I brought my full set of 3/4" drive sockets for this task........unfortunately, none of them are large enough for the outer edge of the carrier.

Hmmm........It's been quite a while since I did this task. The set I used was cheap Harbor Freight. I don't recall the size but so far haven't run across one not big enough.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Brian, Vaseline petroleum jelly is mineral oil based. Why did you use this on the bearings instead of a water based lube?

regards,

Wayne

Yeah, I realize that I probably shouldn't have done it.........

What is the Forum's thoughts about using NAPA's Sil-Glyde (NAPA part # 765-1351) as a lubricant for installing the LCA inner bushing?

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Tom Evans
69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it)
73 220D 98K
78 300D 134K
78 300D 185K
81 300SD 301K (still have)
82 300SD 321K (still have)
84 300D 268K
84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!)

A water based lubricant like KY does no damage to the rubber bushings..

Sorry, thread came up and I read through this quickly. Did I read right that some are using OE brand parts? Never, ever do. I can not emphasize strongly enough against the OE brand. With my previous car and forum chat people almost lost vehicles by using OE parts in the suspension. Lower control arms would be bent in under 100 miles and rusty in less than 50. The quality of OE is that of most Harbor Freight tools! They may get the job done, but they will not last!

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car

I'm assuming that the initial post mentioning the OE eccentric pins were in reference to Original Equipment, meaning the parts that came on the car, or are dealer supplied.

I know nothing about a brand that is actually named OE, but that sounds suspiciously like they're trying to take advantage of the common recommendation to use OE/OEM parts...

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

That may be. And I dont want to mis-direct the thread. Just two quick links in case anyone looks into OE brand.

name/logo:
http://www.carparts.com/FPD-OE-Brand-Parts/4199996258-10618.car

one of many scary stories:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/184643-do-not-buy-fpd-o-e/

Thats all. Carry on!

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car

Is replacement of the eccentric pin a necessity or just recommended. Can it only be replaced while the lower control arm is separated from the body? I'd like to do this job soon, but my budget is tight. Thanks

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'81 300SD

Replacement of the eccentric pin is recommended in high corrosion areas.

It is the only fastener holding the lower control arm to the body.

I was unable to press the LCA bushings in (i wasted $60 ruining one, i paid to have them done). I dont think they are really intended to be changed, they are hard to get compared to replacement control arms. Other than that the job was pretty easy. Searching online can save more than a few bucks on the eccentric pins, unless the price on this website is way off (I paid about 50% of it for the same brand part in Mercedes logo bags).

The threads on mine were pretty chewed up. The car does have very high mileage though (400k+)

Thank goodness I have a midwesten livin car........well mostly...it did spend some time in Utah, but still.

It's the upper balljoint I'm worried about and thinking about just replacing when I do the rest of the front end work (soon I hope) she needs LOWER balljoints BAD I dont even wanna show yall those photos...LOL

Going to save the pics for a new post since it's a different topic.

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)