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  #16  
Old 12-11-2006, 01:19 PM
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the hourly rate at the place is $90.

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  #17  
Old 12-11-2006, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by its_snowing View Post
the hourly rate at the place is $90.
Now theres inspiration too do your own work
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2006, 03:48 PM
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Parts are not that expensive, and the job is not really difficult, just messy, depending on how much oil leakage you have.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #19  
Old 12-11-2006, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by its_snowing View Post
the hourly rate at the place is $90.
Man! I can change out a pair of mounts, with shocks, in under 2 hours. I think I'm in the wrong profession...
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  #20  
Old 12-11-2006, 04:52 PM
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well, theres a tremendous amount of gunk down there, though i dont seem to be actively leaking or burning significant oil. i really just dont have the facilities or space (i have to park on-street) to do the job. in any event, $90/hr. seems to be the going rate for mercedes shops here in the boston area. i once took it to a non-mb mechanic that i used to use. sure enough, they charged significantly less per hour, but had to farm out the job because they didnt have the right tools, and it ended up costing me way more in the end.
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  #21  
Old 12-13-2006, 10:24 PM
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i went to the parts store, and they gave me a cap that reads, "13 lbs." does this roughly correspond to the, "120" thats written on my mercedes cap?

they had no idea what i was asking them there.
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  #22  
Old 12-13-2006, 10:28 PM
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No. The 120 cap is about 17.5psi.
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2006, 09:06 AM
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i still have a similar problem. not so much with pressure after letting it sit (the rad. cap will open with a very slight pop. but im getting warmer temps than i should when idling, sometimes up to 100 or so. my aux fan is fried, and i havent replaed it yet, but i dnot hink i should need it in boston during the winter. the temps, while driving, run anywhere from 80 to 90/95 on the highways. but as i said, when idling, even after just warming it up, or while taking a very short drive, the tmps will slowly rise until they get around 100. there isnt any more smoke/steam than should be withing acceptable range, no bubbes coming up when i run the engine with the radiator cap off, and no creamy stuff in the oil. the radiator fan is definitely spinning pretty nicely when parked, or at low rpms. and, though i just replaced the monovalve, the heat isnt so great.

if the thermostat was busted, would it be able to keep the temps low while on the road, but not while idling? i think im gonig to flush the system/ replace the thermo and see what happens, but i feel like it wont make a difference.
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Last edited by its_snowing; 12-20-2006 at 12:45 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2006, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by its_snowing View Post
my aux fan is fried, and i havent replaed it yet, but i dnot hink i should need it in boston during the winter.
The aux fan won't come on unless the a/c is operating. And even then, it won't operate until the refrigerant gets hot enough to close the switch.
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2006, 02:11 PM
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If the t-stat is stuck closed, temps would high all the time, except with a cold start. Stuck closed t-stat means hardly any to no coolant flow. Stuck open or missing t-stat means engine that runs too cool during cooler weather.

How is the water pump? If the fins on it are worn down, then there is poor coolant circulation.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #26  
Old 12-20-2006, 03:05 PM
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ah. that would make sense. the problem is intermitent, but it seems logical that lower coolant flow might equal moderate heat (warm, but not HOT), and also higher engine temps when idling. there have been a couple of occasions where its really spiked up to 110/115, but other than that just the intermittent warm up when not moving.
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2006, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by its_snowing View Post
ah. that would make sense. the problem is intermitent, but it seems logical that lower coolant flow might equal moderate heat (warm, but not HOT), and also higher engine temps when idling. there have been a couple of occasions where its really spiked up to 110/115, but other than that just the intermittent warm up when not moving.
It sounds like an errant air pocket that is not making it to the top of the system, just moving from place to place. Has the system been "burped"?

When was the last time the WP was changed? You have to remove the WP to check it's condition.

It actually can get hot from lower coolant flow, as the heat stays trapped longer, while more heat is added to the mix. Coolant is only as effective it's ability to transfer heat to the outside world via the radiator.

A poor operating heater usually means poor flow to the heater core. This can be indicated by low coolant level. Poor circulation from a bad WP, blockage in the system, or an air pocket can cause this.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2006, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Stuck closed t-stat means hardly any to no coolant flow.
Even with a bypass-type thermostat?
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  #29  
Old 12-20-2006, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Even with a bypass-type thermostat?
Yep. A bypass t-stat stuck closed does not allow full coolant flow. It should allow trapped air out though, providing it is above where the trapped air comes from.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #30  
Old 12-20-2006, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Yep. A bypass t-stat stuck closed does not allow full coolant flow.
When you say "stuck closed," which valve are you referring to?

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