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#16
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the hourly rate at the place is $90.
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com |
#17
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Now theres inspiration too do your own work
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#18
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Parts are not that expensive, and the job is not really difficult, just messy, depending on how much oil leakage you have.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#19
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Man! I can change out a pair of mounts, with shocks, in under 2 hours. I think I'm in the wrong profession...
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1989 300E 144K |
#20
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well, theres a tremendous amount of gunk down there, though i dont seem to be actively leaking or burning significant oil. i really just dont have the facilities or space (i have to park on-street) to do the job. in any event, $90/hr. seems to be the going rate for mercedes shops here in the boston area. i once took it to a non-mb mechanic that i used to use. sure enough, they charged significantly less per hour, but had to farm out the job because they didnt have the right tools, and it ended up costing me way more in the end.
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com |
#21
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i went to the parts store, and they gave me a cap that reads, "13 lbs." does this roughly correspond to the, "120" thats written on my mercedes cap?
they had no idea what i was asking them there.
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com |
#22
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No. The 120 cap is about 17.5psi.
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#23
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i still have a similar problem. not so much with pressure after letting it sit (the rad. cap will open with a very slight pop. but im getting warmer temps than i should when idling, sometimes up to 100 or so. my aux fan is fried, and i havent replaed it yet, but i dnot hink i should need it in boston during the winter. the temps, while driving, run anywhere from 80 to 90/95 on the highways. but as i said, when idling, even after just warming it up, or while taking a very short drive, the tmps will slowly rise until they get around 100. there isnt any more smoke/steam than should be withing acceptable range, no bubbes coming up when i run the engine with the radiator cap off, and no creamy stuff in the oil. the radiator fan is definitely spinning pretty nicely when parked, or at low rpms. and, though i just replaced the monovalve, the heat isnt so great.
if the thermostat was busted, would it be able to keep the temps low while on the road, but not while idling? i think im gonig to flush the system/ replace the thermo and see what happens, but i feel like it wont make a difference.
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com Last edited by its_snowing; 12-20-2006 at 12:45 PM. |
#24
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The aux fan won't come on unless the a/c is operating. And even then, it won't operate until the refrigerant gets hot enough to close the switch.
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#25
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If the t-stat is stuck closed, temps would high all the time, except with a cold start. Stuck closed t-stat means hardly any to no coolant flow. Stuck open or missing t-stat means engine that runs too cool during cooler weather.
How is the water pump? If the fins on it are worn down, then there is poor coolant circulation.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#26
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ah. that would make sense. the problem is intermitent, but it seems logical that lower coolant flow might equal moderate heat (warm, but not HOT), and also higher engine temps when idling. there have been a couple of occasions where its really spiked up to 110/115, but other than that just the intermittent warm up when not moving.
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com |
#27
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Quote:
When was the last time the WP was changed? You have to remove the WP to check it's condition. It actually can get hot from lower coolant flow, as the heat stays trapped longer, while more heat is added to the mix. Coolant is only as effective it's ability to transfer heat to the outside world via the radiator. A poor operating heater usually means poor flow to the heater core. This can be indicated by low coolant level. Poor circulation from a bad WP, blockage in the system, or an air pocket can cause this.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#28
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Even with a bypass-type thermostat?
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#29
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Yep. A bypass t-stat stuck closed does not allow full coolant flow. It should allow trapped air out though, providing it is above where the trapped air comes from.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#30
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When you say "stuck closed," which valve are you referring to?
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