Need help/ tips with subframe mounts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

crashone · #1 09-30-2006, 06:36 PM

Hello! Man I am hoping someone can help me out! I have been working on this for a couple of hours. The holes do not seem to line up enogh to get the main bolt started. I have a jack under the arm so I can get it up to the car. Can someone that has done these before give me some advice?

rs899 · #2 09-30-2006, 07:22 PM

It is tricky and a little scary. I set a bottle jack that had a swivel head under the head of the bolt and lifted it enough to get it started with a wrench . Obviously, make sure you have it lined up properly .

Rick

crashone · #3 09-30-2006, 09:43 PM

I haven't used the bottle jack under the bolt yet, thanks. I have been reading the threads on this and the trailing arm bushing for a while so I thought I was ready. Well I guess there are always details! I'm glad this site is here

Any thing else someone wants to add would be appreciated! I'll post the out come of this adventure when I get it done. I'm replacing trailing arm bushings, spring shims, the subframe mounts and new shocks. I already did the diff. mount, no more squat into gear! Monday's commute should be smooth.

tangofox007 · #4 09-30-2006, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashone

I haven't used the bottle jack under the bolt yet, thanks.

That's what it takes. The big bolt is tough to get started; they did not put a point on it for nothing.

PatricdeBoer · #5 10-01-2006, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rs899

It is tricky and a little scary. I set a bottle jack that had a swivel head under the head of the bolt and lifted it enough to get it started with a wrench . Obviously, make sure you have it lined up properly .

Rick

That's exactly what I did both times I had to remove those bolts. You really gotta muscle the subframe around but those tapered bolts really help to guide it in place. It only took about 5 minutes once I figured how to do it.

Cateaux · #6 10-01-2006, 09:25 AM

If you're planning to replace the trailing arm bushings, the springs have to be removed. When the springs are out is the perfect time to do subframe bushings. I did everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING-shocks, springs & pads, axles, diff seals, diff mount, trailing arm bushings, subframe bushings, sway bar end links) on the rear of my 300D at once, and without the springs putting tension on the subframe the subframe bushing bolts just slide right in.

By the way, a $40 Harbor Freight ball joint press is the perfect tool for pressing trailing arm bushings in and out. You just have to cut the rubber lip off the old bushing to give the press a place to seat and they pop right out. A little brake grease on the new bushing helps it slide in easily without tearing the rubber.

mobetta · #7 10-01-2006, 10:40 AM

didnt have much trouble lining up the bolts for the subframe, but i did one side at a time. now getting them out was a whole nother story...

the control arm bushings were an easy job with a 1 1/4" pvc tee fitting, a lentgh of 1/2" all thread and some nuts and washers of different sizes. cost about $8 if you have to buy everything. also lots of silicon lube.

crashone · #8 10-03-2006, 11:53 PM

Lots of grease....then they went together fairly better. I ran out of time this weekend so I'll be revisiting these in a couple of weeks so I can get the trailing arm bushings installed. Also have new spring pads to go in. Also have to remove broken bolt on shock mount. Also have to repair/replace headliner where the seat ripped it when trying to store seat back for the night.

Last night I replaced the engine shocks/mounts/motor mounts/ tranny mount. Tonight the idler arm repair.

You have to love these old cars by the way they respond to new parts. Mine handles better after each wrenching session

I still have a bunch of front end parts waiting for the next time. I have to line up a spring compressor and a ball joint press.

Parts is parts

Again Thanks for the advice.

SD Blue · #9 10-04-2006, 12:20 AM

I used a come-along to pull the axle a little bit in order to line up the bolt for the rear sub-frame bushings. (Make easy work out of it.

)

For the rear trailing arm bushings, I used a section of 5/16" all-thread, 3/4 dr. sockets, a couple of nuts and a bunch of washers to press the bushings in and out. With that set up, there is no need to cut the lip off the old bushing. MB spring compressor is definitely required.

Cateaux · #10 10-04-2006, 09:43 AM

The trailing arm bushing R&R method described by SD Blue has worked well for many forum members. I think that this is the method that most use. I guess it comes down to what tool you have easy access to. Autozone will loan you the same ball joint press that I have for free (refundable deposit required). I already had the press laying around. Personally, I don't know how I lived without this tool in my collection. I just used it two days ago to press out rivets on my obnoxiously-assembled Dakota (ball joints are riveted to the control arms

). It only takes about ten seconds to cut the lip off of each old trailing arm bushing with a utility knife, and the press pushes them out with incredible ease. Either method will work, though.