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#1
12-18-2006, 12:48 PM
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ran hot now appears to need a valve job
1986 MB 300 SDL 280K, now has low compression after dry and wet leak down and rough idle. #5 and #6 show low 200/250 compression. So, appears to be a valve job. No white smoke but more blue smoke than normal. Is this a dIY with basic tools? I have pulled engines and restored cars. Also need a parts machine shop source in Denver area. thank you! What is likelyhood this may not make the engine go another 100K after this time and expense. Lots has been done to keep this car up and running with the good people at Startech in Denver. Thanks!
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#2
12-18-2006, 01:38 PM
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#14 head dies again
more than likely the over heat caused a crack in the thin casting. do a search on 603 overheat and cracked #14 head. sorry. John
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#3
12-18-2006, 01:41 PM
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Could be a badly blown head gasket as well, any other symptoms? Either way its a mute point the head needs to come off.
Send the head out to Mertric Motors, they are one of the few shops that can properly rebuild these heads. How badly was it overheated?
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
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#4
12-18-2006, 01:58 PM
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The aluminum head is not fond of an overheat. In addition to cracking between the valves and the prechamber hole, it suffers from distortion requiring a fair amount of material removal to get it flat.
As mentioned above, removal of the head will tell the tale. I second the desirability of using a know qualified shop, such as Metric Motors, for this task. Too much risk of a random shop performing very poor work.
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#5
12-18-2006, 06:32 PM
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garwood46, its true about aluminum heads in general (they tend to warp) but I am running two '87 300D's with the #14 heads, they are commonly blamed for failure when in fact the root cause was overheating or a bad head gasket.
I say bunk to the #14 head rumors! Both of mine were serviced by Metric's shop. Mine are at 260K and 270K miles and still running great (knock on wood!)  You need to have the head pressure checked first at a good machine shop (one that has done these heads before!) then if no cracks it can be resurfaced. If they have to cut very much metal they will use shims on the pre-comb chambers to meet dimensional specs (clearance to the piston crown is critical). Then they install new valve guides and seals. Metric motors is highly recommended and you can ship the head to So. Cal by Greyhound or something if you want to be assured of an A+ job. The big question that arises is what caused the engine to overheat? Could it possibly need a new radiator and water pump? Also the two-way (3 pin) fan switch on the head tends to die because it carries a huge amount of current (a design flaw if you ask an electrical engineer) and that causes the engine to run hot with A/C on. Then theres the fan clutch,after a lot of miles most of them lose the viscous oil then they spin without coupling the fan properly. A good 603 should coast along at about 85C until you drive up a steep incline then it will approach 100 or 105 C on a hot day in summer. I have to push mine hard to see anything over about 95 C. With the CO mountains and the thin air that comes with elevation you need every bit of the cooling system to be in perfect condition. I put an inquiry to a Bosch shop in Arvada as to who they recommend for a machine shop (probably in Denver). If they respond I'll post the reply here. Good luck with fixing her up, its not something that is impossible for a DIY if you get together the right tools and a shop manual. Don't start to remove the cam until you follow the specific factory procedure otherwise the cam will snap. It sdescribed in the forunm somewhere but I use the manual and like the paper manual, not the CD's people are selling on eBay (illegal copies mostly). An RIV timing device would be useful. You may find what you need to borrow or rent from Shopforum members.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#6
12-18-2006, 10:21 PM
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if you are near lafayette indiana i would recommend my favorite machinist.
if not i endorse metric motors as well. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.  [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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#7
12-18-2006, 10:31 PM
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Startech is good.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#8
12-18-2006, 10:34 PM
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I'm up in Michigan, might send to your mechanic if he's good with heads, thinking it would make a good winter project to refresh the top-end and IP.
Who is he? Quote:
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 Gone to the dark side - Jeff
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