GASP! NO! (insert explicative here!) 603 help - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hit Man X · #31 11-23-2006, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

Can you not use the rv device to indicate the injection pump is positioned properly at start of injection until you have the pump slid in? I again have never done one of these pumps. Glad the chain did not slide by and still think if it had you might have got away with it at cranking speed. Thats less likely if the valves are less than perpendicular to the piston surface. I live such a sheltered life that I have never had a 603 valve cover off. The moment arm position of the rocker arm to cam would give some additional clue if the valve train would survive at very low revolutions with really off timing. The volkswagen cam drives the hydralic lifters directly and that lessens the actual stress to some point.

Hrm, I bet I could use the AB light to get the pump on then reinstall!

sixto · #32 11-23-2006, 06:23 PM

You don't need the A-B light before installing the IP. Use your eyes to see when the lug is centered in the port. Use the A-B light once it's installed to get it in time.

If you use the A-B light before installing the light, ground the IP to the battery you're using to power the A-B light.

As you get the IP in place, hold it so the block bolt holes are centered in the IP slots. If it's at or close to an extreme, you might not have enough adjustment range.

I suspect your brother didn't try to start the car. It would be more of a mess if he did. If he did crank the engine then my next concern is the tensioner. It might have extended some in the absence of the IP which will make it difficult to hang the timer on the IP (always a fun solo job). I'm sure you'll let us know how that goes

If you didn't disconnect the battery before removing the IP, now you know why shop manuals have that as the first step

Sixto
93 300SD

Hit Man X · #33 11-24-2006, 10:41 AM

Going for parts here in about an hour, will report back later today.

I do need TQ specs for the 17mm bolt (I think) that holds the pump to the timer and the vac pump bolts.

sixto · #34 11-24-2006, 01:01 PM

If your cam bolt has a 6-point head the torque is 65Nm/48 lbft. If by some odd chance you have the later 12-pint head, the torque is 25Nm/18 lbft plus 90-degrees.

The IP R&R section says to reference procedure 43-610 for the vacuum pump but I can't find that procedure in the FSM. It's probably no more than 20 lbft with the timer at a low so the pump housing isn't being pushed away from the block.

Sixto
93 300SD

Hit Man X · #35 11-24-2006, 02:53 PM

Got my parts, only about $36 @ dealer wholesale. Can't beat that.

Good deal on the torque specs, since BG is down... I'll have to go buy the FSM.

Hit Man X · #36 11-26-2006, 01:19 PM

Pump is resealed, will start to reinstall later today.

jshadows · #37 11-26-2006, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Pump is resealed, will start to reinstall later today.

Any chance you can post some info on resealing the pump? My 603 pump is a little leaky.

Thanks

Hit Man X · #38 11-26-2006, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshadows

Any chance you can post some info on resealing the pump? My 603 pump is a little leaky.

Thanks

Sure, what would you like me to show? Pics?

sixto · #39 11-26-2006, 03:35 PM

I have an IP out of the car too if anyone needs pics. Resealing it is on my to-do list.

Any tips or tricks, Hit Man?

Sixto
93 300SD

Hit Man X · #40 11-26-2006, 03:37 PM

VERY simple. The only thing to mention is not to over torque the side seal above the lift pump, it's only rubber and will distort. All others are paper.

It's a good time to play with full load too

jshadows · #41 11-26-2006, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Sure, what would you like me to show? Pics?

Pics would be great. And where did you get the gasket/seals? Stealership?

Where would you rate difficulty on a 1-10 scale and time required minus a few SNAFU's?

Hit Man X · #42 11-26-2006, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshadows

Pics would be great. And where did you get the gasket/seals? Stealership?

Where would you rate difficulty on a 1-10 scale and time required minus a few SNAFU's?

Mkay, I'll get some.

1-10? Maybe a 2 or 3 for me? I'm pretty comfortable with most stuff, so it could very well be much higher for you. I had the intake, cruise servo, and IP off in less than a few hours. That includes gathering tools too.

It's probably a 5-8 hour job dependent on beer consumption and your skill level.

JimmyL · #43 11-27-2006, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

It's probably a 5-8 hour job dependent on beer consumption and your skill level.

Longer if your brother tries to start it with IP off.........

Hit Man X · #44 11-27-2006, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Longer if your brother tries to start it with IP off.........

lol It's raining here, so we'll see if I get to it today.

gsxr · #45 11-27-2006, 03:46 PM

It's not hard to re-seal most of the pump. The bottom cover, and ELR, are O-rings. The side cover is flat rubber. The governor cover is paper. The shutoff lever shaft uses the same size O-ring as one of the two fuel filter center bolt O-rings. And, there's an O-ring between the pump and the block.

The problem I'm having on three different pumps is an oil leak at the L7 connector housing. The O-ring seal is internal and, for all intents and purposes, impossible to remove & replace. (I tried on a spare pump - and I wouldn't attempt it on a good pump.) Any tips on how to cure this leak? I'm thinking of unscrewing the external lock ring, cleaning the area where it protrudes from the pump, shooting RTV around the base, and screwing the lock ring back down. Anyone successfully fixed this? It's very annoying.

:fork_off: