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#1
10-23-2006, 04:31 PM
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Tips for Bleeding Fuel System - 124
Im about to install veggie (Frybrid) in my 87 300D turbo.
Im a bit worried about being able to bleed all the air in the system, since I will need to remove some of the fuel lines and run new ones. Typically when I do filter change, I use the starter motor to pump out the air. This takes a while and is pretty hard on starter. So...is there a trick to bleeding my system? Someone on the Frybrid forum said the car has a "hand pump" but Ive been unable to locate such a device. Would be nice, as I see no real way of bleeding without judicious use of the starter motor. Tips, tricks greatly appreciated!
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Paul Benz-less  I need an SDL ! 
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#2
10-23-2006, 04:43 PM
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hello fellow atlien.
on the older diesels there is a hand pump after the primary filter.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42
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#3
10-23-2006, 04:53 PM
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The OM616/617 engines have the manual pump. Your engine, the OM603 does not have a pump. It is considered a self bleeding system. I have read some recent posts that stated that it took a long time to get all the air bled out after replacing the injection pump.
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Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI
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#4
10-23-2006, 05:03 PM
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Really the bleeding is done by the key in the ignition. I dont why MB did not put a hand primer pump on that engine. Maybe so they could sell more starters.
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1981 300D 147k 1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k 1979 300D 234k (sold) 1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold) Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair 
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#5
10-23-2006, 05:22 PM
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I drove a VW diesel for a long time and when I did some major fuel related stuff, I would prime the lines by CAREFULLY!!!! taking LOW AIR PRESSURE (5 to 10 psi) with an air blow gun, wrapping a rag around it and sealing it into the fuel filler neck. I would remove the line at the inj pump and have someone CAREFULLY pressure the tank. Once I got fuel to the line, I was good to go. I would sometimes remove the RETURN line from the inj pump and wait for fuel to come out of there with the fuel tank pressurized.
When bleeding a pump, crack half of the injector lines, give the engine full throttle and crank until you get fuel at the lines. Glow then try to start.
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.
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#6
10-23-2006, 05:36 PM
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That will only work to fill up the fuel filtes. The only way to get rid of air in the injector lines, pump and injectors is for the IP pump to be operating. Using the hand primer pump or any other non-engine method does nothing past the pump.
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1981 300D 147k 1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k 1979 300D 234k (sold) 1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold) Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair
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#7
10-23-2006, 06:37 PM
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This is what I figured. Dont know why the 603 has no primer pump.
I was thinking of using some sort of mitivac or bulb to hook up and bleed. I wonder how far I can push the fuel though - would it go all the way thru lift pump and IP and out to each injector? Or would I need to do it in stages?
__________________
Paul Benz-less I need an SDL !
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