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  #1  
Old 11-29-2006, 11:42 PM
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E300 fuel problems, I need to talk to him tomorrow

First thank all of you that post and answer. Your wealth of knowledge has helped me become very familiar with my newly acquired 1996 e300. Now the problem…

The car stalled and died shortly after I purchased it. I changed the prefilter, o ring and fuel filter with no luck. I took it apart and reinstalled them and bam, it ran, for 2 miles anyway then it stalled. It started back up so I drove it home.

Since then I changed the shutoff valve and o ring, all the plastic fuel lines and the k 40 relay. No luck so I had it towed to an independent Mercedes tech.

They got it running but you could see the air flowing through the lines and it would stall quickly. They called me this evening and said it was the fuel delivery computer; the part is $1,200.00 and has to be coded to my specific car.

I’m not so sure about this and it would seem to me that I have an air leek which is the problem (don’t know where) and not a computer error (would it put out a code) but I’m not a Mercedes tech and I couldn’t get my lawnmower started because the rear bagger wasn’t latched down (I found out it has a sensor).

Any input?
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2006, 12:07 AM
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Seeing air in the lines sounds like a problem; but you know this already.

Some questions: Do you see air in the line to the prefilter? If so, the leak precedes that. Otherwise, are you sure that the prefilter O-ring has sealed properly? Do you have any fuel leaking from the shut-off valve when the engine is stopped?
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2006, 12:31 AM
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Post

Will they pay for the part if it turns out it's not necessary? I had a similar problem on my 98. It was a part located at the front of the engine and very near the fuel filter. It had many fuel lines running to it. When mine failed, the dealer said he had many more in the shop for the same reason. I'm sorry I can't describe the part better or be of more help but I'd think long and hard before I spent 1200 bucks on a guess.
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2006, 12:31 AM
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I agree with matt. Look for the source of air entering. The computer shouldnt cause that.

Check your pre-filter again. I had trouble getting mine sealed once after replacing the o-ring. Had to crimp the washer and put a little silicone grease on the o-ring to get it sealed.

MBDOC said in a post yesterday that stalling a few miles after cold start could also be caused by the fuel thermostat.
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2006, 08:13 AM
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Fuel delivery computer? Whats that then?

How can a fuel delivery computer introduce air into the system?

Sorry for sounding cynical.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2006, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom View Post
Fuel delivery computer? Whats that then?

How can a fuel delivery computer introduce air into the system?

Sorry for sounding cynical.
Yeah, exactly...this sounds bad.

The very first thing I'd do is check all of the lines to make sure they are all routed correctly. It's really easy to push one into the wrong side of the lift pump or shutoff valve and not notice it.

Don't take for granted it was right when you bought it, maybe someone screwed it up before you ever saw it and you just copied their routing and duplicated the problem. Then, assuming the lines were all routed right I would check each line, one by one to make sure its o-ring was sealing right, but start on the pre-filter before you get that far.

I'd bet $10 they pre-filter o-ring is at fault. This one has caused more agitation on this car than any other part. A $0.10 part that has probably lead to more people selling these cars than any other. I'd bet $100 it's not a computer problem if you are seeing air in the lines. Find another shop or fix it yourself unless this guy is so sure that he'll not charge you if it doesn't fix it I would not approve him installing a $1200 part by the "shotgun" method.

Since essentially the entire system is under vacuum from the tank through to the lift pump any seal failure in any of those fuel lines or connections will cause air to be drawn into the fuel system. In my opinion this is the worst design MB ever came up with.

Why they would design a system that has the fuel pump located under the hood, downstream of at least a half-dozen o-rings is beyond me. It's much easier to find a faulty seal under pressure than it is under vacuum but having the pump draw the fuel through all these lines is what makes it really hard to find a failed one. That's just about the only good thing about putting a fuel pump in the fuel tank is that it eliminates the possibility of drawing air from a failed seal on the "sucking" side of the pump. This system almost invites that sort of failure by its very design.

Bottom line is this...find the failed seal and you will eliminate the problem. It could even be a blocked screen in the tank, just use logic and follow the fuel path from the tank to the IP and it will get solved.
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Last edited by whunter; 01-04-2008 at 03:28 AM.
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2006, 09:12 AM
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Could it be that a vacuum system would result in air drawn in, whereas a traditional system results in fuel being pumped out?

Obviously diesel on the roads is a very bad thing. Petrol in an engine bay doesn't bear thinking about.
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2006, 09:20 AM
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thanks, I am going to charge up the battery and see how that goes. Also, I found a broken wire on the EGR valve. I soldered it and I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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  #9  
Old 12-14-2006, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_russo View Post
thanks, I am going to charge up the battery and see how that goes. Also, I found a broken wire on the EGR valve. I soldered it and I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Do you mean on the Vacuum solenoid? There aren't any wires on the EGR valve as it is vacuum actuated.
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  #10  
Old 12-14-2006, 11:44 PM
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Hummm.
It was on the pass side front of the cross over pipe. It has a connector with three wires. Didn't drive the car today so don't know what if any result
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  #11  
Old 12-15-2006, 07:57 AM
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The EGR valve is located on the driver's side of the car, just under the point where the intake turns down. There's a controller on the passenger side for the turbo wastegate that has wires and vacuum lines in it...don't know if that's what you're talking about though.
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2006, 12:20 AM
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Update
Mechanic could not duplicate the problem (stalling). I am sending the computer out to ecudirect.com for testing/rebuild. If that doesn't work I'll move onto the wiring harness.
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2006, 12:53 AM
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When my shutoff valve went bad it would shut down instantly, w/o warning, at any speed or driving condition....Was as if key were turned off.

Different than you have clarified yours is reacting.

I think testing the ECU as MBDOC said is your best bet.

If it tests good, I might replace the shutoff valve (if you haven't already) before doing the harness. They are expensive. I know. Mine flew here from Germany (probably first class ).

edit: had the chance to re-read the whole thread again and see you DID replace the shutoff valve.
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09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Last edited by TMAllison; 12-21-2006 at 01:48 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2006, 09:22 AM
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alarm

If its not too much trouble, try to disconnect the car alarm. My friend suffered a mental breakdown chasing gremlins. He got better when he disconnected the alarm system. I recall he said it was under the passenger floor mat. Of course you know this is only a wildass guess, but when you reach that point....
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2006, 09:16 AM
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Not sure what this is but the broken wire was here
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