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  #16  
Old 12-16-2006, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidh View Post
i'd go for the rack being stuck in the shut off position too. even a bad pump will pump a little bit or a dribble or so. . . . .
Sure could be, just pull the vacuum line off the shut off switch on the IP, (brown line on the 123s) before trying to fire up. It frustrating, lots of us have been there
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2006, 08:20 PM
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sOMEONE ELSE WROTE"

"If fuel is comming out of bleed on filter, you might check to see if fuel will come out of #1 element.
Turn engine to TDC #1.....remove injection lines....remove #1 element...(watch how element parts come out for reassembly..) ..pump primer pump....... fuel should weep from element socket on pump...if not...rack is stuck closed. "

Okay, I think we might be onto something here. But can someone explain what this writer means by the 'element'? I am assumeing they mean take the nipple of of the actual IP where fuel comes out on its path to the injector.

I did take the vacuum line off the rear of the IP and you can actually here it release some of the vacuum it has on the line. So if I read correctly this vac line causes the injector pump to stop pumping fuel and hence would stop it from pumping. Yes, this definetly sounds like a possibility!

And for Brians question, yes I have had the padal to the floor, or atleat a screwdriver jammed between the valve cover and the IP holding linkage all the way open where it would be at floored.

So if someone could explain to what is meant by 'element' it would really help. Also is it possible to remove the rear of the IP, the shut off capsule while the IP is on the vehicle.

I really feel that this is the start of the problem and will examine it next time I work on the car.

Thanks,
Ian
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  #18  
Old 12-18-2006, 11:35 PM
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What is meant by "element" is, pull off the injector line, then you have what is called a "delivery valve" which is the entire assy that sticks out of the top of the IP for each injector, and is fastened in place on the pump with a hold down clamp. After you remove the line, remove the top nut on the delivery valve, there will be a springloaded plunger under it which creates the popping point for the pump, pay attention to the order of those parts for reassembly. DO NOT under any circumstances, undo the flat clamp and rotate/remove the delivery assembly from the pump body. This will ruin the adjustments and require the pump to be recalibrated. Now, with the plunger assy out of #1 and the engine positioned correctly to line up the internal pump parts, you should have a path to the port of the delivery valve when you operate the hand pump, and fuel should come out, not necessarily spew out, but dripping is sufficient.
With the key in the off position you should have some vacuum to the shut off (as long as there is vacuum present in the car still) with the key on, the line should have no vacuum in it, if it does than the ignition switch is likely the culprit, or someone has replumbed it wrong in the past.

"IF" it does turn out you ultimately have an IP problem, I do have one pulled from my 80 that tossed a rod, and might work for you, so don't panic on expenses just yet. As far as timing goes, its a little intimidating at first, but there are lots of threads on it here, lots of people who've done it, and I found it to be relatively easy to do (having never touched one before).
-Chris 80 240D w/617 engine
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