Ball joint nightmare

[tgingrich]

OK, I have pounded on a shortened pickle fork with a 10# sledgehammer for hours, broken two ball joint puller tools including the recommended tool from Napa, bathed the joint for days in liquid wrench and pb blaster and put the blue wrench to it, the joint will still not come out of the control arm. In an effort to gain more access room I took a sawzall to the joint and cut the spindle free - joint popped out of the spindle after a couple of good whacks. I have the autozone c clamp ball joint press ready to go, but need a piece of cheater pipe to be able to turn the press anymore. How can the bolt still remain in the lower control arm? Any other helpfull hints/similar tales of woe?

[kerry]

I have not found pressure alone to be a good technique for removing ball joints. I've typically used a long pry bar of some kind to put pressure on the joint to pry it apart (6-8 feet long). I then strike the extrerior of joint sharply with a heavy hammer. It typically takes no more than one or more strikes. I don't know if this is possible for you anymore.

[tgingrich]

I can still put pressure on it with the clamp and get after the control arm by the joint with an airhammer or heavy hammer and a drift.

[techguy512]

I'm confused about exactly what you're trying to do.

Are you trying to get the tapered cone out of the control arm,
or are you trying to press the ball joint body out of the steering
knuckle (after separation from the LCA)?

[Whiskeydan]

Make sure the new ball joint is in straight. Small pursuasive taps, turn the press, tap, repeat... It should not be that difficult if it is going in straight. What's the condition of the AZ press threads?

With the easy access you can use a two jaw press on the piece still left in the LCA while tapping around the outer edge. It should pop out.

Good luck.

[BoostnBenz]

I don't know which part you are refering to. I used a 5lb sledge to get the old balljoint out of the spindle, I used the tool from AutoZone and a 900ft-lb impact to get the new one in.

I don't recall running into trouble when getting the balljoint out of the control arm but if/when I do normally I soak it with nonflammable liquid wrench, then heat it with a torch (mapp or oxy/acty). I try to use this as a last resort though as heating your control arm takes some strength away from it. I've had many occasions on getting joints out where even a 5lb hammer didn't help. So it was a mix of binding the pickle fork with a floor jack, heating the joint with a torch, use liquid wrench or pb blaster, and beat it with a 5lb sledge. I haven't found a joint this method hasn't worked on so far, occasionally I've had tierods glowing red before they decided to give in though.

If this helps here is how I did it.

[tgingrich]

I have the bottom of the ball joint out of the spindle, but the tapered top of the joint with the threads is stuck in the lower control arm.

[techguy512]

Originally Posted by tgingrich

the tapered top of the joint with the threads is stuck in the lower control arm.

I did the ball joints last month. AdvanceAuto rents a front-end tool set with a large, two
arm puller. Removal of the tapered cone from the LCA using this was fairly easy.
I guess I got lucky.

[loneranger]

never had one that bad. Usually back one side of arm (with hole) with 4# mechanics hammer and hit the other side with either 4# hammer or air impact hammer. Normally this does the job when pickle fork won't. Heating arm with hole with an torch will expand joint enough for ball joint to release. I don't recommend this unless your really good with a torch, too hot will ruin arm.

[BoostnBenz]

If you have a MAPP torch it may be a good time to get it out. If not they are pretty cheap and can be found at a lot of places like Home Depot or your local farm supply. Anyways you aren't going to get the control arm glowing red with a little MAPP torch but it should be enough to help break it free. Just remember before you swing the hammer to give the tapered portion a nice dousing with non flammable liquid wrench.

[SD Blue]

I remember someone used a very large gear puller to press it out. Or maybe a good heavy pitman arm puller if it will fit. Also, is the LCA well supported such as with a jack stand? With all of that rubber on the other end, it may just be absorbing all of the shock.

Good luck with it, I know how it feels I pulled 3 ball joints in 2 hours and spent 2 days on the last one. Same one by the way. I ended up drilling the inside out but think the heat idea sounds better.

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by tgingrich

I have the bottom of the ball joint out of the spindle, but the tapered top of the joint with the threads is stuck in the lower control arm.

Sounds like you have the spindle off the car after cutting the bj stud and are left with the threaded part of the stud stuck in the LCA. As someome said, torching would be one option just enough to heat the stud. What normally do is squirt with liquid wrench after heating, let it sit a few minutes and heat again. In your case, make sure the LCA is well supported by something to the floor (2x4 maybe?) and pound that stud down right after you heat it.

Another good tool to use is the OTC 7315. I separated mine using this tool and also the NAPA tool.

[Sbean]

When heating, then beating, try to heat quickly, and heat the outer (female) part to expand it, then use the hammer quickly before the whole assembly gets hot. The ideal would be to put the whole thing in the freezer for a couple of hours, then quickly heat the female part. Steve

[Whiskeydan]

You could drill it out now the spindle is out of the way.

[tgingrich]

Its Out! Another hour with the sledgehammer and giant c clamp ball joint press and the tapered bolt popped out of the control arm.