Looking at a 1983 300sd, and have questions
 

I'm hunting for my first MB (joining ranks with my Dad, a MB owner), and am looking at a 1983 300SD on Friday.

Is there a list of known/common issues that I should look for? I'm going to try and get it to a MB dealer for a check-up before tendering cash, but I want to make sure that it's at least somewhat viable.

Also, any comments on price? I has some noticable body rust (welcome to the midwest), with a little over 200k miles.

-Nathan

Hi

I have an 83 300sd and am not a "power mechanic" but I can certainly give you some basic advice.

The power trains of these cars will give long service provided basic maintenance like oil changes, coolant changes and transmission fluid changes have been properly and routinely done. If you have no confidence the vehicle has been maintained, pass on it. An abused Mercedes can quickly become a vacuum cleaner for dollar bills.

Test drive it for sure. Floor the throttle at low speed and make sure there is no excessive black smoke. Does it shift reasonably smoothly and does kick down work? These could be simple control system issues or something much more expensive to fix.

Check out the climate control system. Does the AC and heat work and will it maintain the temperature set on the dial? This is not a fatal flaw but certain parts are expensive to replace.

Check the lights, power windows, power seats, condition of the tires and brakes, sun roof operation. The seller should tell you in advance what is broken. If you have to find out for yourself - wrong seller. Too many inoperative systems - poor maintenance.

Finally, look for a garage with a mechanic who knows these older MB's. A dealership may not have anyone who works on 83 300sd's regularly, in which case an independent mechanic may be a better bet for your inspection.

Rust = bad
 

Nathan,

This is just my two cents worth; I'm sure many more knowledgeable (and mechanically inclined) members will jump in soon. If I were you, I would hunt until I found one without rust. If the jack-points and floor-boards are at all compromised, I wouldn't think the car would be worth much. Your post says "noticable body rust" so maybe there just a couple of spots behind the wheel-wells...but seeing as how there quite of few of these cars out on the road still, I'd try to find one without body cancer. Unless you're a whiz at body work, or want something to learn on, it's just going to get worse, and it's a pain to repair, assuming that it can be fixed... I personally wouldn't pay any more than $1500 for one with noticable rust, even if the rest of the car was in primo condition with all accessories working. As with any used car, maintenance records are a plus; these motors will last well past 200k with proper maintenance, but without it, it could well be on its last leg. Good luck with your search--a pre-purchase inspection is a GREAT idea, so you're on the right track there...

--Chris

Rust pics
 

I don't have any specifics on the rust, only a couple of pics from the Seller. I have attached both for review/comments.

The rust near the trunk is confined to the area in the pic.

This site has been a HUGE help in my MB hunt/education. Now that remains the purchase.

I may take a brief road trip to look at a very clean 240D, but want to chase this one down first.

-Nathan

That's a lot of rust, I'd pass unless it's cheap. It also depends on what you are looking for. Somthing to get you around for awhile as you satiate your diesel disire, or something to get you around for a long, long time?

Do a search, this has come up many times in the past.

W126's have very specific rust out spots, bring a screw driver. Poke the frame rails if it goes through pass, poke the jack points, if they crush pass. Under the rear windows also rust out, lift the gasket and take a look.

Once the frame rails rot out, its ready for the crusher in my book.

That pic of the jack-point looks pretty awful. If that 240d you mentioned is rust free, I'd say give it a look. Unless the seller wants almost nothing for the SD, I'd pass, and even that's if it's just to play around with. As they say, there are many fish in the sea...

It depends what you want out of the car. I think I have an interesting perspective because my two W126's are like night and day. The SDL is a rust free, pampared car. While the SD is driven hard and extremly rusty.

Its all what you want out of the car. The SD has two jack points that are not usable and an amazing amount of rust. But it runs good enough and cost me $500. I am only looking for a cheap ride for two winters. If it lasts until this May and I can sell it for anything I'll be very happy.

The SDL I don't plan on selling, so a rust free body is essential.


If you want a nice example your going to keep for awhile go the extra mile and buy a good straight one.

not sure if california is close to you, but
 

at least this will give you a clue what theese can be had for.
also search craigs list and ebay motors for SD and you will be suprised what you can find. Locally here in NC, there are plenty of clean SD's for under 2K, so DO not pay much for that badly rusted body.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-1985-300-TURBO-DEISEL-4-DOOR_W0QQitemZ200017243604QQihZ010QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
John

Do yourself a favor and pass on a rust bucket like that. And do yourself a bigger favor and DONT go poking someone elses car with a screwdriver. If the rust looks that bad, it prolly is and the last thing you want to do is poke a small home with your screwdriver and turn it into a large hole on a car you dont own.