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  #1  
Old 09-28-2006, 01:54 PM
Feelstranger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Vermont
Posts: 52
Loose transmision bolts!!

So, I was checking out my ground strap the other day and noticed that the bolt in the bell housing was rather easy to losen...
Hmm, What about the others...
ALL LOOSE!
I mean, some had 1/4 in of shank exposed.
Now I am wondering if this is the source of the strange hamonic/vibration under power.
What I need to know is, are there any tricks to getting at the two or three bolts that are on the top of the trans???
I can just get a ratchet type box wrench in them, but only get 1 click at a time- if I can turn it at all.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Nat

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  #2  
Old 09-28-2006, 04:50 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelstranger View Post
What I need to know is, are there any tricks to getting at the two or three bolts that are on the top of the trans???
Nat
In order to get to the top four bolts, the tools you’ll need is a ratchet, 3-4 feet of extensions, a swivel joint, swivel socket and the hex socket that fits the bolts (not sure what size but I think it’s a size 10). You will need to drop the transmission by removing the four bolts of the bracket on the tail of the transmission and remove the two bolts on the driveshaft intermediate bearing mount. Be sure to put a jack under the trans and lower it down. The engine and trans will tilt down towards the rear. Once you see the bell housing bolts over the top the trans from under the car at the tail end of the trans, you can use the extensions, swivels and sockets to tighten the bolts by having an assistant guide you to the bolts from atop. After everything is tighten, jack up the transmission, reinstall all mounts and your ready to go!

Good Luck.
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  #3  
Old 09-28-2006, 06:04 PM
Professional smart ass
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Same thing happened on my dad's 300sd. We couldn't find the vibration anywhere. When whe finally found the missing bolts and tightened them up the vibration was gone.http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156974&highlight=jimdbrr
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  #4  
Old 09-28-2006, 06:34 PM
rocketman93116's Avatar
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Location: LA, CA
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Torque specs

In case you happen to use a torque wrench:

M10 bolts 41ftlbs (55nm)
M12 bolts 48ftlbs (65nm)

Here is the link to which I found torque specs:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=143289
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  #5  
Old 09-28-2006, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 992
tranny bolts

i changed a tranny last week.... jack the car up.... (jack stands)
get directly under the tranny..... and hug it like it was your girlfriend...
in that position you can tighten the 2 top bolts....or you can use 3 or 4 extensions and a swivel....I would remove each bolt one and a time and put a little loctight on it then put it back....I dont know anyone who torques these things....
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  #6  
Old 09-29-2006, 09:09 AM
Feelstranger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Vermont
Posts: 52
Thanks for the tips
Since I already did a starter remove/replace on this car, I was expecting answers along these lines...
OH BOY! Sounds like fun. At least this time the trans isn't leaking oil all over so I have a chance of staying clean(er).

And yes, After tightened up the few bolts I could reach, the Vibration I have been feeling for a while seems to have gone away.!!
And I thought it was the drive shaft bearing...
Bonus!
I guess since I don't need to buy a drive shaft bearing, I can buy that XXL extension!
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1991 VW Westfalia Syncro/Audi I5
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2006, 06:36 PM
Feelstranger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Vermont
Posts: 52
Hmm,
I managed to get my air ratchet on one of the bolts. It would not go in, so I took it out, cleaned it up, applied loc-tight and tried to put it back...
It really seemed to "hit bottom" - with the shaft just as before, about 1 cm out.

I searched My CD's but could not even find the section where the trans is...


Can anyone tell me the length that the upper trans bolts are supposed to be?
The one I took out was 80mm long..
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Feelstranger
My Wheels
1991 Audi 200 20V Avant
1991 VW Westfalia Syncro/Audi I5
1983 Mercedes 300D turbo
1972 Kawasaki H1 500 Mach III
1970's Limongi/Campy road racing bike
1942 Old Town sailing canoe
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2006, 10:47 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelstranger View Post

Can anyone tell me the length that the upper trans bolts are supposed to be?
The one I took out was 80mm long..

I have some extra bolts to the bell housing, but I am not sure which goes where. I have the 80mm long bolt and also I have the 70mm long bolts. I could only guess that the 70mm bolts is what you need since you have 1cm (10mm) to go with the 80mm bolts. Do you know if someone pulled the tranny or motor out before? Maybe someone inadvertently got them mixed up.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2006, 11:05 PM
mobetta's Avatar
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seems like on other cars I have worked on often had different length bolts on tranny- so maybe you need to play musical chairs with them.
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2006, 08:24 AM
Feelstranger
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Vermont
Posts: 52
Hey thanks y'all, seeing that you have 70 mm bolts does make me think that they must be mixed up. I can't recall just now if only the top two holes are dead end holes and the rest open ended...
Guess I will have to start swapping them around. FUN!

This all just convinces me more that this engine has been out before I bought it - I have a list of things I have noticed that lead me to belive it has been rebuilt.
Add this to it!
But then again, if the engine was out, they would have pulled the trans with it, no? so they could not have missed the fact that the trans bolts didn't fit when they put them together out of the car. Someone must have pulled the trans at a different time and had to bolt it up in the car...
Whatever. I have to deal with it!
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My Wheels
1991 Audi 200 20V Avant
1991 VW Westfalia Syncro/Audi I5
1983 Mercedes 300D turbo
1972 Kawasaki H1 500 Mach III
1970's Limongi/Campy road racing bike
1942 Old Town sailing canoe
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2006, 10:43 AM
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maybe pull the other bolts 1 at a time, and use some sort of feeler to see how deep the hole is. you probably will find one that is deeper. this way, you only remove 1 bolt at a time, and you can use some blue locktite on them. i would do this rather than just getting a shorter bolt, they designed them this way for a reason. good luck.

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