valve retaining wrench/ what is it's use - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ray m · #1 10-30-2006, 10:31 PM

I'm getting some valve wrenches and they are selling a packege with a retaining wrench with it. What does the retaining wrench do. How would you use it. If you use it does it make it easier or more accurate. I'havn't seen any post or links on it. I'll try to show a pic of one. THANKS RAY M

#2 10-30-2006, 10:36 PM

I keeps the valve from spinning as you tighten the nuts so your adjustment won't get messed up.

[IMG]http://content.************************/MERCEDES/106536/106536_200_1.jpg[/IMG]

ray m · #3 10-30-2006, 10:41 PM

couldn't get pic but sold onebay below

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Valve-Wrenches-Set-Engine-Repair-Tools_W0QQitemZ120045164905QQihZ002QQcategoryZ43994QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotoho sting
or Item number: 180016568123 on ebay

ray m · #4 10-30-2006, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

I keeps the valve from spinning as you tighten the nuts so your adjustment won't get messed up.

[IMG]http://content.************************/MERCEDES/106536/106536_200_1.jpg[/IMG]

If the valves spin what problems does this present. This is new news to me. It sounds like an essential tool in an adjustment. If they spin how can it be corrected. Thanks

#5 10-30-2006, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ray m

If the valves spin what problems does this present. This is new news to me. It sounds like an essential tool in an adjustment. If they spin how can it be corrected. Thanks

The valve spinning when you are tightening the jamnut is just an annoyance. When you tighten it, the valve can spin and alter your valve lash setting, meaning you will have to adjust it again. I got by with a large flat blade screwdriver wedged against the valve before I got the 3rd wrench.

ray m · #6 10-30-2006, 11:43 PM

Thanks sounds like a time saver and a more accurate job can be done. Is that it?

#7 10-30-2006, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ray m

Thanks sounds like a time saver and a more accurate job can be done. Is that it?

You got it.

ray m · #8 10-30-2006, 11:51 PM

How do you say. Your the man fourced induction! Thanks again RAY M

Cateaux · #9 10-31-2006, 09:31 AM

Wether or not the valve spins seems to be a matter of luck. I was lucky, and none of my valves wanted to spin. I just have a pair of short-handled Unimog wrenches I got on Ebay for $4X. Even if I had the third wrench I would have had no use for it. I'm doing valve stem seals before it gets cold here (high of 80 degrees today...Louisiana winter

), so hope I don't get a sticky valve when I put everything back together. I hate the taste of my own foot

.

leathermang · #10 10-31-2006, 11:02 AM

There are great threads in the archives about this subject...
use my name to search ...

I made my own two top wrenches... pictures are in the archives... ( bent wrench ) for search.

but three of my valve nuts were STUCK when I did the first valve setting ( on my 81 wagon )...

There is the added advantage of that bottom wrench having the little table which folds down on it... this often tends to be a three hand job... and I recommend that legit third wrench for the added pleasantness it imparts to the job...

What is going to count is the tightness of the threads on the adjustment nut and it's locking nut... compared to the spring pressure keeping the valve from turning....

Worst case is when you are doing the setting on the same vehicle you need for parts chasing.... so if you get part way and you really need that third wrench then you have to put everything back together and wait till the dealership opens...and then start over...

These nuts on the top of the valves take a beating over the years... MB FSM suggests replacing them periodically...

Middle of Texas weather = over 85 today... but relief is on its way from Canada...

sailor15015 · #11 10-31-2006, 12:53 PM

I use channel locks to hold it in place when I do mine. Works great. Usually, only a few will turn when I do my adjustments so I guess I get lucky.

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Middle of Texas weather = over 85 today... but relief is on its way from Canada...

Its already hit here. Went from 75 last night to about 45 right now. Still aren't forcasting a freeze but dang close to it.

Diesel Giant · #12 10-31-2006, 04:47 PM

Its not very common to get the bottom hex to spin, but in that case a large flat blade screwdriver is a better option. You dont have to hold it. I dont have 3 hands so only holding the adjustment wrenches is much nicer.

I think I have had to use the screwdriver 3 times in my life.

ray m · #13 11-01-2006, 01:38 AM

It sounds like it can be done ok with out, but perhaps easier if you do happen to have one. How can i tell if the top nuts need changeing other than compareing it to a new one. If the engine still runs rough,but better then before after a valve adjustment, could it be the seals. Can they be replaced by removeing the valve cover only or do you have to remove the head. Are there any DIYS on it that you know of.

Yes humid,tropical hot, foggy. and rain with 83 degrees wed. Love that November weather. Tex & La rain today. Straight North we'll send you some it looks.

Cateaux · #14 11-01-2006, 06:40 AM

I'm not sure how to tell if the top nut needs changing, unless it looks messed up. I may go ahead and replace them for good measure. I'll already be replacing the valve springs while everything's apart.

As for the valve seals, they don't make the engine run rough when they go bad, they just let oil seep into the cylinder when the engine's off. If you get a puff of blue smoke when you start the engine after it's been sitting overnight, but no blue smoke when the engine's warm, then that means bad valve seals. It's more embarrassing than harmful, unless you have a gasser. In the summer I hardly get any smoke, but in the winter it's much worse (colder valves contract more, leaving larger gaps between the valves and seals, leading to more oil leaking into the cylinder). To replace them you need to remove the valve cover, rocker arms & retainers, and valve springs. I haven't seen any DIYs, but the topic has been covered pretty well in the forum.

ray m · #15 11-01-2006, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cateaux

I'm not sure how to tell if the top nut needs changing, unless it looks messed up. I may go ahead and replace them for good measure. I'll already be replacing the valve springs while everything's apart.

As for the valve seals, they don't make the engine run rough when they go bad, they just let oil seep into the cylinder when the engine's off. If you get a puff of blue smoke when you start the engine after it's been sitting overnight, but no blue smoke when the engine's warm, then that means bad valve seals. It's more embarrassing than harmful, unless you have a gasser. In the summer I hardly get any smoke, but in the winter it's much worse (colder valves contract more, leaving larger gaps between the valves and seals, leading to more oil leaking into the cylinder). To replace them you need to remove the valve cover, rocker arms & retainers, and valve springs. I haven't seen any DIYs, but the topic has been covered pretty well in the forum.

THANKS