where would I find said pin? and once located... what am I looking for or how do I adjust it.... are those numbers too low though? the car does run well.....
what is a "normal" reading for this car with 264k..

Bakc of the injector pump, facing forward to the front of the car.

I repalced mine, and did a valve adjustment to my 300D when I first got her. Made a world of difference and runs quieter.

I might correct, that the fuel fitler is not a 'spin on' but rather a bolt on. THe bolt has to be loosened before it can 'spin' the filter. Also, check the O-Rings on the bolt. If they are hard and sqare on the edges, get new ones from the dealer, that way you know theyre suited to handle diesel fuel.

I like to fill my bolt on with ATF or DIesel Purge. You can get diesel purge REALLY CHEAP from Inter Auto parts in San Diego. They are the cheapest around. 4.77 IIRC plus shipping. DIesel purge will clean out the system.

Good luck.

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

but what about those numbers... is that something that I should be worried about? they seem low. I am adjusting the valves this weekend.. I have no idea when they where last done. I'll take another reading after I do that..

Until you verify a valve adjustment, I wouldn't think you could place a lot of weight on your compression check numbers.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Yeah, what he said. Also, make sure your fittings are tight, you could be losing some pressure via a loose connection. You should have over 300 psi for your compression, and they all should be within 10% IIRC. I had over 300 on mine, and it's got 255k, if that's any reference.

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79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k
77 MB 450SL 154k
05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k
12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k)
06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k
16 Acura MDX (109k) 111k
18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 56k
97 Ford Ranger 163k
11 RAV4 154k
01 Escape 173k
04 Honda Pilot 292k
1967 Mustang (Resto Project)
1968 Mustang (Parts Bin)
00 Ford Ranger 124k

Yes, the valves where very tight. None of them had any clearance whatsoever. The car does not smoke as much now, but the engine still moves a bit too much, I guess I will now replace the rack damper pin and then see how it does. I am only dismayed b/c my 190D does not smoke at all and it is as smooth as they get....

I noticed on my car something you might want to keep in mind before you go to the expense of another rack dampner pin. I found the intake and exhaust valves set incorrectly to the same, .100mm, adjustment and once readjusted, did not seem to make a difference. However, the more I drove it, I noticed less unevenness. So about 500 miles later I did another valve adjustment. Most were very close but a couple of the exhaust valves needed a little tweaking. Again, I did not notice much improvement at first. After another 1000 miles and another adjustment, it seems to run very smooth.

My feeling is that with the valves so far out, with maybe carbon build-up, it took a little running to get them to reseat and have a smooth idle. Now that you know how easy it is to adjust them and it's even easier the second time, I am inclined to suggest try driving it for a bit.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Thank you, I will do that. I also noticed on another site (sorry) that someone was having the same problem, the vibration, and all they did was replace the motor mounts, those I will do this weekend and see if that vibration goes away. BUT, I guess it would not hurt me to replace that pin anyway... I will check the valves again after I drive it around for a bit. Slowly but surely, I will get this thing running like a Mercedes Benz.!!

Now the starter motor is failing. is there an easy way to wrangle that beast from the engine? does anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit? or is it just better to buy one....?

Check your connections up front at the black box first. They may be corroded.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

yep, checked it and the starter needs to be replaced, can anyone send me a link as to where I can find a rebuilt starter motor? for this 82 w123 300 TD?

thanks!

if its not one thing its the other I swear!

Okay awhile ago I was pricing rebuilt starters. Go to ebay and under mercedes starters you should find a guy in california with tremendous feedback. He sells them rebuilt for 75.00 or a few pennies less. I year warranty. With ith his feedback I would not be too concerned. When I say awhile ago I mean 2-3 weeks ago. Cheapest source I have found and suspect they do a good job with no return of your core required. I also have no vested interest in this firm at all. His shipping even seems very fair.

This week’s problem. Things seemed to good to be true there for a while but she did not let me down, by presenting to me a new challenge. The Automatic Climate Control is not working, the blower air, and auto heat worked and now… nothing… Hopefully the weather will cooperate with my problem but I doubt it.. I checked the fuses and they are fine, I pulled the control from the dash and looked fine although I have no idea what I was looking at. I was hoping that there would be a loose wire with a little sign on it saying, “here I am” but alas. If I follow the wire harness under the driver side what should I be looking for? Is there a fuse down there or anything annoyingly obvious? I don’t even know… where do I start? Any and ALL suggestions would be extraordinarily appreciated. (This is the automatic one with the temp wheel, the buttons and the fan buttons with the AUTO in the middle.) I did replace all the little bulbs; it at least looks nice in the dark.. .. There is something in the back of it that has a bulb in it and 5 wires coming out of it that go to the antenna, defrost, sunroof, rear light, switches, one of the arms of this octopus looking thing, (the one on the bottom right hand side, has no wire coming out of it) what is that thing? It does not look like it has anything to do with my problem though, you know.. This problem started when I had some kids install a stereo in the car. Darn kids! help me.

I think back to something I learned a while ago. When something goes wrong, what was the last thing touched. In this case, it seems to be the stereo install. I'd be willing to bet someone either spliced into or cut a wire. I'd start with the stereo wiring before jumping on the ACC. Did you get the correct frosted bulbs for it, or are you using a "compatible" style? The wrong wattage will melt your light sockets, and stick the bulbs in there very well. You don't have to ask how I know.

Now you tell me.. No. Those little expensive fellows where not frosted. All the wires to the actual control (button unit) where solid. There was nothing cut. I will have to dive deeper in there this weekend. Aside from cut wires, what else would cause it?