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  #1  
Old 12-10-2006, 09:57 PM
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Question Car Not Powering Up

My 300SD - 1982 has a problem that is challenging me in figure it out.
Here is the symptom:Turning the ignition key to the glow position, only the "battery charge" light on the dash board lits.Turning the key to start position, the starter not even turn.Returning the key back to off position and removing it from tumbler, the "battery charge" light remain on and in the fuse box a relay also remain on.I took the relay from it base and place back after 3minutes but it still energized even with the key out of the tumbler.I repeat those steps few times and there was the same happen.If I try for several times the same steps,there is a change of be possible have all lights on in the dash board and start the engine.Turning the engine off and trying to restart again, the problem will repeat.
I am wondering about the Ignition Tumbler assemble or some other device that is interfering in the system.
Before buy or change this or that part, I would like to have your technical help in what could be the reason for this problem.
I will realy appreciate your feedback.
Sincerely thanks.

Nyck

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  #2  
Old 12-11-2006, 01:18 PM
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Probably an internal short within the alternator.
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2006, 01:39 PM
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Thanks.
I will take a look on it.
Only desconnecting the alternator cables will be enogh?
From where should I start this try out?
Nyck
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:56 PM
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I have this exact issue with my 1981 300D Turbo. What is the procedure for checking the alternator? (Also, this alternator was in good working order when I removed it from my parts car)
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2007, 07:08 PM
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Quick partial alternator test...

With a digital voltmeter check the battery voltage on the batt terminals with the car cut off.....should be a little above 12 volts...(example ...12.45 volts)

Start the car and measure the battery voltage again with the engine running.....Should be at least 13.8 volts....

This is just a quick partial test to see if the Alternator is mostly working....
A more complete test (voltage and current plus battery test) can be done at any of the major parts stores for free usually.....hope this helps...
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2007, 07:24 PM
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Thanks for that reply...but my main issue is I cannot start the car...

No preglow, but I hear the relay. Headlights, interior lights, radio all work. NOTHING from the starter at all when I turn the ignition.

After trying to start, the battery light will not go off even when the key is removed. Ideas?
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2007, 08:59 PM
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No Start

First... make sure all your fuses are ok...

Second...Move the gear selector back and forth in case the Park/Neutral lockout switch is having mechanical /contact trouble....

Third....See if you have voltage appear on the Neutral switch or starter relay when you turn key to crank position....trace forward or backward from this point ...

You need a voltmeter or test light....

The voltage for the starter is from the battery > headlight switch terminal tie point >
Ignition key switch > neutral lockout switch > Starter relay/solenoid energize terminal.....The current follows this path when starting the car.....
If you get proper voltage to the starter relay ....the starter will turn if it is ok....

Clean and tighten all electrical connections involved if possible...
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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2007, 02:14 PM
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I still have the same problem but after check many different points as suggested, I found out that the solenoid at the starter is not working properly and also the carbon brushes of the starter need to be changed.
Another test that I did to make sure that the problem was not from other connection point, with engine hood open, using a remote start or a piece of wire, I jumped terminals 30 and 50 on the connection box into the engine compartment.It's a quick test.
In any Mercedes book you will find where is located terminals 30 and 50.
About the Alternator the suggested test is the same given on the previous reply. I did the same way and it works OK. Most auto parts can test it for free.
There is a need of a bench test when alternator is removed from car.
Hope it helps you.
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Last edited by nyko46; 01-12-2007 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Adding more info.
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2007, 02:24 PM
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Also, if the bat is low it will not crank. Try jumping it.
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  #10  
Old 01-14-2007, 06:29 PM
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Found and fixed the problem with my car...the ground strap from the transmission housing to the chassis had corroded apart. Replaced it and the car fired right up.
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  #11  
Old 01-14-2007, 06:40 PM
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Ground Strap....

Good Job!!.......I put new ground straps all over mine...even grounded things twice...!...get one on the alternator housing...that really helps....

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(Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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