tuned in the rack dampener and idle adjustment until my idle was nearly flawless. Its so smoothe now! Everything looked fine, so I went for a test drive. It is really amazing the difference in sound. Before, with that crappy air intake, the engine was really loud and abnoxious and you could hear the turbo whine a whole lot. Now while driving, I can barely even hear her running. Its really fantastic. I really love it.

5a. I got back to my house, and noticed that my car was leaking oil bad I quickly shut her off, and started cleaning up the mess. I took the u-tube and the air cleaner back off and discovered a hairline crack in the turbo oil feed line. I must have messed with it too much when putting the bracket back on, and adding the gasket. This is when I got really lucky.

5b. I just happend to have an extra turbo oil feed line from the old engine! And it didnt have any cracks. I cleaned it up, slapped it on, but everything back together and started her up. No more leaks! Test drive was wonderful.


6a. Now I have a nice sound system, and someday I want some nicer headlights, and also someday I think I will be adding things like heated seats and such, and I have a WVO system which I would like to add some 12v heat to... So I thought that it is time to upgrade the alternator.

6b. I read through the monster thread about the AL129X 115 amp upgrade, then I re-read it. I searched on car-part.com to find someone who would sell me a cheap alternator. I ended up buying one off of a 1997 Saab 900 mistakenly. Although, it did have 120 amp output. It only cost me $50, shipped to my door. I spent approximately 7 hours this evening (3 til 10) modifying this alternator to work on my car. This is what I did. First I decided I would not modify the car, so that I could go back to stock if I wanted. I decided to modify the alternator, since it was cheap. I started by removing the stock alternator. Then I removed the dual pully. I got really lucky, and it just so happend to fit on the Saab alternator. I used the impact wrench to take it off, and put it on. It worked well. I thought I had better make sure the pully fit before I go modifying it and not even have a pully to run it. Next I removed the adjustment bracket. It was just about 1/8" too skinny to fit over the Saabs 2 lobes. I used a combination of my angle grinder, my pneumatic cut-off wheel, and a good file to cut away enough of one of the lobes so that the adjusment bracket fit the Saab alt. The opposing lobe was in about the same place, but was just a different thickness... It would bolt up with a spacer. The only problem now was that one of the lobes was too tall, and getting in the way of the bolt holes. I trimmed it down and made it work with the adjustment bracket. Then (because I wanted to make sure it would all go together) I removed the main bracket from the car. This is a major PITA and should be avoided at all costs. I will explain. You think you can get off easy by removing 4 nuts and pulling it off. It doesnt work that way.. .there is a hidden bolt holding it in place under the lip of the harmonic balancer located just under the water pump. I had to rotate the engine so that the gap of the harmonic balancer was aligned with the bolt. I could fit a socket on the bolt now, but the socket wrench would not fit. I tried using a regular open end wrench but couldnt get it at the right angle to make the bolt budge. A closed end wrench was too thick around the edges and it didnt work either. So, I took an old 3/8" extention and chopped off the end. I ground it down so that there was just enough of it sticking out of the end of the socket that when I put the socket on the bolt, I could turn it with a 3/8" open end stubby wrench. This worked! So, I got the main bracket all un-bolted, but it still would not come off. It would move, but the turbo oil drain was in the way, which means you have to unbolt that also, just to get that bracket out. Finally it came out. I put it in the vise, and bolted the alternator with the adjustment bracket to it. With some extra grinding, it all fit as it should, and it should be adjustable. My dad went out and bought a bunch of washers which I used as spacers, because I didnt have any other choice. They will serve their purpose. I filled in the empty spaced on the long alternator bolts with the washers, and everything lined up just right. It took me a while, but I bolted the brackets with the alternator back onto the engine, disregarding that one lone front bolt. I dont see why it needs to be there anyway? anyone want to chime in on that? I finally got the alternator up where it should be... but I need bigger belts which Im running out in my Dad's car to get tomorrow morning before work. The belts have to be just really close though. The stock belts are too tight... If I get too big of belts, the alternator will get adjusted fine, but the pully will eat up the lower radiator hose. If I get too small of bigger belts, the adjustment screw will get in the way of the belt closer to the engine, and it will rub. Well see how it goes.


7. ***I need help here
- Before all of this (and before some research) I thought I was soon going to be in need of a new transmission. Mine was shifting too soon for the 1-2, and way late for the 2-3. I had good vacuum at the pump, but not after I researched did I know anything farther than that. I tested my modulator and it held vacuum for 10 minutes (could have held longer, I just stopped then) So I dont think that is the issue. The valve (that connects to the linkage) is what I think the problem is. When idling, vac to the tranny is 15". No matter what I do with that valve or rev, or whathave you, vac to the tranny never deviates more than a couple of "s of mecury from 15". When I disconnected the transmission from vacuum, it shifts fine, and my bowden cable is adjusted correctly. Currently I have been driving (only a couple of times) without vac. going to the tranny. Is this bad? It shifts fine, and fluid level is perfect, spot on. What can I do to make the system right? replace that valve? what about those orifices? what will a good vacuum system do for my shifting?

If you read through all this, congrats!

Sorry about the long post, I just wanted to keep everyone informed.

Any help, constructive criticism, or comments are welcome!

Thanks!

Pictures to come SOON!

This is what I used to adjust/diagnose the tranny:http://articles.mbz.org/transmission/adjust/

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

You can run the trans without vac, it usually just shifts harder. The vac system is VERY important for smooth shifting. I would concentrate on getting it right before replacing the whole trans. I may have an extra valve for you Andy. I'll take a look tonight when I get off work and give you a call.

Glad to hear everything has been going so well for you and Sady. I've just been tinkering with a few small odds and ends with Tabitha, mostly just a few minor squeeks and rattles.

__________________
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Alright well, the fluid is blood red, does not smell burnt and is spot on when it comes to how much there is. Without vac to the tras, shifting is great timing, and really not very hard. I would like it to be perfect though

Illl talk to you tonight.

Alright cool, Im going to print that out and go over it all.

Ill post back tonight with results and pictures!

This is what I did...

Sorry about how big these are... if you would like to see them regularly sized please see all of "Andy's alt wiring" pictures located at www.pgmfi.org/~firepyroandy


This is the 120 amp bosch alternator I modified to fit my car.



This is how lucky I got... I had to get larger belts, but I was lucky that they didn't rub on the adjustment bracket.



Another shot of the alternator installed... shown are the 'spacers' (aka lots of washers)



This is me holding the main part of what I had to remove from the alternator.



Close-up of 'spacers'



New Battery terminals and new power wire... The grounding wire will be replaced with 1/0 gauge when I buy the right connectors.



Another shot of the wiring... also shows terminal block and hard start relay (explained below)



This is a close-up of the hard start relay and associated wiring. This relay just takes the load off of the ignition wiring. Also you can see the 1/0 gauge wire going down to the starter going where the stock wiring used to be. (through grommets.)



Crappy picture of 4 ga. connection at alternator, and grounding strap connection just behind it.



Better picture (from under car) of alternator connection.

continued...

Grounding strap between engine (alternator bracket itself) and chassis. Also behind it is the 1/0 ga. wire for the starter.



Grounding connection on engine (alternator bracket nut.)



Connection of 1/0 ga. wire to starter solenoid. I also replaced the signal wire going to the solenoid. Above everything you can see the 4 ga. red power wire which goes to the amp in the trunk. Also, I discovered I do have a block heater, I just need the cord.

Questions? Comments? Flame?

Bring it on.