Why Disable the EGR?
 

Can someone tell me what difference this will make? What changes will I notice?

Thanks
:)

Slightly more power. Slightly better fuel mileage. It will also keep the inside of your intake manifold cleaner as soot and oil grime will not build up in it.

thats if you remove the intake and clean out all the crud that was in their pre EGR removal...

a car with a working EGR and ARV(air recirculating valve) bad for us good for the EPA

a car with working EGR and non working ARV, bad for us and the EPA

a car with non working EGR and non working ARG.. bad for us and bad for the epa

a car with an EGR removed and testing plate;) installed and working ARV.. good for us, bad for the EPA

Disable EGR valve? Hadn't heard about that, how is it done?






xafman

84 300DT 182,000 mi

Ummm... IMHO the ARV is worse than the EGR as it keeps your boost low. In fact without EGR the ARV provides no benifits in emissions what so ever. It even makes them worse because it dumps air out of the turbo that you burned fuel to compress.

Best performance No EGR and No ARV.
Worst performance working EGR and ARV

Best emissions working EGR and ARV
Worst emissions No EGR and working ARV

Interesting; what is the point of the ARV in the first place?

--Matt

I removed all that junk for offroad use only on my 300SD. My boost was a lackluster 8psi before LOL Anyway, added the MBC and it's 12psi now... runs a lot better on the freeway.

ive been trying to find a compressor housing for the KKK without the ARV on it.

I got one. I was going to put it on my SD but I don't think I am going ot now.

do gassers have these too?

Yes on the EGR. It's needed usually to help reduce NOx levels. I have it blocked off on both of my trucks and removed on the 420.

Air Recirculation Valve

The ARV lowers the intake pressure to allow more exhaust gas flow through the EGR. It let's the exhaust manifold have a higher pressure ratio to the intake manifold.

No EGR, No ARV is the best for any 300D. They only hurt performance, MPG, and reliability.

How would one go about removing/bypassing the EGR?

Simply remove and plug the vac line.

To remove, drop Brian C a line... he makes nice kits. I put one on my SDL

Before I removed my EGR, I turned it off by putting a BB in the vac line, and taking a soda can and cutting a plate out of it and installing it between my Intake Maniforld and the EGR Valve. I used 2 EGR gaskets, one on each side of the soda can plate.

My dad has used the Soda can plate on all his cars, that way no one can see that the EGR has been blocked, and its easly removed (on Gassers) for SMOG testing.

ARV Disabling... how to?
 

How would one go about disabling the ARV? I am having my EGR disabled as we speak via the blocking plate method, but if I coul dhave more boost without the ARV, I would like to disable that as well... Can anyone give directions on how to do so???:confused:

I dont have a turbo, but a soda can seems a mite thin :eek: with all the heat in the vicinity, how long have you been running with it?

BB's have been known to some how get lodged in the vacuum line that connects to the ARV on the turbo.

Aha...
 

Oh, I see... the old 'errant BB' scam... I hear ya! Let's see... you can buy BB's at Wal-Mart, right???

Here's some photos of a little nicer solution... another forum member (Brian Carlton?) sells a block-off plate to cover the hole left by the EGR. My EGR valve was leaking externally, so the BB trick wasn't cutting it anymore.

More photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_intake/

http://www.w124performance.com/image...EGR_after2.jpg

Removing the EGR will increase the cylinder temp, give you better fuel mileage and more power and increase NoX. Letting the EGR do its thing will lower NoX but raise Co, soot up your engine, reduce fuel mileage and lower cylinder temps, and reduce power slightly.

Its up to you whether you do it or not, I hate the EGR. That is all I will say as big brother (EPA) monitors this site for violators.:silly:

I ran the Soda can for about 2 years, and then about 3 weeks ago i made my own block off plate like the one pictured above.

The BB is the real trick, it keeps the vaccum from opening the valve. :scholar:

and its was a little thicker then an average soda can because i used an Arazona Tea can :D

Here's a few past threads regarding removal of the EGR:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140290&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=136433&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=143334&highlight=EGR

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=114610

That's a pretty clean looking setup. I bought a piece of sheet metal from Lowes and cut it to the shape of the OE gasket. It wasn't nearly as pretty as this setup but I guess it's doing the job.
I then removed the EGR and slipped the new plate inbetween with new gaskets on each side, then reattached the EGR. It's difficult to see the metal plate blocking the EGR valve plus we don't have emmisions inspections in the San Antonio area. I think I'm seeing an increase in performace.

I love my '92 300D 2.5T.

Glad it's back...
 

I'm glad this thread is back - I was wondering why it was suddenly closed and then disappeared! :)

If you disable the EGR on almost any MB diesel from 1990-93, you will lose power, because the wastegate is computer controlled (unlike the 1989 and older models). The computer senses the lack of exhaust gasses, and then cuts the boost. To properly disable the EGR on these cars - without power loss - takes a lot more work. Test your 1990-93 300D 2.5T from 0-60 on a flat road with a stopwatch... it should be 13 seconds, approx. If it's much slower than that (say, 15+ seconds) your engine is not delivering normal power. Just an FYI... there are a couple of threads on this subject elsewhere in this forum, from a year or two ago.

:cool: