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#1
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What are the symptoms of bad axles?
I've got an '83 300D with 133,000 miles and a pretty serious issue. I have a very loud noise coming from what seems to be the rear of the car; like a machine gun only not as loud. As I slow down, the clanging slows down also. I replaced both rear sway bar endlinks hoping for a low dollar fix, but it didn't do the trick. There is nothing that is obvious when underneath the car. I took it to the mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong from a visual inspection. I have taken him for a ride on two separate occasions, and OF COURSE THE NOISE WENT AWAY!!!!!!
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#2
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did you check to see if something may be hitting the driveline? exhaust hanger, etc....
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rodney |
#3
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Given the constant velocity joint boot is torn, and the oil is on the driveway, I would suggest you found the problem. When this happened on one of my W123s the first time, it was quite alarming. A loud snapping metallic noise that is related to tire rotation speed. And, if the boot is torn and the joint isn't getting noisy yet, it will. The joint is worked pretty hard and without lubricants it gets rain and grit and other street debris inside and goes bad quickly. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#4
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Yes,
I checked everything and then the mechanic put it on a lift and went over it. He suspected the driveshaft (insert part name here), but it looked fine. I wish I could describe the noise a bit better. When it clanks, it sounds like two pieces of metal hitting each other if they were coated in undercoating. At 65mph, it's fast like a machine gun. If I get on the gas, the whole car vibrates. When I let off the gas, the vibration goes away, but the noise remains. The noise continues until I bring the car to a complete stop. It resumes about 15 minutes after I drop a mechanic off at his shop. Edit: Thanks Jim, I don't mind changing axels at all. I just don't want to fork over money for un-needed repairs. |
#5
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Not to hijack this thread, but my car has the same symptoms OCCASIONALLY, but only when accelerating, and only about halfway through second gear. It disappears as soon as I let off the accelerator, but returns when I start giving it fuel again. Sound like CV's to anyone? Thanks!
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1989 300E 144K |
#6
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Just out of curiosity.....
...does your emergency brake work?? Have you looked inside of the rear brake disc/drums.....any loose emergency brake parts in there??
You indicate that your CV joint boots are intact, all 4 of them...... One ol' salt to another..... SB Even looks like we have similar tastes in carz.....
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![]() Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#7
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Yep,
I removed the tires to change sway bar bushings and checked out both brake calipers. I did the brakes a year ago, so they are in great shape. I just finished ripping out the rear seat and checked the rear shock installation just to be sure. Aarrgghh!! |
#8
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You have a bad cv shaft
I would be willing to bet you have a bad passenger side cv shaft. My car did the exact same thing, like 2 metal pieces covered in rubber hitting each other. The right rear axle is the one that gets the majority of the power put to it. They are usually the first to go. I run a salvage yard so I took a used and in good condition drivers side cv shaft from a 240 and put it on the passenger side of my car. It fixed the problem. You have a bad cv shaft. The joints inside the housing spin inside of a hardened metal body. When the boot tears, the oil leaks out and it is virtually the same principle as running your engine with no oil. It tears them up, creates "slop" because of the worn metal. That is the clunking noise you are hearing.
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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes) 1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car) 1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine) 1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine) 1984 190D (sold and glad I did) 1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't) |
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