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  #16  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:29 PM
Surf-n-Turf
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Personally, I don't think I would spend $700 on the old axles because they will still be old and will eventually have to be replaced anyway. Besides, are you sure you didn't get any dirt into them through the old boots? Do you have a quote to have the reman. axles installed? It shouldn't be that much more than $700.
Oh man, I'm sorry Craig. You even told me about those guys in CO. 1 week and I'm forgetting allready. I probably oughtta stop drinking so much....naaa

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  #17  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:32 PM
Craig
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Oh man, I'm sorry Craig. You even told me about those guys in CO. 1 week and I'm forgetting allready. I probably oughtta stop drinking so much....naaa
LOL
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:49 PM
deniss's Avatar
'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
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Ok, I just had a look under the rear and took some pics of the axle boots. While 3 boots are dry and intact (although severely cracked up on passenger side axle), the inner boot on the driver side ripped in two...

Passenger Side:



Driver Side:



Differential (from underneath):


I have to point out that the boots are shaped very differently on the two axles, which leads me to believe that one axle must have been replaced at some point... Also, I am not sure which would be the original axle. The dealer told me that they have boots for annular and homokinetic axles, and he told me that the difference is in some bolt somewhere or something, but I can't remember what exactly he said by now... What's the difference between homokinetic and annular axles?
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:55 PM
Surf-n-Turf
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Doesn't it look like in the 3rd picture down, the seperated boot, that metal filings were almost like thrown on there. Looks almost suspicious to me.

Irregargless it should be replaced at that point.IMHO

edit: plus the bigger band is missing on that one 2+2 together looks fishy to me.
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:56 PM
deniss's Avatar
'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
Posts: 452
Here is a view on the Differential mount:



Here's an overview of the passenger side axle:

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  #21  
Old 09-06-2006, 03:59 PM
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'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf-n-Turf View Post
Doesn't it look like in the 3rd picture down, the seperated boot, that metal filings were almost like thrown on there. Looks almost suspicious to me.

Irregargless it should be replaced at that point.IMHO
You know, I didn't notice those glittery particles until I took the picture with a flash and looked at it on my PC... Still not sure what the heck that stuff is... Unless it was something thrown out of the torn boot, but I am not sure...
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2006, 04:15 PM
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You can go to NAPA and buy good rebuilt half shafts for $70. a side.
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2006, 05:37 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
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The condition of the axle with the torn boot is the question.

If it's only been torn a short period of time, CVJ axles in Denver can install new boots for relatively low cost.

However, since a torn boot allows all the oil to run out of the joint, it's unlikely that the joint will be serviceable.

CVJ can also rebuild that axle at additional cost.

The remans at the McParts places are a crapshoot. More than likely, you'll be doing the job again in a couple of years.

The cost at the dealer is absurd.
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  #24  
Old 09-06-2006, 06:31 PM
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'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
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******** Arizona sells CVJ remanned axles...

Axle with Homokinetic Joint: $186.89, Core $50.00 (MBZ073629)

Axle with Annular Joint: $204.68, Core $100.00 (MBZ056738)

Now... How do I know whether I have a homokinetic or annular axle and which of these do I want to buy??
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  #25  
Old 09-06-2006, 06:43 PM
Surf-n-Turf
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******** Arizona sells CVJ remanned axles...

Axle with Homokinetic Joint: $186.89, Core $50.00 (MBZ073629)

Axle with Annular Joint: $204.68, Core $100.00 (MBZ056738)

Now... How do I know whether I have a homokinetic or annular axle and which of these do I want to buy??
Deniss, I wish I could answer that one because it seems like noone else knows either. I know you have asked several times so far.
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2006, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf-n-Turf View Post
Deniss, I wish I could answer that one because it seems like noone else knows either. I know you have asked several times so far.
same here.. not that i have a w126 its nice to know since my boots are all cracked and torn... and both are different styles!
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2006, 09:59 PM
deniss's Avatar
'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
Posts: 452
Ok, from searching around on this forum and Schuman Automotive forum, I think I found some answers to my questions. I'll summarize them here, so others could learn and those who are more knowledgeable could correct me if I'm wrong

The axles with homokinetic inner joints were the earlier design, which was later (around 1986?) replaced by axles with annular inner joints. The homokinetic inner joints have these large crimped-on cans, as shown in my pictures above. On the other hand, the annular inner joints come with a bolt-on flange. The advantage of the annular joints is that when you need to replace the axle, you simply unbolt it from the flange and from the wheel hub, and it slides out, without needing to open up and drain the differential and unhook those circle clips. The homokinetic joint, on the other hand, affords no such luxury, and you need to go inside the differential and unclip the inner joint from there.

Apparently, the axles with annular and homokinetic inner joints are interchangeable, and you can even use one on one side and the other on the other side. However, from what I read, you may require some "shims" to be installed (inside the differential?) if you are converting from homokinetic to annular.

In other words, it's probably more convenient for future repairs to have annular joints, but you may require shims to convert from the old style. I am not sure if there are any other advantages between using one style or the other.

I believe both of mine are homokinetic, and homokinetic ones are a little cheaper.
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  #28  
Old 09-06-2006, 10:28 PM
Surf-n-Turf
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Originally Posted by deniss View Post
Ok, from searching around on this forum and Schuman Automotive forum, I think I found some answers to my questions. I'll summarize them here, so others could learn and those who are more knowledgeable could correct me if I'm wrong

The axles with homokinetic inner joints were the earlier design, which was later (around 1986?) replaced by axles with annular inner joints. The homokinetic inner joints have these large crimped-on cans, as shown in my pictures above. On the other hand, the annular inner joints come with a bolt-on flange. The advantage of the annular joints is that when you need to replace the axle, you simply unbolt it from the flange and from the wheel hub, and it slides out, without needing to open up and drain the differential and unhook those circle clips. The homokinetic joint, on the other hand, affords no such luxury, and you need to go inside the differential and unclip the inner joint from there.

Apparently, the axles with annular and homokinetic inner joints are interchangeable, and you can even use one on one side and the other on the other side. However, from what I read, you may require some "shims" to be installed (inside the differential?) if you are converting from homokinetic to annular.

In other words, it's probably more convenient for future repairs to have annular joints, but you may require shims to convert from the old style. I am not sure if there are any other advantages between using one style or the other.

I believe both of mine are homokinetic, and homokinetic ones are a little cheaper.
Cool invesigative work. So my new one is annular. You can visually see allen bolts that hold them together. I'm glad to see you got your answer finally.
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  #29  
Old 09-06-2006, 10:38 PM
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Location: Littlestown PA ( 6 miles south of Gettysburg)
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Here is some additional information....
According to my Nichols/Chilton Labor Guide the time to replace rear axle shafts
1981-85 300SD.....2.4 hrs for one sdie, 4.4 hours for both
replace boots each (axle) 1.7 hours

so the total labor for both axles and all boots should be 7.8 hours For that $4000 estimate their shop rate must be about $500 per hour. Wow!

There is a thread somewhere about a replacement boot that is one piece, and more flexible than OEM. This boot uses an air tool to spread the boot over the joint. It takes very little time to do, but you have to buy the tool. or find a shop that has one.

Skip the split boots. I have yet to see one that actually worked.
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  #30  
Old 09-07-2006, 12:06 PM
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'84 300SD W126/OM617
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central NJ, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
You can go to NAPA and buy good rebuilt half shafts for $70. a side.
I called NAPA here in NJ, and they can't get an axle for me... Maybe NAPA in Calif. is different...

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