I went out to eat tonight with the wife and stopped and the book store on the way home. When I go to start the car ('82 240D), I put in the key, turn it, all the lights come on, but when I go to crank I get nothing.

Luckily there is a police officer nearby giving someone a jump so he offers to give me a jump to. Doesn't help. I get a slight click at the starter solenoid but it won't crank. Finally, I get a screw driver and bridge the starter and it cranks right over. Drive it home, park it, try to start it again and same problem.

Here's what I suspect:
The battery isn't bad because when I get it home, it cranks by bridging the starter without a problem and noone is giving me a "jump." I think it must be a bad ignition lock assembly. I just installed a new ignition tumbler but I don't think that could be the problem because there's only one way to put it in and it started just fine several times before.

Thanks,

Scott

__________________
Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

The ignition switch is a suspect, also the neutral safety switch could give similar symptoms. Did you try putting it in N, wiggling the shifter, etc.?

BTW, the electric part of the ignition switch is only about $30.

The car is a four speed manual and it will crank even when in gear. Ask me how I know

What electric part are you referring to? I just see the whole switch for $170. It seems like it's only one piece.

Thanks,

Scott

__________________
Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

I didn't notice it was a manual, that makes it easier.

This is what I was referring to:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41W600J6FV&year=1982&make=MB&model=240-D-002&category=All&part=Ignition+Switch&appChassis=_any

It the part that plugs onto the back of the ignition switch and controls the electrical stuff.

Thanks. I didn't know that was a separate part. Saved me some bucks.

Scott

__________________
Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

You may want to do some more troubleshooting first, look for loose connections, etc., but replacing that part fixed the flaky ignition on my 300D (it started OK, but the climate control would stop working sometimes until I wiggled the key).

I've been through starter problems on several vehicles lately & they all work the same. Make sure you have fully charged battery. Next check that the connections are clean from the + side of the battery to the solenoid. Should be full battery voltage. Also check ground side. Next put the volt meter on the small terminal at the starter. It should see full battery voltage with key at start. If all above is correct, you have a starter problem. It was simply worn solenoid contacts on my Dodge diesel. Turn the key to on & try running a wire from the + batt terminal to the small starter contact. That may get you going if the solenoid contact is bad. If small wire doesn't get batt voltage suspect ignition switch or wiring. With volt meter at battery posts, turn key to start & observe batt voltage. Significant drop (load test) means the battery is bad or discharged. All the manuals show the connections for bumping the motor for a valve adjust. Testing the starter uses the same principle. Try to have your starter rebuilt locally. You'll get better parts, it's cheaper than reman & you'll have someone to hold responsible