If you are talking about step #6, you are basically just doing a leak check of the modulator. Sometimes the little black rubber cap, on the modulator, has cracks and needs to be replaced or the modulator itself is leaking.

Steps 7 through 11 are for checking and adjusting the vacuum control valve on the IP. You are looking for vacuum, to the transmission modulator, to drop to nearly zero with full throttle.

From going through this procedure myself, I believe the bowden cable, modulator pressure and vacuum control valve all factor in on the shifting. Until you go through the adjustments, it is hard to tell which one is not working as it should.

got er done
 

Thanks blue , I had no vac at the IP at all, blockage right up by the fuse box was to blame. Any idea how you adjust the modulator... as in how much or little vac it should be set to ,or is it a shoot from the hip kind of thing?

The adjustment of the modulator is in the link that I provided you. The modulator is set according to pump pressures of a particular model. From when I replaced mine, I recall the pressure reading should be 40.

But, just tweaking the modulator is not going to resolve this. You need to ensure the vacuum control valve at the IP is set properly. As reported in that link, if rack movement doesn't coincide with the proper range of vacuum, the shifts will either be rough and too soon or result in flaring.