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#1
08-01-2006, 08:13 PM
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Pipe Dope Needed on Oil Pressure Sender Threads?
Getting ready to replace a defective oil pressure sender on my 350SDL and was wondering if I need to put some kind of joint compound on the threads of this unit? Anyone got any advice?
Thanks Bert - NH 
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#2
08-01-2006, 08:17 PM
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sender unit dope
it never hurts to put some dope of some kind on pipe threads... i use liquid teflon or just teflon tape. i am of hydraulic backround so tape is usually a 2nd choice. you could also use "blue" loctite. it seals a bit and keeps thing where you left them. . .
davidh (the old guy)
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#4
08-01-2006, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
I would not want to remove this with locktite on it, Its a PITA on the 603 engine you have to drop the upper oil cooler line on the 124 chassis to get to the sender. Did yours have any odd indications? Reading high perhaps? I am not a fan of the electrical gauges when it comes to oil the old mechanical gauges were (are) the best.
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#5
08-01-2006, 10:21 PM
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Yes - High Readings ALWAYS. As soon as I turned the key into the ON position, the Oil Pressure Gauge would jump to it's highest level and never move until the key was turned off. I'm hoping that the new sender will fix the problem.
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#6
08-01-2006, 11:48 PM
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Thats what I have seen both on my car and here on the Shopforum some had similar symptoms.
Its not too hard to change but I cursed a bit when I dropped the allen wrench for loosening the one (rear?) bolt that holds the oil cooler hose onto the filter housing. I won't say how many times I dropped it  You may need a short Allen there, on the 124 car IF you have to drop the oil cooler hose, I can't say if the 126 is any different but hopefully it has more room, its a larger car all the way around. If you just reach down and put a wrench on the sender that you are way luckier!
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#7
08-01-2006, 11:53 PM
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I use teflon tape, quick and simple.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#8
08-02-2006, 12:12 AM
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You needn't worry about the teflon tape withstanding the heat or even interferring with electrical conductivity as the tape or the dope act only as a lubricant to enable the threads to be tightened enough to seal on their own, it is not intended as a sealing agent.
Once the threads are tight, the tape/dope has done it's job and is no longer needed. It is the same for all types of tapered pipe threads used in oil, water and gas applications.
__________________
Brian 87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017 02 F350 Powerstroke 180K 05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K 08 Infiniti FX-35 40K 15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K 10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K
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#9
08-02-2006, 12:37 AM
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why not use the correct part, there is an aluminum washer there that rarely if ever leaks. i have replaced many without issues
mb# is N 007-603-01-21-13 never had to use anything on the threads
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#10
08-02-2006, 11:49 AM
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I noticed they used an aluminum crush washer, so I replaced that with nothing on the threads. Its been over a year and no leaks.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
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