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Water pump replaced!
Man, what a PITA that was! who ever designed the fan clutch bolt spacing should be shot! Fan clucth look good, though, and does work properly (I did test it!) Luckily I did not have to grind a 10 mm box wrench. I used a "GoodWrench" 10 mm, which has a really thin wall. One bolt was slightly rounded by the PO, or his mechanic. Probably the same one who spliced my high side A/C line under the car, instead of replacing it.
Anyway, after finally getting the W/P off, I thought there was rust in the system. It was copper colored, but smooth and shiny like an epoxy. I wonder if the PO used that "copper flake" stop leak? Also, the PO used orange RTV, with no gasket, an when I got it apart, the W/P did not show signs of leaking, but the car was drooling from under the w/p. I was able to see a coolant trail where who ever installed the w/p did not get it all sealed, on the bottom of course, plus it had the green coolant in it. I also had to remove parts of the prior gasket left over from a prior water pump to the one I replaced. I hate shoddy work and attempt to cover it up with RTV! The back bolt on the Alt is a PITA to get to! If I had new U-Tube seals, I would have removed it, allowing easier access. The W/P impeller had one spot of rust on it. The new pump has a brass impeller. I did buy it at O'Reilly, and it is a new, not reman pump for $44. It also has a life time warranty. I checked with M/B they warranted the w/p for 90 days... It is now all flushed out. I did my own versoin of a reverse flush by using the water hose running at half open at the spigot ,some rags, and by disconnecting various hoses and running the water until it all ran clear. The block took for ever to run clear! Drained out as much as possible and refilled with Zerex G05, which I found at Auto Zone. I refilled through the tank, and through the upper radiator hose, with the car on a slight incline and the front end raised up on stands. I left the heater hose on the left side of the head disconnected while I filled. When I saw coolant come out, I reconnected the hose. I then kept filling using the upper radiator hose until the mixture stated dibbling from the upper radiator connection. Hooked it all up, ran the engine with the heater on, and when the Tstat opened, watched the level in the tank, then took her for a 15 min test run. No leaks! Yeah! Temp hovered just a hair above 80 on the guage. Checked the level this moring before driving to work, and it was at the proper level. Luckily, there was no rust or scaling that I could see in the radiator, or in the linings of the hoses.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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The 10mm wrench in the tool kit works fine on the WP bolts. It's a good idea to replace the bolts when removing the fan after the car has been in the hands of POs for the past 20-25 years. Once the bolt heads are damaged, they can be a pain to remove...
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Over 21 years I owned several: w108 w110 w111 w115 w116 w123 w124 w126 w212 |
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Good advice on the bolt replacement. Since I was doing this at night, I did not have the luxury of running to a parts house. Also, living 15 miles from the nearest McParts does not help either. I also did not think about it. I had no problem removing or replacing them.
I also have a Stanley 10 mm whose box head was too thick to even get on the bolts, that is why I bought to $3.00 "GoodWrench" brand. Does anyone know the difference between the G05 and the G12 coolants? Our TDI Jetta requires the G12. McParts does not know "G anything" except each brand claims to be comapatible. I read the Prestone placard at Auto Zone that stated Non silicate systems should "operate properly" on silicate coolant. Yeah, right. If that is the case, then why do non silicate systems develope water pump seal and bearing failures when silicates are added? Silicate = fine grit = a grinding action = seals and bearing ginding away... Thanks!
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Mine wasn't too bad to replace on the SD. Best advice? Use antiseize on all bolts going into the block.
I had a few break off on the black BMW here a few days ago when tearing down the top end.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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I though about using anti-seize, but the wp bolts into an aluminum spacer (that also houses the thermostat) which is bolted to the block. When I removed the w/p bolts, coolant came pouring out of the bolt holes. So, be cause of that I did not really want any anti sieze compound circulating through the cooling system,
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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I have used teflon thread paste in the past on bolts that pass through coolant passages.
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1982 MBZ 300SD Turbo Diesel- just turned 200,000- just breaking her in |
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radiator thermostat changed
I'm glad i just read what you all had to say on the coolant system. you seem to know a good bit. 10 min ago i finished replaceing a radiator that was cracked. while i was at it i replaced the thermostat. Since the trans fluid leaked out when i changed the radiator i just changed the trans filter. It's all back together with flush and water in it. Trans fluid replaced. I only ran it for a minute so far and the thermostat gage hasn't moved. My son, whose car it is, said something about the thermoustat gage not working. Can either of you for see a problem that would cause the thermostat not to register. I hate to break into someone elses post but you all seem to be the guys who know what you're doing. the car is a 1981 300d. Thanks. RAY M
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Check and make sure the TStat is not in backwards, and did you "burp" the system? Did you feel the upper hose and see if it is heating up from the water flow?
Also check and make sure the sending unit wires are still connected. Even with all the room under the hood, it seems like there is always something to knock loose. Also, how long has it been running since the repair, and what is your ambient temp?
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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gague
Quote:
I got what i thought were very good directions from somewhere on the forum but they didn't mention any of the things that you said to check. Well it will have to sit until i can get back to it next wed. Thanks. If you have any further guidance please, if you have time let me know. RAY M |
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Quote:
Using a hose with cold water to flush can keep the thermostat closed but result in an over heat like you described. I flushed mine with the engine off and T Stat removed. Also if any air is trapped in the head, which is where the temp sender is located IIRC, will also result in an over heat as you described. Keep posting how it works out for you. Others will chime in as well, or start a new thread.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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new
also this will help. I did a new thread also. Open drain plug on
engine also. Courtesy of Brian Carlton You can't see the starter or the block plug from the top. They are below the manifolds. Go underneath, on the passenger side, and find the starter, neatly tucked into the side of the block, below the manifolds and at the very back of the engine. Now find the very forward end of the starter. Go three inches further forward and about 1 inch vertically upward and there will be a bright hex plug that sticks out of the block. That's the block plug. It won't be difficult to remove. Courtesy of Boneheaddoctor I'll look...if you can feel the bracket that goes from the top rear bolt of the mount pedital to the exhaust manifold...then feel the area around 10-11 oclock based on that within a hands width....it will be the only hex head you will leel in the area...you can see it from underneath but not from above. passenger side...look at the bottom of the photo close on the right side you well see the passenger side motor mount pedistal.....its just behind and obove that. Where the red circle is....which is near the front edge of the starter and just above. Last edited by ray m; 10-07-2006 at 10:43 PM. Reason: more info |
#12
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Here's the block drain, just forward of the starter on the 617:
Click on the image for a larger size. |
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