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  #1  
Old 12-15-2006, 11:17 AM
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? about ALDA removal in a 617 see pic

Ok, so I need to get this thing out. Two questions:
1. Do I have to remove that white plastic round thing so the alda has room to turn? - see pic
2. How do you fit channel locks and a wrench under there?

Thanks.

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? about ALDA removal in a 617 see pic-alda.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2006, 11:23 AM
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Jim, please make sure you post results after you complete this. I'm very interested. Thanks!
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2006, 11:26 AM
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sure...

IF I can do it!! Still need some help figuring it out...
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:27 AM
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There's a spud nut under the ALDA that holds the ALDA onto the IP sort of like a compression nut. I think it's a 25mm. Come in from the side, under the ALDA with an open-end and turn the nut CCW (looking down). All you need to do with the ALDA body is keep it from turning when you turn the nut. 1/2 turn of the nut could do it, then it will be handy and you can spin it with your fingers.

See #3 in this thread.
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Last edited by R Leo; 12-15-2006 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo View Post
There's a spud nut under the ALDA that holds the ALDA onto the IP sort of like a compression nut. I think it's a 24mm. Come in from the side, under the ALDA with an open-end and turn the nut CCW (looking down). All you need to do with the ALDA body is keep it from turning when you turn the nut. 1/2 turn of the nut could do it, then it will be handy and you can spin it with your fingers.
I think you will want to turn the nut CW. After you get it loose you can hold the nut and turn the ALDA CCW by hand to remove it.
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil View Post
I think you will want to turn the nut CW. After you get it loose you can hold the nut and turn the ALDA CCW by hand to remove it.
Maybe so, now I cannot remember if the nut is on the aneroid or the IP.
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by R Leo View Post
Maybe so, now I cannot remember if the nut is on the aneroid or the IP.
The nut is attached to the IP and screws onto the bottom of the ALDA. I wish I was at home, I have a series of pictures that I took of my ALDA when I removed it and took it apart.
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Old 12-15-2006, 12:22 PM
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Here's photos and a little DIY for repair that I used:http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/alda/
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2006, 12:40 PM
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from what I understand...

The large nut on top of the IP is supposed to turn CW while the nut on the alda turns ccw - lefty loosey - off of the IP. Which brings me back to my original question. I don't think the alda will make the turn around that pastic white round thing seen in the picture I attached. Has anyone encountered this? Will it make the turn? How do you get that thing off? And what is that thing anyway? Oh, and what do you use to block the boost line that is now dangling from the shutoff valve?
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Old 12-15-2006, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimZ View Post
The large nut on top of the IP is supposed to turn CW while the nut on the alda turns ccw - lefty loosey - off of the IP. Which brings me back to my original question. I don't think the alda will make the turn around that pastic white round thing seen in the picture I attached. Has anyone encountered this? Will it make the turn? How do you get that thing off? And what is that thing anyway? Oh, and what do you use to block the boost line that is now dangling from the shutoff valve?
Once the nut is free, you should be able to turn it until the ALDA is loose.
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Old 12-15-2006, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimZ View Post
The large nut on top of the IP is supposed to turn CW while the nut on the alda turns ccw - lefty loosey - off of the IP. Which brings me back to my original question. I don't think the alda will make the turn around that pastic white round thing seen in the picture I attached. Has anyone encountered this? Will it make the turn? How do you get that thing off? And what is that thing anyway? Oh, and what do you use to block the boost line that is now dangling from the shutoff valve?
Actually, (note in the photos if the link I provided) the nut on the top of the IP does all of the turning, not the alda itself.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2006, 01:01 PM
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I used a 1 1/8th wrench on the bottom nut and held the ADLA with a big pair of plyers. i kept the vavle from spining because it was going to hit the vaccum valve. it only took 10 min and the ADLA was off and i didn't hit the plastic vaccum valve you show in your picture.
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2006, 01:20 PM
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So hold the the alda and turn the bottom nut cw. No sweat. I'm thinking I'll need a few cans of WD40 for this one.

So the final question that needs to be answered is, what do you block the boost line to the shutoff valve with? Do you take the line off at the shutoff valve or let it hang there and stuff a BB or something in to block it off?
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Old 12-15-2006, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
Here's photos and a little DIY for repair that I used:http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/alda/
Thats the one I was thinking of but I thought it was from dieselgiant. Glad you new where to find it.
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Old 12-15-2006, 02:16 PM
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I ditched the shutoff vavle (its with my ADLA in my closet for safe keeping). I have a brass T from the Home Depot in the line already because i'm useing the line from the banjo bolt to feed pressure to my boost gauge. so i unscrewed the nipple i had installed in the T to feed the ADLA and installed a plug. that way if i ever wanna go pack the T is still installed.

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Last edited by SirNik84; 12-15-2006 at 02:24 PM.
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