I have lived among Diesels as much as anyone, but I'm 44 now and my memory is going. I've gotten about as close as anyone to dissembling and reassembling a W123 300D , from the engine, to the body to the trasnmission.

Seriously, if anyone has the URL or Links to the IP timing procedure and the valve adjsutment procedure, could they please give them to me? I lost my HAYNES manual.

One of these days I am going up an entire repository of links for these procedures, wiring diagrams, vacuum diagrams, parts suppliers, FAQ's so that as W123 300D's dwindle, the info will be around.

I think its because you've been huffing too much paint!


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=942689

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=152389&highlight=timing+milli+volt

And Of course, www.DieselGiant.com has an excellent How to about valve adjustment.

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

actually i have been wetsanding with 2000 and 2500 grit so much my right hand is swollen..the 2000/2500 process evens up the paint and makes it look like factory, its eerie, but then again it takes hours and hours...

Are you sure thats the only reason your right hand is swollen? Sometimes a new paint job can make a man....well...

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

on a lot of other forums the people weren't that friendly and they didn't joke around much

Carrameow,

I saw the pics of your second paint job, and it looks GREAT. You are truely
a gifted person. Continue to share your gifts with this forum, as we all may learn from you. Make sure that you post pics, after your masterpiece is done.

Thanks
James

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240_Dizzell

74 240D Auto,Beige (Totaled)
82 240D 4-Speed Manual,Gray (Retired) 260,000
97 E300 D Auto, Blue (Current) 240,000
05 E320 CDI Auto,TITANITE RED (Current) 158,000

I hope that you aren't sanding the entire car with only 2000 and 2500 grit paper. Start with something a little more aggressive. You can use 800 and then work you way up to the 2000 grit. I have painted hundreds of cars over the years and agree with you that wet sanding is the most vile of activities, but you don't need to make it even worse. Give it a try, you won't be disappointed.

Good luck,
Tom

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1993 300TE
1984 300D
1984 300SD
1976 BMW R90S

Richard,

Here's the valve adjustment procedure:

http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm


And, here's the IP timing procedure, courtesy of Peter:


Set engine on compression stroke of #1 cylinder (both valves closed or closing, both lobes pointing up) at 24 BTDC.

Look at the front of the IP. There is a mark at the upper left corner, a "missing" spline on the coupler splines, and a mark on the shaft. Line these up and install so that be bolts are in the middle of the cutouts on the mount. This should get you very close. Leave the nuts loose so you can move the pump back and forth.

Make sure there is a coupling sleeve between the intermediate shaft and the IP, too, else it won't turn.

Next, either obtain a drip tube or make one from plastic hose of some sort -- it only needs to push over the injection line fitting and seal with the free end bent over so you can see fuel drip off. Remove the #1 (front) pressure valve holder and carefully remove the spring and little steel valve from inside and screw the pressure valve holder back on.

Wire the pump linkage at wide open throttle. Pump the hand pump to fill the IP with fuel. If it's set right, only a slow drop by drop flow will come out of the drip tube. You may need to crack the bleed screw on the top of the pump next to the oil filler cap to bleed the air out. Tighten it when no more air comes out, only fuel.

Check that you are still at 24 BTDC on the crank, compression stroke of #1, then while still pumping, rotate the pump slowly away from the block until the fuel flows freely out the drip tube. Slowly rotate it back toward the block until the fuel flow abruptly slows down. It's obvious, but you can do it several times if you want. Just make sure the paper gasket for the IP doesn't tear or you get an intractable oil leak.

When satisfied that you have the pump set to just stop the flow (you still get a drip a second or so), tighten the mounting bolts, re-installl the pressure valve and spring, and the injection lines. Tighten the pressure valve holder to 25 ft/lbs three times, or it won't seal properly.

Leave the lines loose at the injectors, then crank the engine until no more air comes out the loose lines. Tighten injectors, run the glow plugs, and start it. May take a while, but it will start.

I'd personally check the chain stretch first, as a worn chain will have to be replaced and you would then need to rest th injection timing again. Just as easy to do it first.

Peter
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I was wary about posting too many pix because i didnt want to hot dog it too much. After all there are a lot of people who stick to the technical aspects of this forum and they offer valuable and lifesaving advice and knowledge to people.
Well one day when this car is finally restored, I will set up a site with all the Links to W123 300D information. I love that car.

Actually i am tremndously ungifted, but this site has been the L__'s blessing and has taught me everything about Mercedes from Day 1. Its been a major part of my Life.

Thanks Brian. After all these years, a dash fire, interior replacement, an engine failure, and various other cars, there is no other car for me but my 85 300D W123!! I even sold my 87 300D W124.