I'm not real sure how the .912's operate. I wish I could get a good look at one and do some tests to get a better understanding.

This is a great thread. I've been considering doing this mod to my car. However, I spoke with Oliver at Speedtuning today and he said that they now offer an "EGR Kill" ECU tune for $50. I'll be going with this instead of messing with all the wires and such.

removed to clean up thread and to not misdirect others.

Completely answered by KarTek in thread 201, sincere thanks!

Thanks to all who have put so much work into this modification.

You are best to get in a garage at more favorable temperatures or wait until spring.

removed to clean up thread and to not misdirect others.

Completely answered by KarTek in thread 201, sincere thanks!

Both wires are simply tapped into in the latest version I'm running on my car.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...s/P9060099.jpg

Pay no attention to the 2 extra inline splices from previous R&D work. There should only be the 2 "Y" splices.

Thanks
 

http://images.paraorkut.com/img/emot...thanks-510.gif

Thank You KarTek, I see that you have contributed greatly to the EGR delete project. A very simple and elegant solution. Thanks

With clear directions I did the EGR delete this afternoon and no check engine light after a circuit around the block.

http://images.paraorkut.com/img/emot...thanks-510.gif

I know it has been a while since this thread was hot, but, I am working on this mod today. My question, is, after doing the diode & resistor mod, do I still need to install a blocking plate on the EGR? Should I remove the little piston inside the EGR housing?
Do I plug up the vacum lines coming off the transducer and the other vacum line that is attached to the EGR?

1998 E300 TD
Thanks for reading.

On the non-turbo 606, which I believe has a similar EGR system, I removed the flap in the EGR body and disconnected all the vacuum connections. The flap in mine was attached to its axle by a pair of Phillips screws; I think this part was easier with the EGR body removed from the engine. The idle state of the EGR is zero exhaust recirc, so with no vacuum anywhere the exhaust valve should stay closed all the time.

I actually went so far as to remove all EGR vacuum tubing all the way back to the vac pump, because none of it serves any other purpose. Check the vacuum diagram for your engine to see if that's the case in the turbo as well.

If your state's inspection doesn't require emissions test for diesels, you can block the EGR port on the exhaust manifold and remove the whole thing, EGR body, valve, and vacuum actuators, and replace the EGR body with a rubber coupler or some intake tubing. Saves a little weight, reduces intake turbulence, and removes some unnecessary clutter from your engine bay.

Carl,

There's no place to put a blocking plate per se on the '98-'99 cars. Simply remove the vacuum line from the transducer to the EGR mixing chamber and cap the remaining open port on the transducer.

That's it!

exactly what kartek said.

without vacuum running to it, the egr will stay closed, just the way you want it.

Sweet!
So far the hardest part, and came in for a break, is putting that black cover back over the ECU wiring harness. Ya know, the cover that has that little phillips head screw...

Thanks for the help, guys.

Yeah, it's a PITA to put it all back together and tuck the seal in there so it's not pinched...

There are 2 vacuum lines connected to the EGR. 1 to the tranducer. (I pull that off the EGR. That leaves that hole open on the EGR, no problems with that? Then the smaller vacum line, that goes to another, smaller part.. not sure the name. Leave the smaller tube connected?
Also, do I disconnect the electrical connection to the Transducer?

Just got back from a few mile test drive and WOW, what a difference in throttle response! I was able to burn rubber for the first time in this car!

No CEL came on.

I attached a pic of the transducer, I'm hoping that this is the correct way to leave it? Power connected, vac tube left on EGR, open. Transducer capped.

There should be 2 vacuum lines leading to the EGR mixing chamber - one to the diaphram that operates the valve and the other sends manifold pressure to the MAP sensor.

Pull and cap the line going to the EGR diaphram (as you did) and leave the electrical connection connected to the transducer.