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  #16  
Old 11-20-2006, 04:38 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
The screw on mine does not have a slot in the end. It's more like just a threaded stud.

I tightened the lock nut back down to the point that when I applied further force the throttle linkage on the other side of the VCV started to move. Still the vac remains at 15".

I will continue to try and do something. I'll also try to post a pic of my set up.

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  #17  
Old 11-20-2006, 04:57 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
I completely removed the lock nut. Due to the vibration of the engine, the piece I earlier described as a nut with two flat surfaces located behind the lock nut slid out. When this piece slid out I could see that it is a round sleeve looking thing about 3/4" long with a slot in it.

With the piece partially withdrawn I can turn it. If I rotate it CCW I can get the vac down to 8". I cannot figure out a way to keep it there and tighten the lock nut.

I have some pics, but I haven't taken the time to figure out how to attach them
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2006, 05:10 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Can you turn the car off and find a small slot screwdriver that the locknut can slide on, then hold the scredriver with one hand and run the nut down finger tight, start the car and make the final adjustment and tighten?
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #19  
Old 11-20-2006, 05:39 PM
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Location: Baltimore
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I assume by flaring, you mean a soft delayed shift? Mine does that and I was told it was due to age.
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  #20  
Old 11-20-2006, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmtinker View Post
I assume by flaring, you mean a soft delayed shift? Mine does that and I was told it was due to age.
........Who told you that??
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  #21  
Old 11-20-2006, 05:43 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
........Who told you that??
No kidding! IT would only be due to age if proper maintenance was skipped, then is becomes known as slippage.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:11 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Trials and Tribulations

Did you guys think I went AWOL? At least I still have a since of humor My Wife is sure feeling neglected and letting me know about it.

I was able to put some pressure in a CCW direction against one of the two flat edges on the slotted sleeve I described earlier. By going in a CCW direction I was able to get the vac down to 7"-8". After a couple of failed attempts I got the lock nut tightened down and everything held in place.

I was going to take it for a test drive when I looked over and saw the plastic "U" shaped tube of the turbo sitting un-attached. I tried forever to get it to stay in place. I have no idea what the problem is with it, as it still is not solid. A little pressure, and I'm sure vibration, and it will come off. If you guys have any suggestions on this I'd love to hear them. For the life of me I can't get the clamps to hold it on reliably. I'm ready to JB Weld it in place

I then went to start the car again for the test drive and it would not crank over. Nothing. Tried to jump start it without success. Put a volt meter on the batt and it read 10 volts, dropping to 5 when I tried to crank the engine.

After making a trip out to get a new battery, I started the car, went for a drive with my son and was pleasantly surprised that everything seems to be working fine.

I do wonder why the batt went dead. It didn't give any warning. I'm not taking the time to investigate that tonight. Do you think it was from all of the idling while trouble shooting the vac system today? I didn't think the car was idling too long. The battery was only 4 months old.

I had planned to change out the brake fluid tomorrow, but I think I need a break. My patience is at its limit.

In closing, thank you Brian for the help. Your advice was invaluable. A check is in the mail for your EGR blocking kit, since I have all of those hoses now removed anyway.

If anyone wants to shoot from the hip regarding my battery problem or turbo problem today, I'd love to hear from them.

Tobybul, was my experience any help to you?
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemediceric View Post
I was going to take it for a test drive when I looked over and saw the plastic "U" shaped tube of the turbo sitting un-attached. I tried forever to get it to stay in place. I have no idea what the problem is with it, as it still is not solid. A little pressure, and I'm sure vibration, and it will come off. If you guys have any suggestions on this I'd love to hear them. For the life of me I can't get the clamps to hold it on reliably. I'm ready to JB Weld it in place

I then went to start the car again for the test drive and it would not crank over. Nothing. Tried to jump start it without success. Put a volt meter on the batt and it read 10 volts, dropping to 5 when I tried to crank the engine.

After making a trip out to get a new battery, I started the car, went for a drive with my son and was pleasantly surprised that everything seems to be working fine.

I do wonder why the batt went dead. It didn't give any warning. I'm not taking the time to investigate that tonight. Do you think it was from all of the idling while trouble shooting the vac system today? I didn't think the car was idling too long. The battery was only 4 months old.

I had planned to change out the brake fluid tomorrow, but I think I need a break. My patience is at its limit.

In closing, thank you Brian for the help. Your advice was invaluable. A check is in the mail for your EGR blocking kit, since I have all of those hoses now removed anyway.

If anyone wants to shoot from the hip regarding my battery problem or turbo problem today, I'd love to hear from them.

Tobybul, was my experience any help to you?
Good job. It sounds like the shifts are now firmer without flaring, correct?

With regard to the U-tube, there are a couple of heavy rubber rings on the inside of that tube that get old and need to be replaced. Without a good grip on the rubber, you'll never get the tube to tighten. Here is the scoop on replacing them:

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesintakeseal_ringreplac.htm

The battery seems like an unfortunate coincidence. They will typically allow the dome light to remain on overnight and still give you plenty of starting power. You couldn't have killed it by idling it all afternoon.

Yep, sit back and take a break. They can be an exasperation if you take on too much........too soon.

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 11-20-2006 at 07:47 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
No kidding! IT would only be due to age if proper maintenance was skipped, then is becomes known as slippage.
It was on another board. I usually take my car to a German type specialist that has a good reputation and has done great work for me. I was just surprised that he didn't notice it or at least comment on it to me. I would have thought it would have been noticed and asked me if I wanted to fix it.
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  #25  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:46 PM
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Also, it only does it when the car is cold, usually worse when its cold out.
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  #26  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmtinker View Post
It was on another board. I usually take my car to a German type specialist that has a good reputation and has done great work for me. I was just surprised that he didn't notice it or at least comment on it to me. I would have thought it would have been noticed and asked me if I wanted to fix it.
Well, age definitely affects the unit. But, with some tweaking, you can delay the inevitable............
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  #27  
Old 11-20-2006, 08:00 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Transmissions do need to warm up also. When cold, they will make firmer shifts, or take longer to shift, etc. That is why the general advice to to drive a car easy like when cold, as the oils do not flow as well, and become more tacky and thick. Clutch pack linings getting thin and worn out cause slipping. A filter getting plugged up, allows the clutchs inside the packs to rub and wear out, causing slipping. Do not do just a fluid flush. Always change the filter! Also the bottom of the tranny pan will tell you if it's healthy or not.

Lots of fluid dynamics in an automatic tranny, and all the more reason to maintain them like the engines, plenty of fluid and filter changes will keep them happy and give them a long service life.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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