Okay so I bought a really nice 85' MB 300TD. Drove it 5 hours home and every switch and button worked great. I can only find two things to fix. Please help with the first.

1) One of the fuel lines leaks in two spots where a previous owner patched it with rubber hosing. Apparently you can't get replacement lines. So I need to bend and flare my own. I have completely redone brake lines in a few 60's autos so I know I can handle the task. My question is anyone who has done this, what SIZE and kind of line should I get. Any potential issues problems I should look out for?

2) There is water under the drivers side mat after driving in 3 hours of rain on the trip. I can't see it leaking form above, the windshield was replaced (Mercedes glass even) and re-sealed once. The floor is not rusted so I want to catch this, tried a hose today and couldn't get it too leak. Could it be coming from the floor, any typical places it could be coming from?

I am new to diesel and Mercedes
Eric

I find it a little hard to believe that you "can't" get replacement brake lines, have you tried the dealer. The dealer can usually get you just about anything for these cars, for a price.

The usual source for this leak is the bottom corner of the windshield. Also take a look at all the rubber grommets where the wires and vacuum lines and speedo cable pass through the firewall and make sure they are all in place.

I would try to find some injector lines at the junkyard. Much cheaper that way.

Might check on the door seals and window seals for the leak.

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The fuel leak is at the rubber holder underneath the drivers side of the car. We aren't replacing rubber here and in fact I have been told by many MB people/enthusiats that they don't make 123 fuel line replacements just the rubber parts.

I don't mind bending and flaring, just wanted some help on the size or potential problems pbefoer I start tearing it apart.

Eric

I just priced replacement lines at the dealer. These are for
the 300D (not TD).

Supply and return line were priced at $44 each and readily available.

I'd be surprised if you can't find lines for the wagon.

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

Unless you have a lift, forget about replacing entire lines. It is not possible to get the angles to get them in. I had a similar problem once, and the fix is still going strong. Check out this thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111821

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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD
1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick

Thank you very much. Patching the lines here and there sounds like a bigger headache, was the possibility of replacing the whole line just to har din the rear of the vehicle. I was going to drop the whole thing out tomorrow morning and go get the 5 ft sections of line and try to make the bends and fit it in. Without a lift though you are saying I won't be able to get it up there huh? reminds me of re-plumbing my 65' Fairlane wagon with all new brake lines....

I was hoping someone had done them and had encouraging news... blah, we will see.

Eric

Everything forward of the axle carrier is straightforward. Now from the axle carrier to the tank it's a different story. Could be different on TD, though...

You may do just fine using sections. I was referring to the lines that come new as one piece. Start at the tank so it gets easier as you go along...

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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD
1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick

I was trying to see why everyone is saying a wagon is different... I look up and doh I typed 300td, I do have a 300D ... Daughter was in my lap and didn't mean that typo... doh...

So 5/16"s line works then...

Will post how it goes.

Eric

I have not done them. I was told that in order to get them in, the rear subframe needs to be dropped. I crawled under and looked, and I agree.

I'm going to patch temporarily, rebuild the front suspension (already scheduled) then reassess the fuel lines.

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

SO....My rear brakes blew out, so I fixed them by running a new length of hardline from the master cyl. back to the rear axle..not too bad of a job. When I tried to start the car after words it started right up then died after 30 seconds. I did a little investigating and found that the Priming pump (hand operated) was not pumping ANY diesel (I disconnected pump output line to test)...moreover, it was pumping WVO just fine (when I switched the intake valve). I'm thinking that I may have busted loose one of the incredibly rusted fuel lines while I was monkeying around getting the brake line into place and into those annoying rubber spacers (which seem to be the #1 place for rusting). Does this sound like a probable diagnosis? One of the fuel lines felt like it had a lot of give towards the fuel tank. How hard is it to replace the fuel lines from the tank all the way to the front of the car...would replacing all the line with rubber fuel line be OK (I'm kinda in a bind for $$ and time) Do I need to drop the fuel tank to gain access to where the fuel line enters/exits the tank? Unfortunately my car is 100 miles away and I only have weekend access to it so I need to get all my ducks in a row before next weekend. Thanks a lot

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

Oops, I meant to make this a new thread...

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'85 300td Frybrid WVO Kit

Both the feed and return lines on my wagon were leaking under the subframe. Rather than drop the subframe and replace the lines I just used rubber hose.

Check my thread with pics:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=209382

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

My 81 240D had water in the rear floor pans. Came in from behind the front wheels,down the side rails and entered rear floor pan through small rust holes by the front seat belt mounts. Patched front wheel wells. Opened side rail drains. Bondoed iner side holes and problem solved for now. Water came in from the bottom not the top.

You can get rolls of the steel hardline, unflared, in 25 ft lengths for like $10 at Kragen or Autozone. It's actually not that hard to run the lines - I had to make new lines for my WVO setup, and it was really easy. Doing the bends around the rear suspension setup were a bit tricky, but if you're patient, you can gently bend them with your hands and snake it through. I normally wouldn't recommend anything quite that ghetto, but it worked pretty decently for the very large radius curves you'll encounter back there. Definitely get a hickey or a bender for the front of the car, and plumb up the back first. Once that's in, it's pretty much a straight shot.

Another helpful hint: if you're careful, you should be able to get a set of Rhino Ramps under both the front and rear sets of tires simultaneously. Getting the car up on those made running the lines easier - not as easy as a lift, but definitely doable. And, if you get tired, you can more easily use the old mechanic's trick of hooking your hands on the undercarriage and falling asleep (just make sure you have the keys to the vehicle). Everyone always thinks you're working...