|
|
|
|
|
#1
02-04-2007, 11:40 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Loose vacuum lines
My wagon turns off with the key without hesitation, the shifts are smooth, brakes good, locks don't work but I have to investigate that (found a golf tee in a line under the hood), so I figure I've got a pretty good vacuum system. Today the car wouldn't shut off and the shifts were really jerky. I figured I must have knocked a line loose while poking around under the hood while changing a headlight. Sure enough, one of the lines at the 4-way connector near the brake booster had come loose. I slipped in back in the 4-way and the car was back to normal. The thing that surprised me was how easily it can slip out again. Can I firm up this connection with something? I don't want to glue it in case I ever need to disconnect it again. Anybody got any suggestions?
Also, the line with the golf tee looks like it should connect with a line going into the fire wall...maybe the reason the locks don't work. And there's a purple line with a yellow stipe (i think) that comes from that area around the front of the engine bay and ends up on the passenger side of the valve cover by the air cleaner area, and its plugged with a screw. Anyone know what that's for? I can provide more info tomorrow if needed. But the car seems to work fine so I'm content without messing with it. Just curious I guess... Appreciate the help, -Geoff
__________________
1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now 
|
|
#2
02-04-2007, 11:50 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Are the two small nipples on the check valve on your brake booster vacuum line still intact? One of mine is broken off, so I have it rigged up right now where I can just slide the plastic line into the hole where the nipple was. It works for shutting the car off, but my vacuum slowly leaks out.
__________________
"There are a lot of pebbles on the beach, but there's a Little Rock in Arkansas." Logan 1983 300D Turbodiesel 1976 300D Rustdiesel
|
|
#3
02-05-2007, 12:03 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The 'proper' answer to the question about tightening the vacuum tees is to replace them with a new and tight one, but the previous owner of my car found another solution.
Glue. I suspect it's something along the lines of Goop, but someone glued all the vacuum lines into the fittings. It looks like I should be able to pry or peel them out of the fittings if I need to, but they all have this little tracing of some sort of white glue at every joint. I have had no leaks from any of the fittings so treated, which says something to me.
__________________
-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...
|
|
#4
02-05-2007, 12:18 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Vacuum Lines
Get new 4 and 3 way connectors at Fastlane here or other places...they do not cost much and are very tight on the hardlines when new....the old ones get soft over time and cause all sorts of leaks....Might as well change all of them.....
Sounds like the plugged line is for your locking system (yellow)....probably a leak somewhere that the line goes to.... You can find that leak with a little time inside the cabin or trunk...then you can re-connect and enjoy good locking doors, trunk and fuel flap.....Lots of folks here in the forum that will help steer you to the leak when you post back progress questions along that system...
__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad) 1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad) 1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad) (Open the pod bay doors HAL)
|
|
#5
02-05-2007, 07:27 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The golf tee'd line sounds like the line to the door locks. Often the vacuum lines in the door locks crack from being opened and closed a million times, and the vacuum leaks out. Too much of a leak will cause your gears to not change properly, so that's probably why it is blocked up.
There is a really good article on this site with a full write up of how to troubleshoot and fix the door lock leak problem. Have a search through the site, and the DIY section that has articles.
__________________
1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles
|
|
#6
02-05-2007, 06:13 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Replace that 4 way with a three way when you take out the EGR crap. Brian Carlton helped me.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD
|
|
#7
02-05-2007, 06:47 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Is the EGR on near the front of the valve cover? Kind of on the pass. side between the air cleaner and the valve cover near the front? its round on top about 2-3" across? Because it looks like that's where the vacuum line came from. If its not needed, I'll change out the 4-way with a 3-way.
What's it do anyway? *edit* Here's a pic...see it right between the valve cover and the air cleaner? A round thing tilted to the side...that's the EGR? Larger version here: http://flickr.com/photos/geoffreyforest/369145858/in/set-72157594499635831/ 
__________________
1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi 1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now Last edited by pizzachef; 02-05-2007 at 06:53 PM. Reason: add pic
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
