I guess ALL the lines need to be changed - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 12-05-2006, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monomer

I used rubber hoses on the low pressure return line, and hardlines for the brake/high pressure fuel lines.

Correct me if I am wrong, but they are both low pressure.

pawoSD · #17 12-05-2006, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tabor

Correct me if I am wrong, but they are both low pressure.

You would be correct. 0 pressure in the supply line, and probably less than 1-2psi in the return line.

Monomer · #18 12-05-2006, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tabor

Correct me if I am wrong, but they are both low pressure.

It's a gasser W126

it uses a 98psi (!!!!) supply line.

be sure to use the proper metric flare nut tool. many stripped connectors/unions if you dont.

pawoSD · #19 12-05-2006, 08:19 PM

Oh yeah....on a gasser its definatley high pressure. That 380 is tempting, I am tempted to make an offer....its that one on craigslist detroit right??

Monomer · #20 12-05-2006, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Oh yeah....on a gasser its definatley high pressure. That 380 is tempting, I am tempted to make an offer....its that one on craigslist detroit right??

sure is.

I'd give it away for a fairly good price, if I know shes' going to a good home.

shoot me a PM.

Hatterasguy · #21 12-05-2006, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

We're going to use all OEM metal lines, total cost is just under $120 for all including the brake line, we bought a tube bender so we're set there.

The distributor looks ok and survived the line removal, I was very careful. The rest of the rear beake equipment is doing ok still.

Your wasting a lot of money, Autozone sells the exact same brake line for a couple of bucks. They also rent the the tools to you for free! Go to Autozone spend $20-$30 get all the lines and replace them all. Did it on the SDL a couple of years ago.

#22 12-05-2006, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monomer

it uses a 98psi (!!!!) supply line.

FWIW, you can get high pressure flexible line. 75% of the line on my Volvo has now been replaced with flexible line. However, Volvo was pretty smart and used plastic encased in rubber - it won't rust.

Wallknight · #23 12-05-2006, 09:30 PM

Napa was $25 for twice what I needed. Maybe the alchemists at MB are better, though.

iNeon · #24 12-05-2006, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tabor

Because the though process that you go through when you replace a part on one car that you own twenty years after it ended production should not be the same thought process that the original manufacturer went through while designing the car. The metal fuel line is in all likelyhood less expensive to manufacture than rubber, when done in bulk. Also, flexible line technology may have changed sugnificantly in the last thirty years. Metal lines have advantages, so do flexible lines. Metal lines can actually crack.

Finally, I just hate this argument that if the factory did something one way it must be the only way. Don't do a bad job, but don't be afraid to do something different either.

If the metal line is $51, I would probably buy it. Despite what I have said, all things equal, I do like to keep things stock. But if it was $200, I wouldn't. YMMV.

You missed the jab I was taking at Mr. Pawo!

He and I have differing opinions on such matters and most of that reply was tongue-in-cheek!!

My 240D has zip ties holding the exhaust up for the last year! I ordered 3 sets of doughnuts, but since the zip ties seem to last longer....

Monomer · #25 12-05-2006, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tabor

FWIW, you can get high pressure flexible line. 75% of the line on my Volvo has now been replaced with flexible line. However, Volvo was pretty smart and used plastic encased in rubber - it won't rust.

It does have a flex line on it, leading into the distributer.

As of now, it has a rubber "Fuel injector hose" (goodyear brand, good to 100psi) going from the union under the car to the distrobuters flex line. It's currently leaking, and needs to be replaced (it was a temp. fix until I got my diesel)

when installing flex line, going from a hard line; use a flare on the hardline to give the hose clamp something to grip - this is how most modern car's do it. Also be sure to use fuel injector line clamps (they dont cut into the tubing)

mobetta · #26 12-06-2006, 09:54 AM

i ran the clear-blue plastic line from tank to LP on my diesel. the kind motorcycles use. $15 for 20 ft of 5/16. no problems yet, and it took 10 minutes to fix. i haven't used bio in it,(except the 2% min required in MN) but have heard that it is safe.

patbob · #27 12-06-2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iNeon

.. I wouldn't trust rubber where metal was used as factory.

Could switching the lines to rubber be an accident safety risk? Sure, I know diesel isn't as flammable, but with all sort of sharp edges potentially flying around in an accident, and the fact one may be driving over things generally not meant to be driven over, could using metal lines for the under-car runs (ie. the parts least protected) be a safer solution?

iNeon · #28 12-06-2006, 03:29 PM

Well, that was why I recommended using the metal lines. It isn't so much that I'm a stickler for stuttgartian pseudo worship-- It's that with a rubber line between the road(where ALL puncture hazards are found) and your floorboard, there would seem to be a MUCH higher risk for punctures.

Metal will puncture just like the rubber/soft lines will, but not so readily-- that is why I recommended it's use in this application.

And I still think a white 240D AMG with blacked-out trim and a black ducktail would rock.

pawoSD · #29 12-08-2006, 08:41 PM

We bought a roll of 5/16" line for $17, its tough stuff, going to be interesting to bend it properly.

Wallknight · #30 12-08-2006, 09:05 PM

Harbor Freight's $5 bender works fine. For most of it, your bare hands should be strong enough. Just remember to tape the new line to the old line as you go from bend to bend.