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  #1  
Old 08-02-2006, 11:39 AM
Deni's Avatar
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Location: Tirana, Albania
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Talking Need some help with water plumbing please

Hi everyone!

I got myself a flat plate heat exchange for heating vegetable oil. I need some help though as I don't know where to take the hot water from. If you could go to this short thread I even provided 2 pics of my engine bay.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=447609751&f=159605551&m=7451095751&r=7021039751#7021039751

Thanks, Deni

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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.
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  #2  
Old 08-02-2006, 01:10 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
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You will have to come off of a heater hose. I do not know the water flow on a 190D, but that is the best way to get hot coolant to your veggie tank.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

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  #3  
Old 08-02-2006, 05:11 PM
Deni's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi
You will have to come off of a heater hose. I do not know the water flow on a 190D, but that is the best way to get hot coolant to your veggie tank.
Did you check the link I posted? I'm just asking which hoses should I use (take hot water from)
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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.
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  #4  
Old 08-02-2006, 05:26 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Do you know how the water flows? As I said in my post, I do not. If the water flows from the head to the heater core, then use that one and split it off before it gets to the heater core because it will be hotter. If it flows from the water pump, to the heater core, then to the head, again split it off prior to the heater core, because even though the water just came from the radiator, it will still be hotter than before it entered the heater core. The heater core is basically a mini radiator. That is why you are advised to run the heater, even in the summer, if you see your temp guage rising to the red mark.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2006, 05:57 PM
Deni's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tirana, Albania
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Quote:
Do you know how the water flows? As I said in my post, I do not. If the water flows from the head to the heater core, then use that one and split it off before it gets to the heater core because it will be hotter. If it flows from the water pump, to the heater core, then to the head, again split it off prior to the heater core, because even though the water just came from the radiator, it will still be hotter than before it entered the heater core. The heater core is basically a mini radiator. That is why you are advised to run the heater, even in the summer, if you see your temp guage rising to the red mark.
That's what I'm tryng to figure out . Thanks for stoping by anyways .

My 190D has a om602 turbo engine. Is anyone familiar with these engines . I know it's a silly question .

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1992 Mercedes 190D 2.5 turbo 5sp manual. EGT+boost gauges. Boost controller set to ~14.5 psi. 1 1/4 turns on full load adjustment. LPG injection. Next in the list is water injection.
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