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  #31  
Old 11-27-2006, 06:07 PM
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Location: Vulcan, AB, Canada
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I left my manifold on, and removed the injector lines. just number them as you take them off. Very simple with a sharpie marker, and saves a lot of headaches later. you'll need a 10mm sockes to disconnect the wires, and a 12mm deep socket to take the glow plugs out. Head gasket failure is an option, but the glow plugs are much easier to replace to see if that is the problem. If you're wondering aobut the head gasket bolts, it's a #10 triple square that is required. Snap on has them available. I can supply torque specs if necessary. PS if you live in a cold climate, don't buy cheap glow plugs. You'll regret it later.

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  #32  
Old 11-27-2006, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandlj View Post
OK I have been using the Mobil 1 Truck/SUV diesel synthetic 5W-40 oil. I had a bottle in the trunk and it is specifically for diesel motors.
The oil smoke really concerns me and the stumbling idle when cold ( it stutters ) led me to think fuel problem. I looked at my pre filter and it is a little cloudy? It usually looks like golden honey. No chunks of anything in the pre filter.

If this turns out to be a headgasket, how difficult on a 603 to replace?
I have no dealer here in Monroe LA. The car has only 90,800 miles on it and has been mechanically maintained by myself and the original owner. He bought it new in 86 and I bought it in 2005 with 79,000 miles.
The body has no rust but has issues on the passenger front and rear doors from parking problems by the 82 year old first owner.

What I am driving at is if it is the head gasket, by the way the head is a 14,
maybe I should warm it up and trade it in, because when warm it is the smoothest, quietest diesel I have ever owned.

Advice?
To answer your question about difficulty replacing the head gasket....Expect to spend all of your Saturday....you will have to make access via removal of several obstacles, a hoist etc. When I did mine I replaced all of the STRETCH bolts and followed the head gasket instructions to the letter about fastening sequences, tightening etc. I would recommend you do a compression test and if all that is proper look for leaks such as main seals etc. Injectors can be loud too but rod bearing knocks usually come and go on hills if really bad....they don't go away after warm-up either.

Change your secondary canister fuel filter......it takes a while for diesel engines to run nice between crap fuel and good fuel......you can mistake oil smoke form diesel smoke and think you have an oil burner when you really have only a dirty fuel system. Do a compression test..........

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