Junkyard Radiators - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

savage10ne · #1 12-05-2006, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Dog

Tom, I think its close tolerances and tight clearances where MB screws up alot. When turning on the heat drops coolant temp by 5 degrees, you can bet there's not alot of play in a cooling system that finely tuned.

After hitting a deer with my 240D couple of years ago, installing a junkyard Mitsubishi radiator made all the difference in the world - vastly improved engine cooling in Summer months and never ran cold in Winter either. And the Mitsubishi rad was a perfect fit that even left room for the oil cooler.

i found this quote to be quite interesting...Because my 1984 300 SD is running a lil too hot. Around the 95 c during normal driving and very cold weather. And I found out that doing a radator flush, doesn't get rid of all the metal and sediment in a bad radiator. Anyways, Does anyone know of any high quality junkyard radiators that you can put into a 1984 300 SD?

Thanks,
Tk

vstech · #2 12-05-2006, 01:09 PM

I haven't given it much thought, but I wonder what mitsu rad went in? I find it hard to believe that a 4cyl radiator is better than a turbo 5 cyl diesel one...

I have been thinking about removing the fan and clutch and putting on a large electric fan...

Cephallus · #3 12-05-2006, 01:16 PM

I would recommend a flex-a-lite fan. They are efficient and effective, and reduce the (slight) parasitic drag of the main fan on the engine. Hey, every little bit helps...

Hit Man X · #4 12-05-2006, 02:46 PM

Radiators are one thing I typically don't get from a parts yard unless I know it's very clean internally or pretty much new.

Two things I do not see you receiving with one for a 20 year old car. Most of the ones I see are OE from when the car was built.

KCM · #5 12-05-2006, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by savage10ne

...Because my 1984 300 SD is running a lil too hot. Around the 95 c during normal driving and very cold weather.Tk

Here is something I recently discovered. The new aftermarket radiator I installed in my car a couple years ago started leaking, which turned out to be due to a loose side bracket that punctured a tube. Anyway, I was considering installing a junkyard Behr radiator that started leaking shortly after I brought it home (didn't at the junkyard, still full of anti-freeze). Took the tank off to fix the leak and found out the Behr had an aluminum core. Took the tank off the new aftermarket and found a copper core. From the study of heat transfer, the heat transfer coefficient is almost twice as great for copper as it is for aluminum. This means copper can transfer heat much more efficiently and quicker than aluminum. So if your car has an aluminum cored radiator, it will not keep the car as cool as a copper cored one. Might try scrapping some paint off of the core tubes and seeing what it is made of.

Ended up soldering the new copper radiator and reinstalled. Hasn't leaked yet.

rg2098 · #6 12-05-2006, 05:16 PM

You might want to try a new thermostat. I was battling the same issue all summer, and the 'stat was the root cause. I have never once come close to overheating with the stock cooling system, I would buy the correct OEM radiator.

Wallknight · #7 12-05-2006, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cephallus

I would recommend a flex-a-lite fan. They are efficient and effective, and reduce the (slight) parasitic drag of the main fan on the engine. Hey, every little bit helps...

Wouldn't that just transfer the drag from the OE fan to the alternator, to supply power to the electric fan?

Hit Man X · #8 12-05-2006, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallknight

Wouldn't that just transfer the drag from the OE fan to the alternator, to supply power to the electric fan?

No. Typical misconception.

Cephallus · #9 12-05-2006, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallknight

Wouldn't that just transfer the drag from the OE fan to the alternator, to supply power to the electric fan?

The alternator is already in the belt path and turning all the time - increasing the current draw of the system does nothing to increase the mechanical rotating resistance of the alternator itself. Whereas a clutched fan will add an additional load to the crank/pulley system when it engages.

Assuming you're not running a huge amp and subwoofers on your stock, 30yo alternator, your system should handle an efficient electric fan just fine.

Hit Man X · #10 12-05-2006, 07:55 PM

It's not just the fan, it's the fan controller that makes ALL the difference.

300SDog · #11 12-05-2006, 08:09 PM

Mitsubishi junkyard radiator for my '79 240D came right off the rack. I matched it up according to position of the hoses, and everything fit fine. Can provide parts number tomorrow when it's daylight. It has now been in the car 2 years and about 40k miles.

Wallknight · #12 12-07-2006, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cephallus

The alternator is already in the belt path and turning all the time - increasing the current draw of the system does nothing to increase the mechanical rotating resistance of the alternator itself.

Ok, so why when, say turning on headlights, jumpstarting another car, etc., does is sound like the engine is working harder?

Sorry to be a hijacker.

300SDog · #13 12-07-2006, 03:17 PM

Could be a gasoline engine phenomenon you're talking about where electricity gets robbed from the ignition system.

rrgrassi · #14 12-07-2006, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallknight

Ok, so why when, say turning on headlights, jumpstarting another car, etc., does is sound like the engine is working harder?

Sorry to be a hijacker.

The mechanical resistance stays the same. It's the magnetic resistance that changes. As lights, Air conditioning, etc are turned on, the alternator must make more amps to meet demand. More amps needed mean more magnetic resistance encountered.

Even when driving, say at night and you have the heater blowing full blast, and you decide to turn on the rear defroster. You will see your lights dim and hear your blower run a tad slower, that is because of the additional demand for power, and the low amp alternators are barely adequate to keep up.

By adding the new demand for electricity, the magnetic resistance just increased, which does take additional ponies to spin the alternator. This is really noticed on gassers since they require electricity for thier ignition.

Wallknight · #15 12-07-2006, 03:55 PM

right, so, while switching to an electric fan may reduce drag on the engine, it does not eliminate it altogether.