Minor fuel leak on W210 diesel. Need assist with game plan. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

uberwgn · #1 10-08-2006, 11:09 AM

My 1999 E300D has had a minor fuel leak since I've owned it. There is always the smell of hot diesel fuel in the garage (for about an hour) after the car is shutdown. With this new fuel, and its distinct "chemical" odor, the smell in the garage is getting stronger for the past few weeks. I pulled off the center (small) encapsulation panel and the small black plastic device has a few noticeable drips of fuel on the underside. View from below:

It's impossible for me to say whether it's a fuel line or a gasket since space is so limited. I have no aversion to removing the intake manifold, if necessary. However, within the past 6 months the previous had all plastic fuel lines, clips, o-rings replaced when he did the glow plugs and cleaned the IM. So, if anyone can suggest the shortest path on correcting this, I sure would appreciate suggestions, but don't want to replace a bunch of stuff that has just been replaced. I like to keep it simple

Thanks.

nhdoc · #2 10-08-2006, 12:17 PM

If you didn't change the o-ring between that shutoff valve and the injector pump then that is most likely the source of the leak.

You don't need to pull the IM to replace it, just lift the washer bottle out of the way (you'll need to disconnect the ABS plug to do that) and work from the side. Two allen or torx bolts hold the shutoff in place. Just slip off the o-ring and replace it...20 minute job and it should clear it up. If it still leaks then it is probably the valve itself, but 90% of the time it is the ring.

I faced the exact same thing last year when I had my lines changed and the tech failed to replace that o-ring despite being asked...that was the last time I had anyone do any work on the car.

TMAllison · #3 10-08-2006, 12:27 PM

I agree.

Shutoff value o-ring http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1U21771E11WZ0QJ6GA&year=1999&make=MB&model=E-300DT-001&category=D&part=Shut+Off+Valve+Gasket

McCool300TD · #4 10-08-2006, 02:32 PM

Hi

Yes id go for replacing the o ring on the shut off valve, part no. MA0219977548.
It is fiddly but as nhdoc says it can be done without removing the IM. By the way you need a torx set to take off the 2 securing bolts on the stop solenoid.

Good luck,

McCool300td

uberwgn · #5 10-08-2006, 07:18 PM

Guys, I'd like to extend a sincere thanks for the reponses. I really appreciate it.

There are a few folks who make this forum a great place.

OK, I'll head to the dealership and seek out the O-ring. I hope that will be the end of it. I'm quite certain my 2 fastening bolts are TORX so that should not be a problem.

michakaveli · #6 10-09-2006, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwgn

Guys, I'd like to extend a sincere thanks for the reponses. I really appreciate it.

There are a few folks who make this forum a great place.

OK, I'll head to the dealership and seek out the O-ring. I hope that will be the end of it. I'm quite certain my 2 fastening bolts are TORX so that should not be a problem.

It's all about good looking out!

uberwgn · #7 10-09-2006, 12:32 PM

Nothing goes as planned, of course. I am having a horrible time removing the two bolts. One is out but pretty much detroyed. I haven't been able to remove the rear bolt towards the windshield. Access is so poor

I've got the new o-ring and have two new bolts on order. I may be forced to remove the IM to access the rear bolt

#8 10-09-2006, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwgn

Nothing goes as planned, of course. I am having a horrible time removing the two bolts. One is out but pretty much detroyed. I haven't been able to remove the rear bolt towards the windshield. Access is so poor

I've got the new o-ring and have two new bolts on order. I may be forced to remove the IM to access the rear bolt

I had problems with mine as well. MB's usually have good fasteners, but the bolts on my shut-off had horrible sockets. I put new bolts in when I replaced the o-ring.

uberwgn · #9 10-09-2006, 12:47 PM

I'm taking a break from it 'til this evening. I soaked the bolt in penetrant. That may help.

I wonder if I can access it from underneath. I could easily grab the body of the bolt with vise grips and break it free...

Also, can someone describe how the two fuel lines atop the valve come off? I am not familiar at all with that type of connector. I see how the white plastic clips are released, I don't want to start pulling on the connectors themselves.

Thanks.

TMAllison · #10 10-09-2006, 02:05 PM

Push the white horseshoe clips closed to spread the shoulders of the fuel line clips. Then wiggle it side to side to work the retainer clip free. Pending how much the horseshoe actually spread things they may still require a good tug. Some are tighter than others.

When you reinstall there will be a solid click, click as it seats itself.

Ockman · #11 10-09-2006, 05:02 PM

Those torx screws can be a real PITA. I stripped the front one and had to drill it out. The screws are a bad design. I say that because the torx driver can't go down far enough into the screw and you end up stripping it. The one in the rear came out like butter.

The o ring replacement will do the trick. Just did this on my 99 last week. No more leak and the smell is gone!!

Good luck!

bmwtaylor · #12 10-09-2006, 07:51 PM

Do you guys know if the 1996 w210 has the same setup? I have developed a leak and it appears from what I can barely see that the IP looks wet around some of the connections.

uberwgn · #13 10-09-2006, 08:14 PM

Ok, I was forced to remove the IM which wasn't bad. I ended up removing both TORX (T30) bolts but much effort was still required to free the 2nd one.

Here's a picture of the old o-ring, note the square cross-section. I trust this is the source of my leak:

Here are final pictures of the plastic shutoff valve with two TORX screws indicated by arrows:

I am heading to the dealer in the AM for a couple of new bolts, IM gasket and a new o-ring for the EGR/intercooler connection. Everything else is back together. Final re-assembly won't take more than 20 minutes or so. I will likely apply a little anti-seize to those friggin' TORX bolts. I suspect this little o-ring will likely leak again some time in the future.

Matt L · #14 10-09-2006, 08:31 PM

Stuff some clean rags down those holes in the head!

uberwgn · #15 10-09-2006, 09:06 PM

Everything is covered now.

I needed to get some photos for the other thread with all exposed.