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#16
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#17
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LOL
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#18
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Ok, I just had a look under the rear and took some pics of the axle boots. While 3 boots are dry and intact (although severely cracked up on passenger side axle), the inner boot on the driver side ripped in two...
Passenger Side: Driver Side: Differential (from underneath): I have to point out that the boots are shaped very differently on the two axles, which leads me to believe that one axle must have been replaced at some point... Also, I am not sure which would be the original axle. The dealer told me that they have boots for annular and homokinetic axles, and he told me that the difference is in some bolt somewhere or something, but I can't remember what exactly he said by now... What's the difference between homokinetic and annular axles?
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#19
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Doesn't it look like in the 3rd picture down, the seperated boot, that metal filings were almost like thrown on there. Looks almost suspicious to me.
Irregargless it should be replaced at that point.IMHO edit: plus the bigger band is missing on that one 2+2 together looks fishy to me. |
#20
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Here is a view on the Differential mount:
Here's an overview of the passenger side axle:
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#21
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You know, I didn't notice those glittery particles until I took the picture with a flash and looked at it on my PC... Still not sure what the heck that stuff is... Unless it was something thrown out of the torn boot, but I am not sure...
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#22
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You can go to NAPA and buy good rebuilt half shafts for $70. a side.
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
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The condition of the axle with the torn boot is the question.
If it's only been torn a short period of time, CVJ axles in Denver can install new boots for relatively low cost. However, since a torn boot allows all the oil to run out of the joint, it's unlikely that the joint will be serviceable. CVJ can also rebuild that axle at additional cost. The remans at the McParts places are a crapshoot. More than likely, you'll be doing the job again in a couple of years. The cost at the dealer is absurd. |
#24
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******** Arizona sells CVJ remanned axles...
Axle with Homokinetic Joint: $186.89, Core $50.00 (MBZ073629) Axle with Annular Joint: $204.68, Core $100.00 (MBZ056738) Now... How do I know whether I have a homokinetic or annular axle and which of these do I want to buy??
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#25
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#26
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same here.. not that i have a w126 its nice to know since my boots are all cracked and torn... and both are different styles!
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#27
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Ok, from searching around on this forum and Schuman Automotive forum, I think I found some answers to my questions. I'll summarize them here, so others could learn and those who are more knowledgeable could correct me if I'm wrong
The axles with homokinetic inner joints were the earlier design, which was later (around 1986?) replaced by axles with annular inner joints. The homokinetic inner joints have these large crimped-on cans, as shown in my pictures above. On the other hand, the annular inner joints come with a bolt-on flange. The advantage of the annular joints is that when you need to replace the axle, you simply unbolt it from the flange and from the wheel hub, and it slides out, without needing to open up and drain the differential and unhook those circle clips. The homokinetic joint, on the other hand, affords no such luxury, and you need to go inside the differential and unclip the inner joint from there. Apparently, the axles with annular and homokinetic inner joints are interchangeable, and you can even use one on one side and the other on the other side. However, from what I read, you may require some "shims" to be installed (inside the differential?) if you are converting from homokinetic to annular. In other words, it's probably more convenient for future repairs to have annular joints, but you may require shims to convert from the old style. I am not sure if there are any other advantages between using one style or the other. I believe both of mine are homokinetic, and homokinetic ones are a little cheaper.
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
#28
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#29
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Here is some additional information....
According to my Nichols/Chilton Labor Guide the time to replace rear axle shafts 1981-85 300SD.....2.4 hrs for one sdie, 4.4 hours for both replace boots each (axle) 1.7 hours so the total labor for both axles and all boots should be 7.8 hours For that $4000 estimate their shop rate must be about $500 per hour. Wow! There is a thread somewhere about a replacement boot that is one piece, and more flexible than OEM. This boot uses an air tool to spread the boot over the joint. It takes very little time to do, but you have to buy the tool. or find a shop that has one. Skip the split boots. I have yet to see one that actually worked.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#30
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I called NAPA here in NJ, and they can't get an axle for me... Maybe NAPA in Calif. is different...
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84 300SD - bought in April '06 with 237,000 mi |
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