Removed my ALDA and WOW!!!
 

What a difference. I really liked the car before but now it is great. Wasn't too hard either. I just followed the instructions in this thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=160793 You just have to remember where the vacuum lines go. The car was a dog from zero to 20 but great after that. After removing the ALDA I don't have to give it 3/4 thottle to get up to speed. It accelerates nicely from zero with little throttle. The shifts are smoother also. I guess because I don't give it so much throttle demand. If I step on it it produces some smoke, but I can live with that. I realize I now have no overboost protection but I don't drive it hard anyway. I guess I can now sell the ALDA on Ebay!

Muleears ,where is Franklin Va ?.
Alan

Make sure it's good first. You don't want to get neg feedback from such a minor item if it turns out broken.

believe google answers some questions...........
 

I live about 5 mi. from Franklin. Franklin is about 40 mi. SW of Norfolk in SE Virginia. I actually don't live there yet, I'm buying there. Currently I live in Norfolk.

i still cant get my alda off

What's the problem?

i need to remove injector line #5 to get a second wrench under the top one i removed an alda from an IP in my shop .. but it was in a vice with no injector lines..

Just remove all the hard lines as a group. It's no more than five minutes to break and loosen the 10 nuts. Maybe 10 minutes to go back on. Screwing around with the small retangular brackets is a PITA.

yea i was going to do it that way anyways... ill do it soon.. or eventually.. thanks

You want to set up your throttle pressure more now because you are now getting more power with less throttle. This will help the transmission.

Be careful for the first time you put them back on. Sometimes the hard lines don't align perfectly with the injectors. Force them by hand to align. Bend them if necessary. Start the nuts by hand and make sure you have at least two good turns before you put a wrench to them. They'll strip if you're not careful to force them directly over the injector while turning the nut.

How does one attack the 617 rear IP mounting bolt? I tried everything and I can't get to it. Oil cooler lines make it impossible to turn when I get a wrench on it. :confused:

Well, the first thing you do is to consume the better part of a six pack........because you're going to need it..........:mad:

You're trying to get to it from below.........not going to happen.

From the top, you'll need to make a little bed on top of the engine so that you can lay across the head and peer down between the oil filter housing and the IP.

About 10" down, and barely visible, is the head of the screw that allows the IP to rotate. A very long box wrench will snag it, but, you won't be able to move the wrench because the rack dampening bolt is in the way. So, you either remove the bolt, or you bend up the box wrench with a torch to avoid the bolt.

I took me 45 minutes to find the head of that bolt and snag it the first time I attempted it. BTW, you only crack it loose, maybe 1/2 of a turn, to allow the IP to rotate. You only get 1/12 of a turn each time you get the wrench on the bolt..........six successful attempts required to get 1/2 turn. A gearwrench would be a godsend, but, it might be too short.

Like I said.........you're going to need that Bass Ale..........;)

Ah... so I guess the hangover was what the problem was. Maybe a little "hair of the dog" will help.

Looks like I'll have to make a tool for this job.