Diamond or Lemon? 87 300 SDL, 600 mile drive to get it home... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eyeglassdriver · #1 06-25-2006, 06:24 PM

Here she is...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-SDL-Great-Gas-Mileage-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ180000339602QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotoho sting

I average 4200 miles a month behind a windshield and have almost 200K on my '98 Maxima, so I've been thinking what my next car will be for a while. I want something I can drive for the next 300K miles, so, after listening to enough old salty 'Benz mechanics I decided on an 86-87 300 DSL. I found this one over the weekend and put in a couple test bids. Now I might win it.

The miles check out on Carfax, but I'll be rolling the dice on this one. It is a 2nd owner car with superficial paint damage from roof debris from a hurricane last year (the car was in a warehouse and part of the roof fell.) The body is straight, the interior is above average (no tears in the leather, no cracks in dash.) The miles are correct, the current owner has recently replaced the front brakes, the complete AC system, and the battery. It was purchased 4 years ago to be a first car for a 16 year old who quickly lost interst in it (the dad is well heeled, owns 30+ cars, but this one is not high on his radar...after the AC bill of $2500, the hurricane damage, and the front brakes, he is cutting his losses. It has been sitting for most of 2 years until recently.) The current owner says that it starts quickly, runs well and has never overheated, but he can produce no service records or documented oil change records. I have a compression test and inspection scheduled before I pick it up, but here is my question...

I don't have a trailer or know anyone who does, so I plan on catching Airtran down (the car is just north of Palm Beach) and driving it back to Atlanta, about 600 miles...Assuming everything checks out with the compression, what do I need to do before I drive it back?

I'm excited, but a little worried. I'm over my head a bit.

If you have any thoughts, thanks in advance!

Lafayette (soon to be a proud SDL owner!)

nhdoc · #2 06-25-2006, 06:44 PM

Life's an adventure...roll the dice and take it. I've bought two cars sight-unseen like this. One was a '82 240D that was in West Palm Beach. I flew in and picked it up 5:00 in the afternoon. The next morning, at 5:00 am I started driving home...the car made it nearly 1,800 miles in 3 days without a hiccough. I even went on a side trip to western South Carolina to visit a guy who I knew only through the internet. Turned out he wasn't a serial killer and we had a nice meal at a chain steak place...I had that car checked by a mechanic beforehand, but it was a waste of money. He missed the fact that the rotors were pretty warped (so who uses brakes on the interstate?) but otherwise the car was fine. It drove better the last mile than it did the first, more power and better fuel economy as the trip progressed.

The other car I bought was in Chapel Hill, NC. A '72 280SEL 4.5. Again, flew in at 4:00 in the afternoon and drove nearly 800 miles home in one day with no problems.

The only one I elected to have shipped was my '64 fintail for two reasons...it is a '64 and was in California. Both the low odds of making it 3200+ miles without incident in a 42 year old car and the fact that the cost of the trip would have been more than the cost of shipping it so it made no sense to even consider driving that one.

I guess I just don't mind taking the chance...your trip is shorter than either of mine...I bet you will make it home just fine. If not, spend $60 and join AAA for peace of mind, maybe you'll get a free tow out of them, but probably won't need it.

If you have a tech give it a pre-purchase inspection and check it for safety items first you'll likely make it home without incident. The best thing you can do to an old diesel that has been sitting is drive it on the highway for a nice long trip...it will blow all the crap out that has been bulding up over the past years. Besides, it makes a great story.

DO IT, DO IT!

eyeglassdriver · #3 06-25-2006, 11:39 PM

heh. Thanks Marty. After struggling for 2 decades with a bad VW habit, I gladly pay AAA every year. I'm still way ahead...

H-townbenzoboy · #4 06-25-2006, 11:56 PM

Hmm, purchasing a car sight unseen 600 miles away. I wouldn't do it, for obvious reasons including that:
1.) This is a 19 year old car, things wear out, it's prone to breaking down, I wouldn't take it out on the highway unless I had a mechanic take a look at it, in addition to it having no records. I'm sure there's a
2.) This is eBay, plenty of stories of cars being "anything but".

If you go ahead with it, take the following things with you:
1. spare inline and spin on fuel filter
2. extra quart of motor oil and transmission oil
3. Get AAA, not the regular AAA, but AAA Plus which give you 100 miles of towing.
4. toolkit
5. fix a flat

Plus, you live in Atlanta, big metro area, I'm sure there would be a nice 300SDL for sale there at some time that you can take to a mechanic to get checked out and not worry about breaking down on a rural section of I-75 in the middle of the night.

Hit Man X · #5 06-26-2006, 12:06 AM

Pretty vague for $4k, I'd pass.

eyeglassdriver · #6 06-26-2006, 12:42 AM

Thanks for the concern H-Town, and for the advice! I do have the Plus membership with AAA, and I'm allowing an extra hour at the airport so that I can explain a bag full of mysterious parts and fluids, my tool kit and 1-way ticket to those smart, understanding TSA agents...

Guess the normal thing would be to go into debt and get something that will depreciate 60 percent over the next 4 years...Normal is stupid. I am not entirely risk adverse; I drove a motorcycle through 5 winters before I bought my first car, a 77 VW diesel Dasher wagon. Next came a diesel Rabbit, a couple of $500 Beetles and then all the cars listed below. This Mercedes will bring me full circle, in a way...reminds me of that Dasher, but (like me,) quite a bit more grown up. What better way to start a new relationship with a car that on the side of a country road in the hot Georgia sun?

Lol. Well, doing 90 mph for 7 hours would be better, I guess...

AYSCII · #7 06-26-2006, 08:41 AM

The first concern I would have would be the condition of the head/gasket. If you have read up on this model's engine (OM603) you should be aware of the potential for head issues. Previous owner says she's not been overheated, but you will need confirm there are no head/gasket issuse, at least by checking that there is no oil in the coolant or no signs of pressure in the cooling system when the engine is cold (with a good sealing expansion tank cap on). If the seller can confirm this before travel, all the better. Check for no pressure in the morning when cold, then start the motor with the cap on, then check to see if pressure builds quickly in the first 30-40 seconds after starting from cold. If the pressure build's quickly, it is from a head gasket leak or cracked head, rather than normal pressure building as the car would warm up. (In the first 30-40 seconds, the car has not had time to build the pressure from heat.)

eyeglassdriver · #8 06-26-2006, 09:08 AM

Thanks Steve. The seller is taking it in to the shop as I write this to have the head and compression checked.

I noticed that you are in Raliegh and that you have a 300SDL. I would love to talk to you about it.

I'm working in Raleigh (Wake Forrest) through Wednesday. Would you have a few minutes between now and then to meet and talk cars?

nhdoc · #9 06-26-2006, 10:40 AM

In defense of my prior posting, I didn't say he should buy it without having a pre-purchase inspection, that would be wisest of course. The other thing to do is basically negotiate sending a deposit now (smallest possible) and bring the balance in cash with you so if there are issues you can either walk away or negotiate the difference. If you pay the full price up front you are basically stuck with it regardless of what you think when you get there.

I do think he's pretty safe in that he's buying it from an owner, not a dealer. The owner's had some history with the car. Besides - he can always turn it around and drive it through the seller's house if it turns out to be a lemon...those brakes can fail at any moment

Dervman · #10 06-26-2006, 05:18 PM

Definitely go with the Pre-Purchase inspection. Make sure it is a shop that deals with Mercedes & Diesels, so they know what to look for. You might pay $150 but it is worth it to know what you are getting into. If there is anything requiring immediate attention get an estimate and consider having them do the work. It may be cheaper than risking the hassle and expense of a roadside breakdown.

I bought my SDL from a private owner in Texas 2 years ago and he was most helpful taking the car to a specialist of my choice. I paid the owner a deposit that was refundable based upon the results of the inspection. I sprang for the inspection and decided to purchase the car. I also had the car serviced (it was due) and had a few repairs done for peace of mind. I FedExed a box to the owner containing my tool kit and other stuff I might need on the drive home - much easier than persauding an airline to let you carry it with you. I then flew down, paid the balance owing and drove the 1640 miles home (in 23.5 hours) with no problems or issues whatsoever (apart from the $200 speeding ticket outside Dallas !!).

Good luck.

dieseldiehard · #11 06-26-2006, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dervman

Definitely go with the Pre-Purchase inspection. Make sure it is a shop that deals with Mercedes & Diesels, so they know what to look for. You might pay $150 but it is worth it to know what you are getting into. If there is anything requiring immediate attention get an estimate and consider having them do the work. It may be cheaper than risking the hassle and expense of a roadside breakdown.

I bought my SDL from a private owner in Texas 2 years ago and he was most helpful taking the car to a specialist of my choice. I paid the owner a deposit that was refundable based upon the results of the inspection. I sprang for the inspection and decided to purchase the car. I also had the car serviced (it was due) and had a few repairs done for peace of mind. I FedExed a box to the owner containing my tool kit and other stuff I might need on the drive home - much easier than persauding an airline to let you carry it with you. I then flew down, paid the balance owing and drove the 1640 miles home (in 23.5 hours) with no problems or issues whatsoever (apart from the $200 speeding ticket outside Dallas !!).

Good luck.

Ouch!
I know a Texan, lives in Dallas. He drove up to Seattle on business and back, he doesn't drive a MB he has a Cadillac STS but the story is he drives fast all the time and is like a hawk looking for police and radar traps. Got all the way back to within 60 miles of home and got the only speeding ticket on the trip! That must tell you something!
Seriously though the SDL is a great car, I believe you got a keeper!
PPI is highly advisable when buying anything with a 603 engine and you really need an Indy or even a dealer who knows that engine to do an inspection. The rest is pretty normal stuff.

dkveuro · #12 06-27-2006, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeglassdriver

.....................................It has been sitting for most of 2 years until recently.) The current owner says that it starts quickly, runs well and has never overheated, but he can produce no service records or documented oil change records. I have a compression test and inspection scheduled before I pick it up, but here is my question...
........................................................................Assuming everything checks out with the compression, what do I need to do before I drive it back?

I'm excited, but a little worried. I'm over my head a bit.

If you have any thoughts, thanks in advance!

Lafayette (soon to be a proud SDL owner!)

Well, I service a few of these 86/7 motors and have to say they are as reliable as servicing can make them.

The car rusts at the rear of the front wheel arch.
The engine is prone to head cracking, although the last one I did had 179,000 miles on it.

Another lost the oil pump due to picking up a small metalic part that locked the pump and took the engine out too. (1 mile or so, at 70 mph.)

Another is running great at over 200,000 miles and what's more I have yet to have one with a blown tranny....although it does happen, I'm told.

Reaction rods pound out the socket assembly at the body mount....not so difficult to renew....kit form from MB specialist....but after, the car needs MB to set the alignment.

Engine mounts are still frail.

Mufflers last well, unless near the sea.

Should have had the refit for the trap oxidizer done already...

A/c compressors do NOT like refitting to R134A as it seems to ruin the compressor front seal on origonal equipment.

Seat switches act up a lot as does the window lifts.

Heavy car, but runs good ....as long as turbo puts out.

Hard on front brakes if a lot of town use.

Aprt from that as reliable as any car in my opinion...especially concidering it's age.

Remove radiator cap 'cold'....any residual pressure means combustion gases in the coolant system......start engine after replacing the rad' cap and ANY increase in hose pressure within 30 second, indicates signs of head problems.

I would deactivate the EGR valve.....these engines plug up the intake real bad as they age...especially if they are slow driven.

If you can afford a couple of thousand in preventive service the next 12 months, it's a good buy.

I would suggest an oil change before you set off in it too....fast lub' place of your choosing.

.

dieseldiehard · #13 06-28-2006, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkveuro

Well, I service a few of these 86/7 motors and have to say they are as reliable as servicing can make them.

The car rusts at the rear of the front wheel arch.
The engine is prone to head cracking, although the last one I did had 179,000 miles on it.

Another lost the oil pump due to picking up a small metalic part that locked the pump and took the engine out too. (1 mile or so, at 70 mph.)

Another is running great at over 200,000 miles and what's more I have yet to have one with a blown tranny....although it does happen, I'm told.

Reaction rods pound out the socket assembly at the body mount....not so difficult to renew....kit form from MB specialist....but after, the car needs MB to set the alignment.

Engine mounts are still frail.

Mufflers last well, unless near the sea.

Should have had the refit for the trap oxidizer done already...

A/c compressors do NOT like refitting to R134A as it seems to ruin the compressor front seal on origonal equipment.

Seat switches act up a lot as does the window lifts.

Heavy car, but runs good ....as long as turbo puts out.

Hard on front brakes if a lot of town use.

Aprt from that as reliable as any car in my opinion...especially concidering it's age.

Remove radiator cap 'cold'....any residual pressure means combustion gases in the coolant system......start engine after replacing the rad' cap and ANY increase in hose pressure within 30 second, indicates signs of head problems.

I would deactivate the EGR valve.....these engines plug up the intake real bad as they age...especially if they are slow driven.

If you can afford a couple of thousand in preventive service the next 12 months, it's a good buy.

I would suggest an oil change before you set off in it too....fast lub' place of your choosing.
.

I would avoid JiffyLube otherwise everything is right on. Add one point, the Vacuum Pump must be replaced if its the old version. The new version has 4 torx-head bolts holding the cover on.
The small metal parts that lock up the engine or oil pump (and locks up the timing chain in my experience) probably came from the vac pump.

dkveuro · #14 06-28-2006, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

I would avoid JiffyLube otherwise everything is right on. Add one point, the Vacuum Pump must be replaced if its the old version. The new version has 4 torx-head bolts holding the cover on.
The small metal parts that lock up the engine or oil pump (and locks up the timing chain in my experience) probably came from the vac pump.

Thanx for the endorsement Dieseld'........

I would say, the vac' pump is number one cause of oil pump lock ups too....one thing I did omit was, the belt tensioner shock assembley...they'll make a lot of noise at idle and sound like the a/c compressor clutch is failing.....simple test is to push down on tensioner arm and see if noise goes away.

About the 'Iffy Lub' outfits...They all carry 'Stupidity Insurance'...prove they killed your engine...with the aid of an independent engineers report, and they pay the bill.

Not many shops in 'general repair' busines can say/do that.

.

dieseldiehard · #15 07-15-2006, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkveuro

Thanx for the endorsement Dieseld'........

I would say, the vac' pump is number one cause of oil pump lock ups too....one thing I did omit was, the belt tensioner shock assembley...they'll make a lot of noise at idle and sound like the a/c compressor clutch is failing.....simple test is to push down on tensioner arm and see if noise goes away.

About the 'Iffy Lub' outfits...They all carry 'Stupidity Insurance'...prove they killed your engine...with the aid of an independent engineers report, and they pay the bill.

Not many shops in 'general repair' busines can say/do that.

.

When the Vac Pump locks up it locks the IP. The small bits and pieces probably get into the oil pump. I saw what it did to one engine. Bad news! You couldn't turn the crank come hell or high water.
re: Iffy Loob/Jiffy Boob
Well, they must have lost a lot of engines and paid out too much $$ under that insurance because some Iffy Lubes in So CA have a new policy: They No longer accept Mercedes diesels for service! What do you think caused them to adopt that?