Let me start by saying this is a great forum! Lots of activety and lots of useful, insightful and well detailed responses!! Regular responders should pat themselves on the back for being so helpful!!!

I have two Mercedes 240d's. One that I use on a regular basis and one that I have purchased recently. I am haveing a problem getting the one I purchased recently to start, it was bought not running and the former owner knew nothing of the cars history (left in a storage lot). This is a 1979 model 240d.

I am haveing a problem getting the injector pump primed. I have pumped the hand primer untill I got a blister on my hand. I can get it primed to the point where I here the expected noise comeing from it to indicate that it is doing its job. I also get fuel at the bolt on top of the fuel filter, so I am assuming that everything is fine up to the injector pump itself.

After priming with the hand pump, and with the injector feed lines (the metal ones going directly to the injectors) cracked open, I have cranked this car untill the battery is dead a couple of times, but with no luck. I am not getting anything coming out of the injector pump itself.

Is there another way to prime the injector pump or a way to test it without any pressure gauges. My assumption would be that if the IP was working, I would be getting something comeing out at the injector feed lines. I am begining to think that the injector pump itself is bad, but I am not jumping to any conclusions that might cost me too much money.

I have gone through the system and the fuel supply up to the pump seems to sufficient. Just can't get anything out the otherside of the pump even after repeated attempts and cranking it to the point I the point where I thought I might melt the starter. I am not in a position where I could pull this car and wouldn't do that to an automatic transmission anyway (even though I have been told it is possible to pull start an automatic.)

Any help would be mostly appreciated. I also have a 1973 240D (not the aforementioned) that I might be willing to piece out if anyone near Western North Carolina is looking for parts. The transmission is bad and the altenator is already gone, but the body is nice/straight.

Thanks!

And again, GREAT FORUM!!!! GREAT FEEDBACK!!!! Santa needs to stuff regular users stockings with lots of MB goodies!

Chances are , there is nothing wrong with the IP, so put away your wallet How are the glow plugs. The new style "fast" ones would defently help starting if you dont already have them. It takes a good 12 seconds of cranking (at 100 rpm) for fuel to get up to the injectors. The problem is after allot of cranking the cylinder walls get washed down with fuel and your compression gets reduced. I would reconsider the tow start if you have that option.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Tow starting is not an option, I am by myself and do not have anyone to help me, this car is not in the same town as where I live.

I have pulled the glowplugs and ran an ohm test on them and they seem to be fine, not great but should get it started. But the plugs come out dry as a bone.

I just can't understand why after repeatedly cranking the engine I am not getting even a drop of deisel through the injector pump. I am gonna pull the plugs and try cranking it with out the compression working against me and see if the extra rpm's helps to prime the pump. Has anyone ever known an IP to go bad from sitting?

Does anyone know or can recommend a deisel mechanic in the Greensboro, NC area. Shade-tree or shop is fine.

Thanks for the quick feedback, Stevo!

The plungers in the pump can get stuck, though it doesn't happen often in diesels.

If you give each cyl a few squrts of oil through the GP hole that will give you some compression back.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I have a similar problem with a 74 240D. Here is the thread in case you have not read it yet. It might give you some ideas...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=169319

With the help of this forum we've traced the problem down to a stuck plunger and no oil in the IP. Still working on getting it unstuck and started.

As I understand it, you are not getting any flow from the hard lines to the Injectors when cranking the car??

Is the camshaft turning when you crank the car?? Look into the oil fill opening, and crank.....if the camshaft isn't turning, neither is the Injection Pump.....and you have a Timing Chain problem....

If the camshaft is turning....you may have a couple of stuck plungers in the Injection Pump......in the car's past if it was laid up with a bit of water in the fuel.....this is very possible......

or you may have some stuck delivery valves......

I am not a very big fan of Ether (starting fluid)....but in this case.....give the air cleaner a shot of Ether......and crank.....it should fire.....hold the pedal to the metal......let it gasp and choke, shake and rattle......but do your best to keep it running......if you can get it to start, no matter how rough.....the vibrations of the running engine may help shake the stuck parts within the IP lose......

If the ether works......and the car will continue to run, no matter how rough.....this may be the time to run a Diesel Purge.....would help in clearing any trash within the IP......

A couple of squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil into the Glow Plug holes will help with cylinder lubrication and assist in improving compression.....

It's a diesel...it oughta run.....

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

I agree with ShoreBilly except I would use WD-40 instead of starting fluid. WD-40 is 90% kerosene which is just diesel fuel in a spray can. It won't hurt anything in the engine and will help lubricate the valves and such on its way in. I have used it since the GM diesels and if it will start one of them, it will start anything.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Welcome to the forum.

You've done an admirable job in covering all your bases.

What is preventing this engine from starting is a lack of fuel. Glow plugs, cranking without glow plugs, towing the vehicle, using WD40, etc. won't fix the problem until you get fuel out of those hard lines.

If it starts on WD-40, it probably won't run unless fuel magically appears at the injectors due to the increased engine speed.

The camshaft is definitely turning, otherwise the pistons would hit the valves on the first revolution. The only way such a scenario makes any sense is if the camshaft and timing chain are missing from the engine..........highly unlikely scenario.

Before condemning the injection pump, it's time to check to see if the hand pump is doing it's job. First, pull the secondary filter and check to see if it's chock full.........right to the top.

If so, then pull the line to the IP and check that you've got fuel in that line.

You've got to positively determine that the IP is receiving fuel........right now, you're just concluding that it gets fuel due to the multiple uses of the primer pump.

Thanks for all the replies!! And thanks to the Ex-Marine, for time served!

Let me see if I can answer everyones questions.

Yes, I am getting fuel to the secondary filter and through the filter right up to the IP. I loosened the bolt on the IP and hand pumped it, fuel came out at the intake of the IP. So, filter and hand pump don't seem to be the problem.

The camshaft is turning. The timing chain is there and motor appears to have good compression (although not checked with a guage).

I have shot this thing with ether (starting fluid) and it pops and spits out smoke, but still no fuel comeing through the IP. I have also dumped some deisel straight down the intake and let it get into the cylinders, same reaction as when I shoot it with ether, pops and coughs but doesn't fire up and still nothing through the IP.

I really think its time to pull the IP and have it rebuilt, but I know getting it retimed is beyond my knowledge and budget. The fuel that was in the car didn't seem to have any water anywhere, not in the bottom of the filters. And it did have fuel right up to the injectors, so I am assumeing that the IP sat with deisel in it, hence was well lubed for its time in storage.

I just can't get the IP to do its job and move fuel from its intake to the injectors? Is it possible for an IP to stop working because it has air in it. I thought the IP would purge itself of any possible air in the system, I know it won't start with air in there (because of lack of pressure on the injectors) but it should still move the fuel to the injectors. Right?

I looked at the other thread that was posted here, from Paul46, couldn't find anything pertinent.

Is there a way to test the plungers on the IP with it still on the car?

Any and all feedback GREATLY appreciated. Theres always a cold one in the fridge and a couch to crash on for EVERYONE on these boards!!!

It's definitely possible. There were some members who had to crank nearly forever at crank speed to get fuel at the hard lines.

If this is your situation, you really ought to reconsider your position regarding towing it. The much higher engine speed available and the resulting high IP speed may allow the pump to overcome the air within..........if that's the issue.

You can tow start a M/B automatic if you get it up to 30 mph and drop it into drive. Make sure you glow it prior to engaging drive. It may not fire right off and need to be towed for 30 seconds or so.......but........if you're lucky, it will purge itself of air fairly quickly.

Have you checked to see if there is any vacuum getting to the shut off capsule on the back of the pump? There should be none.

It's a round capsule on rear of pump which closes the rack and shuts off fuel when you turn off the engine with the key.
It has a vac' line running to it...had lots of these turning up that just had oil changes and owner complains engine will not turn off....I know this is not your problem, but bare with me....

This can also turn into a problem where the rack is not moving foreward to deliver fuel too.
Have found two, over the years, where the rack was jammed in the 'stop' position by the capsule.

If fuel is comming out of bleed on filter, you might check to see if fuel will come out of #1 element.

Turn engine to TDC #1.....remove injection lines....remove #1 element...(watch how element parts come out for reassembly..) ..pump primer pump....... fuel should weep from element socket on pump...if not...rack is stuck closed.






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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

In conjunction with DK's comments, please additionally provide info on whether you cranked the engine with your foot mashed to the floor?

If the rack is closed to the idle position, it will definitely take forever to get any air out of the IP. You need the rack fully open to accomplish this task.

I'd try this again, if you have not done it, before doing any tow starts as mentioned above.

I agree, sometimes its just a bugger to get that fuel through and IP and folks here dont want too see you spend a bunch of $ and you still have the same problem. I had a 240D that I could never get going after working on the fuel system, had to be towed every time, then it was fine. Did you try some lub oil (maybe mixed with a little ATF) in the GP holes, if not do that before towing.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

i'd go for the rack being stuck in the shut off position too. even a bad pump will pump a little bit or a dribble or so. . . . .

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david h
83 300D Alabama Beauty (Son's)
83 300D West Coast Rust Free that been abused