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#16
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If you are talking about step #6, you are basically just doing a leak check of the modulator. Sometimes the little black rubber cap, on the modulator, has cracks and needs to be replaced or the modulator itself is leaking.
Steps 7 through 11 are for checking and adjusting the vacuum control valve on the IP. You are looking for vacuum, to the transmission modulator, to drop to nearly zero with full throttle. From going through this procedure myself, I believe the bowden cable, modulator pressure and vacuum control valve all factor in on the shifting. Until you go through the adjustments, it is hard to tell which one is not working as it should.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#17
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got er done
Thanks blue , I had no vac at the IP at all, blockage right up by the fuse box was to blame. Any idea how you adjust the modulator... as in how much or little vac it should be set to ,or is it a shoot from the hip kind of thing?
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#18
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Quote:
But, just tweaking the modulator is not going to resolve this. You need to ensure the vacuum control valve at the IP is set properly. As reported in that link, if rack movement doesn't coincide with the proper range of vacuum, the shifts will either be rough and too soon or result in flaring.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
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