PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum
Page 11 of 17 « First 910 11 1213 Last »
Show 50 post(s) from this thread on one page

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/index.php)
-   Diesel Discussion (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=15)
-   -   got it this time - egr bypass 606 turbo (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=168261)

trapeze 11-23-2009 12:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by trapeze (Post 2339434)
I installed the EGR bypass today, as per Evan and Scott C. It seemed intimidating, once I got into it, it was simple.

About 6 months ago I was getting indications of MAF issues, I changed to the MAF the CDI engines use, this alternate showed good results. My turbo was back and stayed. I made no other changes, so for me the alternate MAF for the CDI (MB part# A6110940048) proved to be a durable solution,… good until the last few weeks. This turbo shutdown issue was coming back, shutting down after a few minutes of driving. After reading a bunch of posts here, I now suspected EGR issues. I could likely clean up the EGR and fix it, but the bypass is much more intriguing. I installed mine as Scott C did; using taps, I just did a test run and all is good for now. I’ll report back with a few more miles on her.

At this point, can I get rid of the EGR valve? If so what to do??? Some new plumbing?

Thanks everyone, this forum rocks!
9 days later and still going strong, no codes. The car runs much better without the soot pouring into the engine; I think I am getting better MPG too. I will check for sure at the next fill up.

scott19_68 11-23-2009 01:23 PM
Good to hear more are trying this mod - very easy once you get the taps on the correct wires :rolleyes:

Been about 7 months for me and going strong - never had a code since then. Once thing I forgot to mention: I have not determined if the EGR transducer is 'normally open' so I pulled the vacuum feed and plugged it. Not sure if this is correct or not but better safe than sorry...

trapeze 11-23-2009 02:41 PM
Scott C,

I ran the car for about three days with the mod hooked up as you and Evan described, with the electric and vacuum unhooked on the EGR transducer, vacuum lines capped. Then I noticed Evans comment on post #138, ("probably could be 2 components if you left the EGR modulator in place and capped the vacuum line") At that point I thought to try that, I removed the 1k Ohm resistor and wire from the 12 volt relay. Reconnected the electric only on the transducer, leaving the vacuum disconnected from the transducer and capped off. Still working great! I have left it in that condition for the past 6 days, I guess I felt a little better with the transducer providing the signal on that leg of the circuit. Thanks a lot for this mod!!!

mundoracer 12-08-2009 03:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek (Post 2334096)
Hi, welcome to the group!

As you can see reading through this thread that the idea has been refined to pretty much the nth degree.

A few others along with me, are running one version or another of the electronic mod with success - myself for over a year now. The solution has been reduced to 3 components totaling less than a dollar (probably could be 2 components if you left the EGR modulator in place and capped the vacuum line.

I don't know how much simpler it could be... :)

I've ordered an occiliscope kit and I'll be using it to analyze the circuit to help develop an extension of this mod to remove the MAF as well.

Thanks. Is there anyway you could draw us a schematic of the 2 component version, leaving the egr modulator in place and capping the vac line?
Thanks again.

trapeze 12-08-2009 03:34 PM
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mundoracer (Post 2356118)
Thanks. Is there anyway you could draw us a schematic of the 2 component version, leaving the egr modulator in place and capping the vac line?
Thanks again.
Here is what I have done. (attached pdf) Still running fine with no codes. UPDATED!!!

mundoracer 12-08-2009 05:23 PM
sweet. I'll try this today or tomorrow and report back. Thanks

mundoracer 12-09-2009 05:56 PM
Okay so I tried the two component method, check engine light came on and car drove with little to no boost. Connected it back to stock and boost came back but CEL still on. not sure what happened. how do I reset the CEL?

trapeze 12-09-2009 06:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mundoracer (Post 2356888)
Okay so I tried the two component method, check engine light came on and car drove with little to no boost. Connected it back to stock and boost came back but CEL still on. not sure what happened. how do I reset the CEL?
Sorry it did not work for you, I wonder what went wrong?

If you have no other issues, the check engine light should clear itself in about 50 miles. I picked up a cheap OBDII tool at the local auto parts store to check and clear codes.

mundoracer 12-09-2009 07:24 PM
on the green/grey wire to pin 35, did you tap into it or did you cut the wire and connect to the ecu side only, as indicated on your schematic?

trapeze 12-09-2009 07:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mundoracer (Post 2356941)
on the green/grey wire to pin 35, did you tap into it or did you cut the wire and connect to the ecu side only, as indicated on your schematic?
Ho..., my bad. Tap the wire to pin 35, not cut. Leave the wires connected at the transducer as well, removing and capping only the vacuum lines. I'll fix the schematic tomorrow.

KarTek 12-09-2009 07:45 PM
CEL will clear after 3 successful starts from cold and warm up to operating temp. Or, a simple code reader will take care of it.

mike0000 12-09-2009 08:13 PM
I am abou to try this on my 99 E300, forgive me but where is the transducer that needs to be capped off?

Thanks,
Mike

KarTek 12-09-2009 08:38 PM
Mike,

Left side, top of the fender well near the glow plug relay. Round thing with 3 vacuum hoses - 2 on top and 1 out the bottom.

mundoracer 12-10-2009 04:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by trapeze (Post 2356947)
Ho..., my bad. Tap the wire to pin 35, not cut. Leave the wires connected at the transducer as well, removing and capping only the vacuum lines. I'll fix the schematic tomorrow.
lol. well hopefully that explains what happened to me. I'll try again tomorrow. thanks.

mundoracer 12-10-2009 04:55 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek (Post 2356963)
CEL will clear after 3 successful starts from cold and warm up to operating temp. Or, a simple code reader will take care of it.
good to know, thanks. I ordered a scangauge II for the hell of it


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:27 PM.
Page 11 of 17 « First 910 11 1213 Last »
Show 50 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website