Wheel bearing types and stubborn races - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jkid · #1 12-07-2006, 09:43 PM

I went to my local parts store to get new front wheel bearings, and the guy told me there are two different types of bearings for the 300SD, cone shaped and tapered shaped I believe is what he said. So I got home and pulled my bearings out... they look like every other bearing I've ever seen, which I think are all tapered bearings. I can't really see how the same model car could have two different bearing requirements.
While I'm at it, are there any 'tricks' to get the smaller, outer race out other than persistence and patience? Which I don't have a lot of sometimes. There is very little space to get a punch on it. It keeps slipping off...

jaoneill · #2 12-07-2006, 09:55 PM

I believe that he probably didn't realize that a bearing set is comprised of a cone and a race - most aftermarket outfits sell tham separately therefore there are 2 part #'s for one set (not 2 different bearings).

Next time you go in ask if there is anyone there that knows more than your kid brother. Better yet call Phil, or hit the "buy parts" button at the top of your screen.

Use one of those funky looking square / tapered / half pointy looking punches.

Best of luck,
Jim

PS - A 6" pole barn nail also works real well, the mild steel won't ding up the seat, but the point tends to flatten out, good for one use only. Use a minimum 3 lb hammer; more shock value.

Surf-n-Turf · #3 12-07-2006, 10:10 PM

If I could invent a spring loaded three end flat punch to knock out races, I could be a thousand-aire.

They are a PITA but it has to be done.

Jkid · #4 12-07-2006, 10:31 PM

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ask if there is anyone there that knows more than your kid brother

Yes, I thought I smelled a hint of crack on his breath.

Quote:

A 6" pole barn nail also works real well, the mild steel won't ding up the seat, but the point tends to flatten out, good for one use only.

Great idea. I bet that would grab the edge pretty good. I've already knachered up the seat a little.

Quote:

hit the "buy parts" button at the top

Unfortunately I've got to get the car on the road asap (The bearing makes an aweful racket so I don't feel comfortable driving it) and I think the wife wants her car back. Good help though, thanks.

jaoneill · #5 12-07-2006, 11:12 PM

3 lb hammer. You can tap with a puny little 16 oz ball peen hammer until the cows come home and all you will have for your efforts is a mess. Same theory as an impact wrench, IMPACT is the operative word.

Use a large vise-grip pliars to hold the punch, drift, or whatever, (this keeps your hand out of the way so that you're not afraid to HIT it) get a good purchase on the race and HIT that sucker.

Another old indian trick (taught to me by an old indian) is to use a regular flat chisel (with the flat against the concave of the hub), slanted across the axle hole; wedge it in there. This gives you two purchase points on the race and the force when you hit it tends to hold the business end of the chisel tight to the wall of the hub. But use the vise grips, wear a heavy leather glove and SLAM that thing.

BTW how far "upstate" are you.

Jim

#6 12-07-2006, 11:31 PM

If you know someone with a welder, they can lay a bead of weld around the middle of the inside of the race. The race will shrink and almost fall out. Works all the time on motorcycles neck bearings.

Though, who has time for all that?

Just make sure to be patient, and alternate back and forth. It's a tight fit, and if you get it cocked, it will not want to leave it's home. You are only moving the race a couple of thousands of an inch every time you whack it.

I put the new races in a zip-lock bag and freeze them for a couple of hours, they slide in a little easier that way.

OMEGAMAN · #7 12-08-2006, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Holmes III

If you know someone with a welder, they can lay a bead of weld around the middle of the inside of the race. The race will shrink and almost fall out. Works all the time on motorcycles neck bearings.

Though, who has time for all that?

Just make sure to be patient, and alternate back and forth. It's a tight fit, and if you get it cocked, it will not want to leave it's home. You are only moving the race a couple of thousands of an inch every time you whack it.

I put the new races in a zip-lock bag and freeze them for a couple of hours, they slide in a little easier that way.

Beat me to it

barry123400 · #8 12-08-2006, 02:14 AM

To avoid any damage on the new race drive it home with a piece of brass or brass punch. Steel on steel is not good and you might damage the race face if it slips. There is not much of an edge to drive on when installing. Plus with steel on steel you may raise a slight area where you are hitting. You probably were aware of this but just in case. The use of freezing makes it far easier as well as others have mentioned.

vstech · #9 12-08-2006, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

To avoid any damage on the new race drive it home with a piece of brass or brass punch. Steel on steel is not good and you might damage the race face if it slips. There is not much of an edge to drive on when installing. Plus with steel on steel you may raise a slight area where you are hitting. You probably were aware of this but just in case. The use of freezing makes it far easier as well as others have mentioned.

NO NO NO!
it's best to spend 12.00 on a Race installation kit... it will be in a nice plastic case filled with several tapered aluminum cones that fit the race, and a handle with a bolt to hold it onto the cone. set the race on the cone, and whack away.
this way the race never tilts because you are holding it straight.
any auto parts place that rents tools, will have it in stock. they charge you12.oo and you can keep it or return it for the 12.00 back.
John

Ken300D · #10 12-08-2006, 08:18 AM

If the races are not visibly worn, you can just put in new bearings and leave the old races in place.

Ken300D

Jkid · #11 12-08-2006, 08:36 AM

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BTW how far "upstate" are you.

I'm currently just North of Albany (Ballston Lake) and I grew up in Rochester. 'Upstate', but not quite the North country. Although my brother went to Clarkson and I have family in Lowville as well, so I've spent some time up there. How about yourself? I'm guessing above the Thruway somewhere, Malone? (Maybe not that Northern).

Quote:

If the races are not visibly worn, you can just put in new bearings and leave the old races in place.

I noticed on the inner race, on the inner surface, that there was one spot where it looks to me like they welded the race closed and the weld got completely exposed somehow. Looks nasty. I'm guessing that would cause the whuuuring noise that I hear...

Jkid · #12 12-08-2006, 08:49 AM

Quote:

The use of freezing makes it far easier as well as others have mentioned.

Seeing as it's 10 degrees out this morning, I might be wise to bring the hub/rotor inside to warm it up as well

I bet it would be tough to get a warm, expanded bearing into a cold, contracted hub.

jaoneill · #13 12-08-2006, 08:52 AM

[QUOTE=Jkid;1352102]I'm currently just North of Albany (Ballston Lake) and I grew up in Rochester. 'Upstate', but not quite the North country. Although my brother went to Clarkson and I have family in Lowville as well, so I've spent some time up there. How about yourself? I'm guessing above the Thruway somewhere, Malone? (Maybe not that Northern).

We are just west of Canton, near Dekalb Jct. Work regularly takes me from the Thruway north to the Canadian border (Ogdensburg, Massena, Plattsburg). Road sign near my driveway reads "Canada 18 miles". "Upstate" is a pretty general term, most folks in the rotton apple consider anything north of the Westchester County line "Upstate".

Good luck with the bearing,
Jim

barry123400 · #14 12-08-2006, 09:38 AM

A race driver is nice. For the amount of race changes an amateur like myself does it is not worth the cost. Your brother in law perhaps or whoever would borrow it and forget to return it as well. Basically no tool rental/usage shops locally in my case. I just use something flat to drive it in square till surface is flush. Then just work different perimeter areas with a piece of brass although I guess aluminium would do just as well. The tool collection is hard enough to maintain at usable levels without too many specialised tools. You have to have some of couse. It just occured to me that I could chuck up a piece of aluminum in the lathe and turn out a driver in a few minutes. Just ten thousand under the outside circumferance of the race would probably get me by. Or do a true approximate tapered version. I also usually check the bearing play after a days use to make absolutly sure the races really bottomed out when drove. Visually or by feel you might be fooled ocassionaly. It is far less likely to occur with the tapered driver. I also usually change inner and outer at the same time if the bearing costs are reasonable. Again I am not changing a wheel bearing out very often.

MattBelliveau · #15 12-08-2006, 09:53 AM

I had no problems beating my races out by hand. I just used a prybar, with a slight "L" shape to the end from Sears. Looks like a slightly bent heavy duty screwdriver. I was amazed how easy it was!