Both wires are simply tapped into in the latest version I'm running on my car.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...s/P9060099.jpg

Pay no attention to the 2 extra inline splices from previous R&D work. There should only be the 2 "Y" splices.

Thanks
 

http://images.paraorkut.com/img/emot...thanks-510.gif

Thank You KarTek, I see that you have contributed greatly to the EGR delete project. A very simple and elegant solution. Thanks

With clear directions I did the EGR delete this afternoon and no check engine light after a circuit around the block.

http://images.paraorkut.com/img/emot...thanks-510.gif

I know it has been a while since this thread was hot, but, I am working on this mod today. My question, is, after doing the diode & resistor mod, do I still need to install a blocking plate on the EGR? Should I remove the little piston inside the EGR housing?
Do I plug up the vacum lines coming off the transducer and the other vacum line that is attached to the EGR?

1998 E300 TD
Thanks for reading.

On the non-turbo 606, which I believe has a similar EGR system, I removed the flap in the EGR body and disconnected all the vacuum connections. The flap in mine was attached to its axle by a pair of Phillips screws; I think this part was easier with the EGR body removed from the engine. The idle state of the EGR is zero exhaust recirc, so with no vacuum anywhere the exhaust valve should stay closed all the time.

I actually went so far as to remove all EGR vacuum tubing all the way back to the vac pump, because none of it serves any other purpose. Check the vacuum diagram for your engine to see if that's the case in the turbo as well.

If your state's inspection doesn't require emissions test for diesels, you can block the EGR port on the exhaust manifold and remove the whole thing, EGR body, valve, and vacuum actuators, and replace the EGR body with a rubber coupler or some intake tubing. Saves a little weight, reduces intake turbulence, and removes some unnecessary clutter from your engine bay.

Carl,

There's no place to put a blocking plate per se on the '98-'99 cars. Simply remove the vacuum line from the transducer to the EGR mixing chamber and cap the remaining open port on the transducer.

That's it!

exactly what kartek said.

without vacuum running to it, the egr will stay closed, just the way you want it.

Sweet!
So far the hardest part, and came in for a break, is putting that black cover back over the ECU wiring harness. Ya know, the cover that has that little phillips head screw...

Thanks for the help, guys.

Yeah, it's a PITA to put it all back together and tuck the seal in there so it's not pinched...

There are 2 vacuum lines connected to the EGR. 1 to the tranducer. (I pull that off the EGR. That leaves that hole open on the EGR, no problems with that? Then the smaller vacum line, that goes to another, smaller part.. not sure the name. Leave the smaller tube connected?
Also, do I disconnect the electrical connection to the Transducer?

Just got back from a few mile test drive and WOW, what a difference in throttle response! I was able to burn rubber for the first time in this car!

No CEL came on.

I attached a pic of the transducer, I'm hoping that this is the correct way to leave it? Power connected, vac tube left on EGR, open. Transducer capped.

There should be 2 vacuum lines leading to the EGR mixing chamber - one to the diaphram that operates the valve and the other sends manifold pressure to the MAP sensor.

Pull and cap the line going to the EGR diaphram (as you did) and leave the electrical connection connected to the transducer.

I had filled my tank just before I performed the mod yesterday, so I could get a true mpg result after the mod. Are ya'll ready for this?
Before the mod, I would occasionally get 30mpg, on highway drives and that was when I was being gentle on the pedal. I filled up today, after driving 45 miles. 30 miles of that was on interstate, using cruise control at 65mph. 15 miles of that included a good bit of pedal to the metal, performance testing.

Before the mod - 25 -30mpg
After the mod - 39mpg

Cost of mod $2.08 (Radio Shack)

Kartek, Thank you for your diligent research and effort on figuring this EGR bypass out.

Now, I need to figure out why my injector closest to the firewall is seeping fuel. I have replaced the leak lines with viton and still seeping.

You only covered a few miles, from what you posted, less than a tank... And the EGR won't make such a difference in regards to MPG's.... considering the EGR is active during idle....

But congrats! :D

For me, this journey started a couple months ago with a P0400 engine code, which points to a faulty EGR. I had taken the car to the dealer for that and a couple of other minor issues(fuel line leakage, which I ended up fixing myself.) The dealer wanted to replace the EGR. The price for a new EGR $1,200.00!! I chose not to do that repair.

After getting the IM off and looking at it, the EGR was all gunked up. I cleaned the EGR and the IM. The car did run a little better, but the mpg tests were all over the place. I did get 32mpg once, next test was 25mpg.
So, I think the EGR was faulty, maybe not opening and closing correctly. although, I did not get any more P0400 codes.
I check my mpg at every fill up and I have never gotten close to 39mpg before this mod. Also, the throttle response is amazingly better. From a dead stop to pedal to the floor, I reached red line rpm in about 2 seconds. (I didnt time it, but, that's how it felt.)

I will keep testing my mpg and let you guys know if that changes.

Thank You KarTek, i did final generation mod ,worked Great, NO CEL. and better throttle, will c if mpg changes.thanks again

Good work guys, enjoy your cars!

Do 606's have alda's ?

Only 606.910, same pump as 603. On electronic pumps, ALDA function is controlled by the MAP telling the ECU that it's OK to fuel... :)

Great theme, I did not find nowhere elsewhere...
I'm from the Czech Republic and here nobody know how bypass the EGR engine CDI.
Please can help me with this?
My car is S320CDI (y.2000)
I am electronics engineer, I know what it is diodes and resistor, but where to put it in my engine do not know:)
And my English .... nothing much:)
Thank you very very very much for your help.

Just wanted to thank Kartek and the others who have helped on this project. I did the whole project in under an hour including the trip to Radioshack for parts and Advance Auto for the vacuum tube caps.

Can someone also help me?
Please......

Thanks for this thread
 

Very cool and simple mod, which I hope to perform this weekend. Question: wiring up the components seems easy enough. What's really required for the physical EGR once the mod is in place? I know that removing it or blocking the tube might help air flow, but I'm wondering otherwise is there harm in leaving the EGR and that corrugated tube in place? Same with the vacuum lines?

-Chuck

Karlos, this is a thread about the OM606, not the engine you have. I would recommend finding a thread or forum dedicated to the motor you have. You might as well be asking for sewing tips.



Indeed. and good luck.


yes, version 4.0 is perfect.


nothing is "required" that is the beauty of the MOD. You can do nothing, remove it, what ever you wish.


"blocking the tube" does nothing for "air flow", the benefit is to no longer be scavenging exhaust gasses. Removing and blocking this portion of the system is of great benefit to the 606.

Removing the EGR valve itself will require some fabrication as the connector tube from the intake to the IC plumbing IS the EGR valve.
Some have removed and gutted the EGR, I am working on the "Fabrication" method.



To provide benefit to your 606, just block the flow of gases from the exhaust to the intake. What ever method you chose. As long as old spent crap from the post combustion side is unable to enter the fresh air side, you have performed a miracle. The lights will be descending from the heavens upon you. :D

I left the EGR and tube in place.

Mike

Thanks, Mike (and Renntag). It seemed to me I could somehow fit something like a penny in there, in that corrugated tube inlet, and maybe using some epoxy putty to get it in to place, though we'll see. If I can do this electronic mod without removing the manifold yet again, that would be nice. I've found that the most difficult part is getting that crazy little round bracket back on that snugs the corrugated tube next to the EGR inlet.

-Chuck

I prefer to eliminate all related parts of the EGR system, thus simplifying under hood systems. Note, that as for the exhaust outlet, it is also possible to tap for a pipe thread and insert an allen socket style pipe plug. This ensures that you do not have to deal with the round clamp that is a PIA to manipulate.

Guys, I have read this thread and see that '97 E diesels can not use KarTek's clever solution because they don't have a MAF. So what is that gizmo that I have circled on the photo of my '97 E 300 D. I am not skilled in emissions control and don't know a MAF from a MAP, but this thing is a loop of bare wire that sticks down into the air stream.

Does it look like this?

http://cdn2.iofferphoto.com/img/item...7/887/Qqt5.jpg

If so, its an "Intake Air Temperature Sensor".



MAF usually has 4-6 wires. The 2 wire pig tail is an indicator that your part in question is not a MAF.

If I am possibly wrong, someone, please enlighten.

Yes, I believe that is what it looks like. I don't remember the red blob at the end but if you colored it black it would be easy to think it was part of the plastic piece, or maybe mine is sooted up.

I guess I am stuck with the EGR on this car. Virginia does not do emission tests, but I have been assured by the inspectors that they check to be sure the emission controls are unmodified, and if they are modified the car is rejected.

CEL
 

So I just did the mod this weekend, in addition to changing out most of the fuel hoses. Needless to say a lot of time under the hood. At one point I threw a code, but this was prior to the mod. I think all is well, am I to understand that the Check Engine light should go away over time?

Thanks -- sorry I wish I knew more about the '97's and could contribute something to the end of the thread here.

====EDIT====
Never mind, I found the answer on page 12 of this thread. I had disconnected the transducer, I think I was mixing up instructions from Evan's initial alpha version where the line was cut and the simpler solution. So leave the transducer connected! I did cap the vacuum from the EGR and the one from the transducer to the EGR, but it appears that probably isn't necessary either. :rolleyes:

CEL is gone!
 

CEL is gone. I used a 3/4 tap which barely enabled a brass plug into the exhaust outlet, and packed JB Weld around it. Another victory in the fight to combat clogged intakes! :)

Hello

Would this mod work on a 961 engine ?
I assume its nearly equal the 962.

I have a 961 in my S300 97`.

The strange thing is that KarTek described in earlier post that because of error codes he got during testing his engine would not rev past 4500rpm and no boost. Im having exactley the same problem, sluggish car, no boost and max rpm is 4500. But i am having no error code. I think this problem is related to no boost/egr problems, but why no error code showing up ? Is it possible to have no boost and still engine not showing any error code ?

Anyway i hope this mod can also fit the 961 engine!

Great forum for diesels!

Regards
Odd

Odd,

I'm not familiar with the .961. With these engines, that last digit can mean a big difference in how the engine is managed.

Does your engine have a MAF sensor? If so, I suspect the mod would work. Can you take a picture of the engine and post it?

Hello!

Photo here http://home.online.no/~egiovers/2011-12-26%2021.19.54.jpg

Seems like my engine has not 'MAF. Also this link: PointedThree - Smoking diesel
in the post by AlanMcR says this about the system: " the OM606.962 (in the E-class). This has a MAF plugged into the air stream right after the air cleaner. The only purpose of the MAF is to verify that the EGR is working. When the EGR opens the MAF reading verifies that the flow through the air filter is appropriately reduced. On the OM606.964 (in the G-class) and OM606.961 (in the S-class) the EGR is monitored by a valve lift sensor. That is the wire you spotted coming out of the EGR. On the G, the ECU knows that the valve opened, but doesn't know if any gasses are flowing through it. (Lots of people realized this and plugged the pipe, hence the fix on the E-class).
Note that your G will go into limp mode if the EGR sensor or vacuum hose is unplugged. In my case the EGR sensor failed. Since this is a non-USA part, I was motivated me to build a circuit that mimics the EGR sensor. You might want to unplug the sensor just to have a feel for how weak limp mode is. It will go back to normal after the sensor is plugged back in and the engine is restarted (some causes of limp mode may take a few restarts). "

So it seems like the 964 and 961 is similar, and probably i can blank off the EGR.

Here is a photo of the EGR:
http://home.online.no/~egiovers/2011-12-26%2022.07.30.jpg
There are two vacum hoses, the brightest one going in to the egr vacum valve i think is for opening the valve (the black behind is the MAP sensor)

There is also a sensor upstream just before the egr, what could be the service of this one?

Seems like my system is more simple than on the 962 engine.

Regards
Odd

Hello guys,
Would this mod work on my 1997 Mercedes E290 turbo diesel engine 602.982?
Does anybody know which ECU pin numbers should I connect?
Thanks in advance!

Huge Thanks...
 

...to contributors to this thread, especially Kartek. My 606 engined 1999 300 TD estate was not ticking over smoothly and had lost a lot of power. My local indie told me the labour to investigate the EGR error code would be a couple of hundred pounds and if parts needed replacing that could be the same again.

With the 2-parts EGR bypass mod. the lumpy running was cured and the MAF delete using a 22k resistor gave me back full power.

I have had her from new. She has done 117k miles and is going up for sale as a company car is going to take her place. I shall be sorry to say goodbye to the grand old (slightly rusty) lady but pleased to see she can still pick up her skirts and run.

Ed

That early in the intake everything should be clean. No soot.


Absolutely not !

The commonwealth of Virginia most certainly does require emissions test on '97 and up diesels under I believe 8000 pounds.
Now some counties may not require emissions, so you might be in one of those counties.

For those of us that are tested, the procedure is nothing more than checking for emission codes. A brief look under the hood may take place, but with a neat and tidy removal, all should be copacetic.

Ah, but can they tell? with the two ports blocked in a factory appearing manor, no one can tell.




You have a W210 TD ? Please please provide pictures !!! I would love to import one of these.



Any idea cost to ship to US?



Hilarious. Thanks for the chuckle ! :D

I'll be waiting on my royalty check in the mail! :D

KarTek

Just did the resistor and diode mod to bypass the EGR. No engine or electronic lights on dash, no codes, however, though the engine does wind up to typical rpm and turbo does function (unlike when you simply unplug the vacuum line without the mod), I am not getting typical acceleration because I am not getting expected boost. From past monitoring of MAP pressure on my scangauge I do know that I typically get 15psi full boost (30psi MAP), but with the mod the car now accelerates much slower and tops out at only 7 to 8 psi boost (22PSI MAP). Have you come across this? I tapped the resistor/diode circuit between wire 21 and 35 as shown in the diagrams and I am confident that is correct and I also unplugged the vacuum line going to the MAF diaphragm. Is there another step that I may have forgotten? I notice in post 119 by scott19_68 there appears to be a tap to what I believe is a 12v line. Did I miss something? Why do you suppose that is there and where does it go and does it have something to do with the mod. If so I obviously missed something.

If I am correct you said you unplugged a vacuum line to MAF and I assume you mean EGR.

The mod plugs it not un plugs it. Now there is a vacuum leak and the waste gate solenoid is not functioning putting you into limp mode. I am surprised there is no check engine light.

Let us know your results.

Could someone please reiterate what needs to be done with the vacuum plumbing? I've seen the circuit diagram, and it's very clear about the electrical modifications. What I'm not clear is whether anything *needs* to be changed with respect to the vacuum plumbing?

I saw some posts that said disconnect the transducer from the EGR valve, and other posts that said to disconnect the vacuum reservoir from the transducer. What is correct?

Hello all, I figured I would revive this post since I disabled the EGR and MAF according to the instructions on this forum. I did the resistor and diode for the EGR and the resistor for the MAF.
After completing the mod, I drove about 30 miles with no cel lights or anything odd happening. The car ran great and seemed to take less throttle to maintain highway speed.

I do have a couple of questions if you guys don’t mind,
I disconnected to vacuum line from the valve side of the EGR going to the transducer and capped both ends. What do I need to do with the vacuum line coming off the other side of the EGR?

Also, I have noticed that the EGR transducer makes a noise for a few minutes after shutting the vehicle off. This happened prior to the mod and after the mod as well. Thanks for your time.

Anybody out there? Thanks